Did a little home work and just wanted to clarify some stuff that has been mentioned in this post.
Regarding fuel pressure: At the top of the tank, where the air filter is and the output line and source line for the electrical power for the fuel pump attaches; This is the pressure regulator for the fuel system. The fuel pump always puts out an excess of fuel pressure-above what is required for the fuel system, and the regulator bleeds the excess pressure back down a return line to the fuel pump housing. This is because at different throttle openings the system requires different volumes of fuel, and so the fuel pump must always put out more fuel than is required, and the regulator maintains proper fuel rail pressure for the injector to use.
Hard Starting when hot: As mentioned in this thread, some folks have the same problem with bikes with very low hours and others do not, one guy even mentioned your (OhioPT) exact same time for delayed starting, 5-7 seconds, when hot and it has been sitting, and he has a 2010 bike.
Viking as usual has provided some great input and real world experience with his bike which. It is especially pertinent to me as his bike with 100 hours on it is very close to my bike which has 94 hours on it. So I'll be looking at replacing that internal filter. And if that doesn't solve the problem I'll be looking at changing out the injector under the suspicion that it has become clogged some how. I would like to point out that at least with my bike, while it is running it runs fantastic. Viking had some some pretty good signs that something was wrong when his bike started backfiring under decel.
It's funny that the fuel filter is not mentioned in the maintenance schedule. However, what is mentioned in the manual is for the dealer to check the fuel pressure, at 15 hours or after every race, or every 30 hours. The repair manual basically says that the fuel pressure should be at 48-54psi (3.3-3.7bar) at all load conditions. If the pressure is lower than this the shop manual says to check the following:
-Change the fuel filter
-Check the fuel line for free flow
-Replace the fuel pump
The manual also mentions to have the dealer check for fault codes in the computer at varying intervals, the first ones are pretty short but it looks like every 30 hours or so you should have the computer checked for fault codes. I think when HBG N/A reflashed my ECU at the end of the 6 hours of Glen Helen he would have seen any fault codes, and when we were at FR 3 he checked and there were not any fault codes then either.
So, IMHO, since you just bought the bike and it was a demo, perhaps you could get your dealer to check the above mentioned items before you go spending: $105 for the filter set, and $137 for the injector. Granted these prices are full retail, but, still even with 10 or 15% off it's a lot of bread to just be throwing parts at at problem. Viking took a very methodical approach to the problem and found that his injector had some debris in it, tried to have it cleaned but that didn't work so he had to pop for a new injector. And to Viking's point, the fuel is constantly being circulated in the tank, so all of the fuel get's filtered several times while it is burning off, so it would be a good idea to replace the internal fuel filter on a regular basis. Especially since he has found the replacement filter available through Ducati.
While this thread has me thinking about checking that internal filter and all, at the end of the day, I really don't have a problem with how my bike starts. It starts immediately if I stall it and that IS important to me. It also starts very quickly when hot if it doesn't sit more than a couple minutes which is important to me for my dead engine desert racing starts. When I drop the bike and the roll over sensor kills the motor, I pick it up and hit the button and it starts immediately.
When it's hot and I have stopped for a while to talk or take in the scenery, I use this method: I always just bump the starter to have the fuel pump cycle, then I hit the button. (Heck I do the same thing in my vehicles, I turn the key and wait for the fuel pump to run for a bit before turning the key.) I then hit the button, if it doesn't start in the first few revolutions of the motor, like 3 to 5, I let off the button for a few seconds, and then hit the button again. A lot of times if you just let the motor turn over 3 times and let go of the button it lights.
Do I find this a bit annoying when compared to my 04 550 which started instantly on the button after sitting? Yes a bit, but my 570 runs way better than the 550 overall. So it's some thing that I am prepared to live with and just ride my bike. But, I do think I will be taking my bike over to my dealer and have him at least check the fuel pressure.
You might also think about making sure your fuel cans are clean, and go to the paint store and pick up some of those filters they use for straining paint, they are cone shaped and drop right into the throat of your gas can. So when you are filling your can at the local station you can run that fuel through a filter as it goes into your can. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
So hey, you didn't mention the altitude at which you ride, and whether or not you tried dropping to 91 octane fuel.
By the way according to Chem Helps' Chris Real, the best pump fuel on the market today is Chevron with the additive Techron. I recently even ran some techron injector cleaner mixed according to the directions, through my bike, I think I ran about 10 gallons through it. I can't say that I noticed any difference in my bike yet as the first batch I was running was a lot of stop and go, and the second batch I was doing the 6 hour and did not have the opportunity to test the let it sit for a while effect, but have noticed a pretty big improvement in idle quality in my friends cars that I have worked on.