Took my fs570 in valvle adjust at 40 hrs, they left the breather hose off and it ran really poorly got hot and died a couple of times, spit some oil out. Went to pick it up and it did not start battery dead. They replaced the battery sorted the lines and got it running. I go pick it up and it's real hard to start pops and spits while cranking but off we go, we had to adjust the air bleed to get the idle up high enough for it to stay running but it never seemed to be constant and a gain off we go runs great on throttle but the idle is still high compared to before they fooled with it . I take it home and let it sit for 4 hours now it turns over and pops but will not start after a few cranks it's like the battery is dead again. Also the dealer said they replace an injector screen per a TSB for factory. I will also mention that I ahve a 70 degrees map switch that was hooked up and they asked me three times about it being the issue but it never mattered before.Frustrated any ideas ?
Joined May 2011
700 Posts | 3+
Wisconsin, U.S.
Re: fs570
hhhhm...... ran good prior to valve adjust but bad after.... i would assume they knew what they were doing, although i also assumed this once about myself and had a similar occurance on my berg and after one test drive adjusted the valves again and was good to go....anytime i do a job and the result is not the expected, what i just did is usually the first place to look, a lot of times there is something a little off, this really doesnt happen a lot i just work on a lot of things, although now that i think of it, its funny how many times something like this has happened to my berg :? guess better to happen on something of my own vs someone elses vehicle......im sure you will get some other ideas from guys more familiar with your slanty engined efi bike..... :cheers:
hhhhm...... ran good prior to valve adjust but bad after.... i would assume they knew what they were doing, although i also assumed this once about myself and had a similar occurance on my berg and after one test drive adjusted the valves again and was good to go....anytime i do a job and the result is not the expected, what i just did is usually the first place to look, a lot of times there is something a little off, this really doesnt happen a lot i just work on a lot of things, although now that i think of it, its funny how many times something like this has happened to my berg :? guess better to happen on something of my own vs someone elses vehicle......im sure you will get some other ideas from guys more familiar with your slanty engined efi bike..... :cheers:
Yeah, the popping is because they adjusted the valves wrong. You now have a tight valve on your berg, and if it would run, continuing to run it would probably ruin the valve and seat. Re-do the adjustment, get the valves set correctly, and I'm about 90% sure the issue will be gone.
This is why I do my own maintenance, I've seen too many hack dealer mechanics. Unfortunately, they reflect poorly on the good dealer mechanics that are out there that really know what they are doing and who can sometimes perform miracles. I'd make the dealer reset the valves, and find a dealer with a better mechanic.
This is why I do my own maintenance, I've seen too many hack dealer mechanics. Unfortunately, they reflect poorly on the good dealer mechanics that are out there that really know what they are doing and who can sometimes perform miracles. I'd make the dealer reset the valves, and find a dealer with a better mechanic.
Got it started it was hard and almost kills the battery ,went for a ride it ran fine then I noticed the fan comes on and it seems now it runs hot, real hot on a 68 degree day when it never came on on 90 degree F days. Could this be poorly adjusted valves ?
Dealer was sure they had it worked out but no way is this sorted- it never ever had any starting issues, cold or hot and I mean on 40F or 95F days it would re fire no problems and the fan only came one time after a 40 mile rip in the heat.
Dealer was sure they had it worked out but no way is this sorted- it never ever had any starting issues, cold or hot and I mean on 40F or 95F days it would re fire no problems and the fan only came one time after a 40 mile rip in the heat.
Did you think it would fix itself? 
Get out your manual, look up the valve adjustment procedure on this site, and set your valves. It isn't hard. You can't really bugger it up worse than the dealer did. Work carefully and ask back here if you run into problems. Good luck!
Get out your manual, look up the valve adjustment procedure on this site, and set your valves. It isn't hard. You can't really bugger it up worse than the dealer did. Work carefully and ask back here if you run into problems. Good luck!Have it narrowed down to auto decomp cam profile ,seems no matter how the valves are adjusted this is an issue.
If the bike is not on the comp stroke it starts normally if not it wont turn over or turn over slowly. Found a great thread on this site and took it to dealer , they agree and will warranty the issue. If I had done the valev adjust myself and this occured I would have never gotten them to pay for it. It's more an issue of returning my bike to the exact state it was in before they adjusted valves. Seems KTM knows about this issue the dealers don't . Many thanks to this forum- with out it those of us with this issue may never have been able to share the trouble and get it resolved.
If the bike is not on the comp stroke it starts normally if not it wont turn over or turn over slowly. Found a great thread on this site and took it to dealer , they agree and will warranty the issue. If I had done the valev adjust myself and this occured I would have never gotten them to pay for it. It's more an issue of returning my bike to the exact state it was in before they adjusted valves. Seems KTM knows about this issue the dealers don't . Many thanks to this forum- with out it those of us with this issue may never have been able to share the trouble and get it resolved.
I found other posts concerning auto decomp cam issue and it looks like dealer has agreed. Only after trying every shim combo know to man an it makes no difference still no decomp wont turn over. There are two bikes in his shop now they suspect suffer from this issue. Time will tell if we get them back running. If any one from KTM is listening may be a good time to chime in and own up to the severity of this issue. For what these cost I should have bought a KTM and a Rolex .
shawntex, listen for KTM/Husaberg to chime in and all you will hear is the "chirp" "chirp" "chirp" of crickets. :angry:
Waiting for a cam on back order seems funny they have used up all the stock solving this issue, looks like KTM has buried their head in the sand on this deal. 4-5 weeks is too long - I have a 650 frame I may just see if I can build one faster than they can fix mine and probably have a better bike anyway.
I agree with you shawntex. Something is rotten when a freaking camshaft is on back-order. My only hope is they found some "defect" in the original and are making an improved or fixed part. I am trying with all my might to retain faith in Husaberg and all of really want is a bad *** bike that runs right. There are a lot of people here that have bikes that run great and I am hoping I will be one of them.
Keep the faith brother.
Keep the faith brother.
Well, I picked up the Berg last Saturday but due to a hand injury, I wasn't able to even take it for a test ride. The camshaft was replaced and supposedly, that will take care of the starting issue I was having. Shawntex's FS was in the same shop with the same dealer and he reported positive results so my hopes are high.
I also have ordered and received a new injector to hopefully take care of the "on again, off again" dying issue. My injector has zero ohms of resistance but the dealer said the one he pulled off the shelf also had zero ohms of resistance so that couldn't be the problem. According to this site as well as a buddy's clogged injector I tested, there should be 10.3-10.7 ohms of resistance. The new one I received has 10.7 ohms of resistance. According to another buddy, there is no way an injector can have zero resistance as it will overload the ECU and make the bike die intermittently.
Stay tuned.
I also have ordered and received a new injector to hopefully take care of the "on again, off again" dying issue. My injector has zero ohms of resistance but the dealer said the one he pulled off the shelf also had zero ohms of resistance so that couldn't be the problem. According to this site as well as a buddy's clogged injector I tested, there should be 10.3-10.7 ohms of resistance. The new one I received has 10.7 ohms of resistance. According to another buddy, there is no way an injector can have zero resistance as it will overload the ECU and make the bike die intermittently.
Stay tuned.
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