This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Hard Starting: 09 FE570

Joined Feb 2010
27 Posts | 0+
Ok guys, I need some help here. My ’09 FE570 is having a hard time starting: it takes about 5-7 seconds of cranking for the bike to finally start up and run. The big runs fantastic otherwise. I took the bike to the dealer, who got me a new computer flashed with the competition map (along with the air filter screen in the TSB). He also checked the valve clearances to rule that out. They were all within spec, on the loose side of spec actually. When I went to pick up the bike last weekend, there was no improvement in the hard starting. The battery was putting out 12.8-12.9 volts. The dealer suggested that maybe my battery was too weak, so I put the battery on the tender for the past couple days. When I took it off today, it had 13.2 volts. I installed it and was able to start the bike within 1-2 seconds of cranking. I let it run for a couple minutes, then shut it off, let it sit for a minute, and then tried starting it again. This 2nd time it was back to the delayed starting. I then checked the voltage and got 13.1 with no load, and when cranking it showed 10.7 volts at worst. From what I’ve read, this seems to indicate that the battery is fine.

I’m wondering what to check next? I already went over all the connections under the seat to ensure nothing was loose, including the fuel pump line by the air filter. I also double checked the fuel line connection under the tank on the left side. The dealer suggested maybe doing a leak-down test next if the battery checked out okay. What else could it be? Bad starter, bad starter relay, clogged fuel filter or injector??

There are a couple other things I should mention. The hard starting seems to occur whether I’m starting a cold engine, or if it’s already hot (like riding trail for 20 minutes hot). However, if I shut off the motor and then re-start it within say 5-30 seconds, it will usually start up without hesitation. If I wait more than a minute, then it’s hard to start again. The other thing I noticed is if I crank the starter like 5-7 seconds, let off the starter for a second, and then hit the starter button immediately again, then bike will usually start up quickly during this 2nd attempt.

EDIT 04-01-10: I just realized something over the past few days. If I let the bike sit overnight, when I start it for the 1st time the next day, it starts up immediately (with 2 seconds). However, if I let the bike cool down for even a couple hours (after just idling for a minute), the hard-starting is still present.
 
My bike does something similar but not quite as bad as yours. And mine usually starts well when cold, in fact one time I bumped up against the starter button after it had been sitting for a couple of weeks and it started instantly. I keep my battery on a tender most of the time, but, have not checked the voltage when it is off of it.

Do you use the cold start knob when you try to start it?

What kind of fuel/octane are you using?

The "battery tender" brand of battery maintainers has a peaking cycle that raises and lowers the voltage as it is charging the battery. This will make the fuel pump cycle at least once during the initial charging when the green light is blinking.

Of note, when the bike is running, the voltage is around 14.7 volts when it first starts up.

A suggestion that seems to have helped on my hot starting. I bump the start button just enough to make the FI light come on and make the fuel pump cycle. Then when I go to start it I only crank it over about 5 revs and then stop, then hit it again. And like you, it seems to start quicker once I have done that.

I too have the comp map in my bike. Yours should have come with it if you live in the states as the bikes were not EPA legal so they came with the comp map. Which renders the O2 or lambda sensor in operative. I am currently in the process of finding a plug for the bung and am going to remove the lamda sensor, as I have been told by the "company" that it is not used anymore. Since the lambda has a heating element in it, I am wondering if this heating element cycles on each time the motor is turned off for a period of time then is restarted.

Finally, how many hours are on your bike? And have you tried changing the plug?

The next thing I was thinking of was taking the throttle body off and giving it a good cleaning to see if that helps.
 
Thanks for the prompt replies!

DaleEO, my bike has 30 hrs. I bought it 4 weeks ago as a "new" factory demo, and has had trouble starting since I picked it up. I always run 93 octane, but I don't know what the fuel quality was before (I have only put 55 miles on the bike so far). I have tried using the cold start knob, and it does help a little: it mainly seems to speed up the idle/cranking speed. I removed the battery before I put it on the tender. I took the battery out since I wanted to go over the wiring in that region anyways, to make sure all the connections were tight. I haven't changed the plug yet, but I'm thinking I should. What do I need to remove to get to it?

Viking, what parts did you buy to fix the clogged filter? I see Husaberg makes a "filter kit"- part number 81207090000- but the damn thing costs $100+. Can I just buy the filter separately? Do I need any seals or o-rings?
 
