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Hard E-Starting - bad adjustment of auto-decomp

Joined Aug 2004
35 Posts | 0+
Minneapolis, MN USA
I just bought a used 2005 FE450E; only 39 hours. It had the, now standard, starting issues. I am not mechanically gifted. (I learned everything from working on my 03 FE400 and using this site. Taffy, thanks for the Doc.)

I think what I just experienced may be of interest to new Husaberg owners with lesser amounts of skill. I checked the doc, went step by step and waded through the copious amounts of discussion in many posts. New battery, Optimate 3 charger, checked wiring, cleaned carb etc. It kick-started and ran fine, but the e-start would not spin for a full stroke.

Most posts also include something like "check and set valves". I did not do this since I bought the bike from a dealer who stated that had just been done.

Here's the thing, in a few posts (not very many that I could find), it was mentioned that before setting the valves, you must unhook the manual decomp's return spring, so as to correctly seat the auto decomp lobe. I decided that I should reset my valves, making sure this step was addressed and voila, my e-start works like a rocket-sled!

I scanned some old posts and there are many references to "fluttering the manual decomp to spin up the engine", and "e-starting is very labored", and "it seems to be fighting the compression stroke". I also checked the Husaberg owners manual and I did not find mention of the man. Decomp. Spring. Perhaps there are more people like me that missed this?
 
Sean,
I know that I have not read or seen anything regarding the instructions "must unhook the manual decomp's return spring, so as to correctly seat the auto decomp lobe". or i just glanced over it thinking it was unimportant, and I i thought i was up on it. I had an 02 and was constantly looking for the issue.

could it be that you have found the holy grail of the re-start/e-start issues? :?: 8O
 
Risky,
well it certainly was the main culprit for the starting problem on my '05. I would hit the button and get "jaah jeh", it would not finish a revolution, but it would kick start fine.

Last night, just for kicks, I put back in my old battery. (The Optimate 3 identified that it would not hold a full charge, but it did partially charge). Even with the bad battery, it started on the button.

It's definitely weird. I'm just happy I have the button now...my beloved '03 would pick the worst times to be cantankerous...after colliding with trees, after falling down hills...wait, maybe the poor things was trying to tell me something?
 
Sean said:
I just bought a used 2005 FE450E; only 39 hours. It had the, now standard, starting issues. I am not mechanically gifted. (I learned everything from working on my 03 FE400 and using this site. Taffy, thanks for the Doc.)

I think what I just experienced may be of interest to new Husaberg owners with lesser amounts of skill. I checked the doc, went step by step and waded through the copious amounts of discussion in many posts. New battery, Optimate 3 charger, checked wiring, cleaned carb etc. It kick-started and ran fine, but the e-start would not spin for a full stroke.

Most posts also include something like "check and set valves". I did not do this since I bought the bike from a dealer who stated that had just been done.

Here's the thing, in a few posts (not very many that I could find), it was mentioned that before setting the valves, you must unhook the manual decomp's return spring, so as to correctly seat the auto decomp lobe. I decided that I should reset my valves, making sure this step was addressed and voila, my e-start works like a rocket-sled!

I scanned some old posts and there are many references to "fluttering the manual decomp to spin up the engine", and "e-starting is very labored", and "it seems to be fighting the compression stroke". I also checked the Husaberg owners manual and I did not find mention of the man. Decomp. Spring. Perhaps there are more people like me that missed this?

I never read of this until reading your post, but if you stop and think about it you could be right.

If the manual decomp lever is adjusted too tight, such that the decomp shaft ramp is pressing onto the tops of the exhaust rocker arm, it could cause you to set too large of a gap in the exhaust valves, and not allow the autodecomp to open the exhaust valves far enough to adequately decompress the cylinder for starting.

Good job Sean, I think you hit the nail square on the head!

This should be added to the 'Owners Doc'!

