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fork tuning for enduros

I'm looking at three things and NOT at one!

I'm not looking at a bleed in the MV because it is down to 0.8mm MV float and couldn't be smaller really!

what I am looking at is
1) I need a 10mm clamp shim coz Terry hay knows his stuff.
2) I have a very stiff rebound but the free bleed is open so I'm going to look at closing this off
3) blocking the one drilled hole I have left in the BV piston

agree with most of this?

problem is that I need a soft start and a hard finish and I'm gradually hardening even the soft stuff. I think we're agreed that it may well be that initial bleed and the fact that it keeps bleeding till the end.

regards

Taffy
 
well Im not sure you've taken it all in yet regarding the time component there is definately more than 1 thing going on with it. once you get your head around the concept it holds the key to a soft initial feel and a stiffer long stroke damping :wink:

but yes overall mostly agreed less BV bleed and more MV bleed is something to try

I still think at some point you need to address the initial harshness of your MV spring
 
you know that I went to the softer MV spring of the later bikes don't you Bushie? OK, I've had the ZP3 mod and I think I even had one of them 'corrected' and I have only 0.8mm float. but softer springs?

Bushie, I've taken in a LOT of what you/Jem say. I'll be working on it!

regards

Taffy
 
well I'm going to try a larger crossover. i've gone from 2 x 24, a 14, 24 x 3. to: 24 x 2, a 16, 3 x 24. I may even try it 4th shim in as well in time.

BTW, I've just bought some preload caps and they are only for the 12mm cartridge rods and I have been trying to split them open to have them machined. anyone know how you get the rebound pin out the middle? all we can see is the pin and two slits in the side of the pin well down. just on the off chance someone has played with one.

regards

Taffy
 
well your crossover gave me a real surprise bushie!

for just the change of a 14 to a 16 crossover the front became horrible over trail trash and only got acceptable when the comp was fully 25 out.

my conclusion is that there is way too much fluid leaving via the first two 24s in the BV while they are fully warped! i now have 105mm air gap and had my first 'unused session' with 15mm unused despite me opening th comp clicker quite a way.

so I fancy a few things:
move the 16 straight after the face 24.
with 24 face, 16 becomes 18, 24 x 4, 22, remove the 20, next is 18. so the crossover and the support become 18s.
go radical and have a [email protected] stopper and pull out several shims to start again
go some of the above but go 23, 22, 23 etc on the MV?

regards

Taffy
 
the gist of jers 2c is leave the X over at 16 or preferably remove it and adjust the mid to suit, just making the BV stiffer has the effect you noticed.. its stiffer.. so next step is the mid
 
well I didn't know whether to go with a BV or MV change next but I think I will try the MV and have a crossover in there. I need to change a shim rather than add a crossover with the (edit: problem of the...) overall effect of strengthening the stack.

so 23, 23, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14 goes to 23, 18, 23, 22, 20, 16, 14. that or do the same with the 20 instead. what do you think?

regards

Taffy
 
well I had three in the BV piston till recently and only have the one now.

you really can't get a 'curve' on these shim stacks. it's one straight line half the time. i guess if it wasn't for a two stage stack i think we'd be buggered...

regards

Taffy
 
well I'm going for:
23, 23, 18, 22, 20, 18 etc etc adding the 18 crossover in and float reducing to 0.7mm.
I added my first postring of 0.2mm so float will be back to 0.9mm.
oil height is now 103mm.

regards

Taffy
 
Hello!
Took of my forks to change oil and clean the forks inside opened BV an found 24,22,20,18,16,14,11,18.
Seems some shims short or?

Have 5w oil and comp open 28, rebound 25 to get a good grip and feeling, started at 16 clicks out and now it is almost fully open.
Can it have to do with my strange shimstack compared to what Taffy have?

Sorry, had a closer look at the spare parts manual for -01 forks and it seems to be a FC fork i have, so if i add the missing shims makes that the fork softer?

Of course i have to look at the other stacks too

Regards
Jampe
 
jampe said:
Hello!
Took of my forks to change oil and clean the forks inside opened BV an found 24,22,20,18,16,14,11,18.
Seems some shims short or?

Have 5w oil and comp open 28, rebound 25 to get a good grip and feeling, started at 16 clicks out and now it is almost fully open.
Can it have to do with my strange shimstack compared to what Taffy have?

Sorry, had a closer look at the spare parts manual for -01 forks and it seems to be a FC fork i have, so if i add the missing shims makes that the fork softer?

Of course i have to look at the other stacks too

Regards
Jampe
Click to expand...

it does seem totally wrong!

you need at least 3 or 4 x the 24 face shim. because that is wrong, it makes the clickers all wrong. so start getting it all down on paper and off you go!

regards

Taffy
 
Ok
Have done following.
Found some shims in another WP fork i have dissambled.
Tried this conf after reading Taffys conf, BV 24,24,14,24,24,24,22,20,18,16,14,12,11,12,10 did`t have any 9
Did not touched the rebound since i dont have any more shims.
Feels much better in the snowtracks less tiering for my arms, and more "distinct", have melting snow here now so the speed is not so fast yet.

Going to fix the rebound too.

Thanks for all the good work you are doing here Taffy!

Regards
Jampe
 
Jampe

you may find it interesting to read, if you haven't allready, the posts made earlier in this thread by your countryman "Smorgasbord"

same conditions same forks different approach
 
Sorry, it hit me when i woke up this morning.
Forgot to mention all you other guy`s who are making this tread and UHE so "heavy" none forgotten.

Was afraid to get the trailer long as the one from Star Wars ;-)
Knowledge here at UHE makes it easyer to own a old Husaberg

Thanks again all of you.

Regards
Jampe
 
Thanks Jampe

That is why I made and push this thread for so long. compared to standard these improvements are a huge leap forwards.

it's not just the shim stacks: it's the bottoming cones, the preload on the springs, the top out springs even.

good luck!!!!

Taffy
 

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