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Gearbox problem on 400fe

Joined Jan 2008
86 Posts | 0+
Europe, Greece
hello, I took I ride yesterday and sometimes the bike made a noise from the gearbox and was acting like the gear was kicked out. Most of the times this happend when there was poor or no traction, but it happened with full traction a few times. Also, I have problems finding neutral when the motor runs. Oil I use is a Castrol non full synthetic 10-40w and I change it every two or three rides. Help, I am worried 8O
 
don't panic yet!

remove the cover and the clutch mechanism. then have a really good look at the three bolts there.

1) holds the sprung wheel for the selector
2) the bolt in the middle of the selector drum
3) the screw through the selector claw

my money is on number 3.

regards

Taffy
 
do I need any special tools to remove the clutch? Air-keys or something?
 
just a pair of circlip pliers. make a note of the timing gears EXACTLY and then you'll be ok.

regards

Taffy
 
Well Taffy, I removed the left cover (very proud of it! :D) and the clutch and checked those three screws... 8O ****, they are all in place and tight. The selector shaft has a few mm free play but I think it's OK. ****... Now what? Why my berg kicks out the gear and goes to neutral? Heeeeeeeelp!!
 

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try something new. take off the star and the sprung wheel. turn the spikes with your hand until you feel first gear then neutral back from that. check that the two shafts spin seperately.

now dummy fit the sprung wheel WITHOUT the spring. this tells you the bike is in nuetral and it tells you where the wheel MEETS the spikes.

now, you should know the different curve that represents neutral. get that ppart of the staron the prongs at the right place.

remove the wheel. refit the spring, refit the assembly. there is a chance that someone had neutral in the wrong place. later bikes had a dot to help you.

regards

Taffy
 
Oh God, I will screw it....


.... panic ....



Ok Taffy, you are very helpfull and since I feel safe with your answers, I'll give it a try. So the point is to get sure that the timing between the star and the spikes for neutral is correct?
 
I did all that and it seems it was in the right place from start. The neutral was on that half spike of the star. When there, the shaft rotates freely. So it must be correct right?

Anything else to check?

Some questions
1. Can I put a softer spring?
2. How can I check the bearing behind the star? I cannot remove the star holder. I think I can see little metal chips in there.
 
blow air through the bearing. you can still watch the action of the selector by hand for little giveaway signs although that said, it doesn't replicate having the cover on!

it's nothing to do witht he spring. did you check the action of the claw? is it smooth? does it FEEL smooth?

regards

Taffy
 
It is not smooth. The spring seems very tight. With less than half turn of the screw either right or left, the roller fails to work. Many times it has not the correct touch with the star, it is not aligned and the picture will prove that it works with its pin and not the roller itself. I hope you get what I mean. Some other times the star gets stuck with a spike on the roller, and then the shaft is free, so it goes to neutral. Maybe I found the problem. Should I buy a 2003 kit No89 (part 230.078) - a new roller and spring? Would it fit?

Check the photos, see what I mean.
 

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get yourself a flat-bladed screw driver and use it as a lever to pull the selector drum out as far as you can. use it behind the star.

secondly, place a washer behind the star?

thirdly, you will not get a clean gear change unless you sre spinniung the rear wheel as you change gear! you need a freind here!

fourthly, you haven't de-burred the selector claw!

after these four i think you've just about had it. that scuffing is nowt!

engine down next!

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
you haven't de-burred the selector claw!


that scuffing is nowt! engine down next!


Did not understand these two, could you explain?

P.S. washer behind the star I will try that one.
 
look in the doc. we talk of deburring the gear selector claw and plate.

the scuffing is nothing to do with it.

regards

Taffy
 
Of course I studied the doc!
just to get sure, you mean those noses in the circle?
 

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johnpan said:
Of course I studied the doc!
just to get sure, you mean those noses in the circle?

Perfect picture johnpan!
Yes, the burrs you have circled are what needs to be filed to get the shifting mechanism working smoothly again.

log
 
no mate, the place that burrs out like mike tyson's nose is at the end of the diagonals. about 2mm before the 'barbs'. i generally run tme along the side face of the bench grinder.

sorry log!

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
no mate, the place that burrs out like mike tyson's nose is at the end of the diagonals. about 2mm before the 'barbs'. i generally run tme along the side face of the bench grinder.

sorry log!

regards

Taffy

Interesting Taffy,...... I've never had a burring problem on the outside diagonals, only on the inside where johnpan's photo shows. Surely you wouldn't advise him to leave those ugly burrs! Those burrs come into contact with the other plate and get hung up causing poor shifting.

index.jpg


Regardless, take that mechanism apart johnpan and clean up those burrs. You'll be amazed at how much better the shifting action is.

log
 
And a few other questions if you can tolerate me! :oops:
 

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