Right on,

Try dropping to 91 octane fuel and see what that does. 91 octane (r+m/2) is all that is required for this bike.

The filter "should" be fine at 30 hours, and dropping to 91 octane is a lot cheaper than that filter kit!

What altitude do you live at?

If the bike only has 30hours on it, I would say the plug should be fine, however, there have been problems with other folks bikes and at least one or two were traced to a crack in the plug porcelain. Changing the plug is a bit tight for sure, use the plug wrench that came with the bike and just get it loose then remove the plug wrench and use your fingers to remove it the rest of the way, or else the plug wrench will get two blocked between the plug and the hoses.
 
DaleEO
Which renders the O2 or lambda sensor in operative. I am currently in the process of finding a plug for the bung and am going to remove the lamda sensor, as I have been told by the "company" that it is not used anymore. Since the lambda has a heating element in it, I am wondering if this heating element cycles on each time the motor is turned off for a period of time then is restarted
I am wondering about lamda function my self, there was post in a other forum he had a plugged injector and a
code for lean mixture this was on a NA. 09 570 so the only way for the ecu to recognise this is from O2 sensor
so therefor ecu must use O2 to some extent that brings the next question does ecu use O2 as a monotoring function for a lean or rich condition or does ecu use the O2 in a fuel corrective manor I am not sure what to beileve
the factory setting tool has a data parameter for fuel trim that and the burn in prosedure makes me think that
O2 is used in fuel corrective manor to a degree
the heating element on the O2 is to bring O2 sensing element up to temp and keep at a stable temp for accurate
sensor output

OhioPT
I bought a injector from the dealer it came with O rings needed for replacement, strainer was cleaned it wasnt that dirty, fuelfilter bought from Ducati dealer see topic http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=12235 clamps for the filter can be bought from dealer, audi/vw use the same clamp,
then a fuel filter from old beetle bug in the tank vent hose to keep dirt out
I am going to make valve so the tank asperates thruogh air filter housing without the possibity for fuel being dumped into aircleaner and not pressuraise tank but for now that beetle bug filter is guineapig to see how much dirt is getting in

later VIKING
 
Viking,

As I understand it, the competition map, or closed course map does not use the 02 sensor and relies solely on the other sensors to run a pre-established map, with corrections based on the MAP, AIR TEMP, and Engine Temp. And therefore does not use the varying resistance values to change A/F ratio. This information came straight to me from Husaberg North America.

I looked through all the fault codes in the repair manual and cannot find one you describe. There is a fault code for a faulty injector, and another that concerns the heating element and open circuit on the lambda sensor itself.

The 2010 bikes do not come with lambda sensors on them, as the factory was able to achieve the Euro II emission reg's with out the lambda, and therefore the EPA reg's in this country as well.

Hope this helps,

Dale
 
Well my bike does the same as you guys.

Its got 50 something hours on it. 2000 something klms 09 fe450

Starts fine when cold but once It gets hot and I switch it off for a bit and then try start it when hot it will not start unless I give it a bit of throttle.

If I just hit the start enough for the pump to cycle and then start it it starts fine.

I ride with other guys with similar hours, 09 450 and 570's and they don't have a problem at all.

Seems to be just certain bikes.

I dont think we should have to go to all the effort that you guys are going to so our NEW bikes! can start.

It really seems intermittent between peoples bikes and not across the board

Got the new comp mapping on it but have not had a chance to find out if it makes a difference or not.

Either way its a great bike
 
Yes my FE570 is hard to start sometimes when warm/hot, and mine is a 2010 model (It does not have the O2 sensor). It does always start though, no matter where I am. It just sometimes starts first hit of the button, and sometimes only after 5~10seconds. It feels like the starter just doesn’t seem to have the speed required, it seems slow.

I have not tried Dale’s trick of a quick hit of the starter to get the fuel pump going and then try to start it. I am always in a panic on the side of a steep hill trying to keep up with my mates or I am just not expecting it to “not start”. I find it is an art just trying to find neutral before I start it. I will definitely try Dales trick next ride.
 
Yeah, I read those threads about the faulty plugs. I'm going to go ahead an order an extra plug just in case, and check mine out.