Regards,

Joe
 
RE: Re: Hard E-Starting - bad adjustment of auto-decomp

can i just clarify something for everyone here.

the auto decomp has nothing to do with what we're on about here! the auto decomp is all about a weight attached to the camshaft and camwheel. this is about the MANUAL DECOMP!!!!!!!!

i have made a small modification to my manual decomp cam and it's available in my gallery and on the doc. i could hold the manual decomp in and speed up the starter motor when i got it just right. without filing the 'cam' the rocker had the strength to simply shove my finger off the manual decomp lever as i held it!!!!

joe, have i misunderstood this, you're not a man given to eureke moments normally!

someone else download into this thread that photo please?

what i DID was to disconnect the spring on the rightside of the head that pushes the decomp arm. when i did this i found everytime that there was plenty of slack and there was no pressure bearing on the rocker arm.

i think sean got it right by re-setting the tappets!

regards

Taffy
 
RE: Re: Hard E-Starting - bad adjustment of auto-decomp

Taffy, don't forget the ackward auto-decomp on the kick start.
 
RE: Re: Hard E-Starting - bad adjustment of auto-decomp

Hi, I started the link "That Kick start Chestnut" a few days ago and finally came to the group conclusion that I need to re-set the valves.

Download manual in hand, I'm about to do just that.

Apart form cold kickstart problems, my e-start kicks in & then straight out again.

So, looks like I need to try these comments re the de comp spring when I set the valves. Could someone explain how to release this spring ??

PS, A mate came round tonight who used to have a FS 650 - found TDC and kick started it from cold in about 10 kicks, albiet he had to lean the berg against a wall and straddle start it.
 
RE: Re: Hard E-Starting - bad adjustment of auto-decomp

arkley

the manual decomp spring is situated on the right hand side fronnt corner of the head. it is wrapped around the 'L' shapped decomp arm and hooked under the little allen screw that's in the end of the exhaust rocker arm (the black cap).

just take a pair of flat nosed pliers and unhook the spring and leave it loose while you set the tappets. you'll be extatic when you wobble the 'L' piece and find that it's wobbly!

regards

taffy
 
RE: Re: Hard E-Starting - bad adjustment of auto-decomp

Thanks for that. This is the most friendly & useful forum I've seen.
 
RE: Re: Hard E-Starting - bad adjustment of auto-decomp

Taffy,

Good on ya mate. I used the wrong terminology, so thanks for clarifying. That little doohickey springy thing attached to thewatchamacallit...you get the gist. Anyway, I am convinced that several people are adjusting the valves without disconnecting the manual decomp spring; I bought mine used from a dealer that had made this mistake. Easy fix, disconnect, re-adjust valves, press button and by golly she starts with aplomb!

Cheers.
 
RE: Re: Hard E-Starting - bad adjustment of auto-decomp

Sean
I believe that some have set their valves without releasing the spring. IMO that sets the clearances wrong and creates stress and wear on the autodecomp device.
So those that have not worn it out can re-adjust valves correctly and it will work.
And those that have knackered their autodecomp need a new one, then re-adjustment of valves.
In my case, the latter, and i replaced my 03 autodecomp with an 04 which gives even more lift.
For me it has worked superbly - Everytime !
Regards
Ady
 
It's not only the spring, in the other direction are the two cables, the manual as well as the automatic. You must plant the cam roller on the base circle to get it right and both cables and spring must be sufficiently slacked so that the rocker can move freely as you adjust the valve lash. Then, when the valves are done, reengage the spring and readjust your cables. In the 1983(!) Husqvarna manual it says you do a final check of the cable adjustment with running motor. If you can feel the decomp lever on the cylinder head vibrate when you put your fingers on it it is out of adjustment.Turn fully left and right on the handlebar and it should still not vibrate.
It could be that newer models are like the KTMs and they have a stop on the lever that would hopefully define a safe position for it for adjustment, but i dont know.
I'm not talking about the centrifugal autodecomp here at all, that is a completely different system.
 
Arkley
We've all got a bit side tracked here...
It may be your sprague clutch that has worn..
Check out threads under 'sprague'.
Your valves may be fine.
Regards
Ady
 

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