Viking, thanks a ton for the link to the cheaper fuel filter. Do you have a part number for the clamps? I imagine it uses those "one-use-only" clamps that you have to cut to get off (like the one on the fuel hose just aft of the air filter). Is this the type?

The more I think about this, the more it seems like a clogged fuel filter. Like I said earlier, the bike will start up easily if I do it right after shutting the bike off (like less than 10-30 seconds). Likewise, the bike will also start easily on the 2nd attempt, right after the engine cranks 5-7 second during the first attempt. Perhaps this is because the fuel line from the pump to the injector is still full and pressurized with fuel when starting in this manner. Waiting longer might allow this pressure to decrease, and then the pump has to repressurize the line by sucking fuel through the clogged filter, thus the delay in starting. Any other theories regarding this behavior? I can tell you that on my bike this behaviour is consistently reproducable.
 
Is this maybe the clamp part number: 00050153706 ?
Description: VARIABLE ONE-EAR CLAMP 15,3MM
 
Hey ohioPT, I'd use a good quality hose clamp ( stainless steel worm dive clamp ) they're a fraction of the cost and if they can hold 110 psi on my air hose they are more thant fit enough for the filter application.

*edit* nominal system pressure is 48 - 53 psi.
 
Cool, thanks.

Do I need to replace any seals or o-rings when re-installing the fuel pump assembly into the tank?
 
Afaik not really, had mine out twice now and as long as you don't damage the o ring on the regulator or the pump holder or over tighten the screws all should be well. There is also available a pump screen from profill that replaces the stock junk screen ( with hole in to let crap in ) imho that is the first line of defense.
 
A regular hoseclamp is not ideal for the plastic hose but there these plastic hoseclamps that you tighten with
pair of pliers that would work better you can find them in hardware store
the fuel filter was never plugged up but I think there is point dirt saturation where dirt starts to migrate through
filter also keep in mind that the fuelf. filters alot fuel per hour lets say that pump volume is ½qt per min
in 1 hour riding thats 30 qt of fuel that fuelf. has to filter I had 100 hours on my bike thats 750 gal of fuel

later VIKING
 
I just realized something over the past few days. If I let the bike sit overnight, when I start it for the 1st time the next day, it starts up immediately (with 2 seconds). However, if I let the bike cool down for even a couple hours (after just idling for a minute), the hard-starting is still present. I know this isn't a battery issue, because I fully charged the battery for the 2 hours it was cooling off after a minute idle, and it still didn't start easily.

Any ideas on what would explain this specific behavior? It's very consistent, so there has to be an explanation.
 
Yeah, I'm going riding tomorrow afternoon, so I'll try to remember to film little clips of everything from 1st time cold startup and then each successive startup. Like I said, it's easy to reproduce, so I should have no problem catching it all on film.

Something else to add: yesterday I played around with some starter fluid. After the bike ran for a minute,I shut it off for 10 minutes, then removed the seat and air filter and sprayed the fluid into the air intake/throttle body. It didn't help at all. I tried a few more times, opening the throttle a little and then spraying it in before starting, but no help. However, when I did this and then opened the throttle a little while starting, it started up pretty quickly. Not sure if that means anything.
 
Okay, I'll take a stab at my own question :idea:

I'm guessing there's a check valve somewhere in the fuel line getting stuck. There are usually check valves in the lines to maintain fuel pressure. My guess is that somewhere between the pump and injector a check valve is not letting fuel return quickly enough to the tank. Perhaps as the bike sits for a long time (i.e., overnight), the fuel slowly leaks back into the tank, clearing the line. When the bike is first started, the fuel pump kicks on and pressurizes the line as it should, and not enough time passes for too much pressure to build. However, once the bike gets running, the pressure builds, and stays in the line until the fuel is allowed to drain back into the tank (which appears to take many hours on my bike).

After running and then shutting the bike off for over a minute, it will eventually start up after cranking several times, because this purges the excess fuel out of the line through the injector. Starting the bike immediately after shutting it off is fine because not enough time passes with the engine off for excessive pressure to build in the fuel line. Starting fluid doesn't help because there is already too much fuel being delivered.

What do you guys think of my theory? I guess this can all be caused by a clogged fuel filter instead of a faulty check valve. Does anyone know where the check valves are in the fuel lines? I think they are typically in the filter and/or in the fuel pump itself.
 

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions