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fork tuning for enduros

so your saying its too soft for LS rebound?

My views are generally LS rebound is too stiff for repeated small bumps and the gap between HS/LS stacks is too big with the 0.1mm slpitter so it can feel too soft for large LS movements but its just the gap to HS being too big or the MS is too soft.

long stroke LS = short stroke MS so perhaps look at closing the x over gap either preload dish the reb face or use a thinner shim

I tried Smorgys mod with the prelaoded Rebound and bleed hole in the mid as one of the first mods on the stock stuff ... very very good
 
rode in my first enduro on sunday for 17 months or so and it was a proper test after all the MX tracks and the tight woods at swaffham.

the forks were beautiful with only a couple of small caveats:
the forks can still bottom out over a smooth landing like the downface of a tabletop
the rebound at LS is still rubbish but is excellent at high speeds.

I went from a rolls-royce ride in the morning mud to something that was drying for the afternoon so I went up 5 on comp and rebound. the rebound was no better and the comp was given the higher speeds it got no worse. I'm only getting caught a couple of times a lap.

well I've rebuilt the forks and that makes worksheet No.33 complete......I must be useless! :lol:

I have stuck another face shim in the MV to stop the plunging through without a spike so:
23, 23, 22, 22, 20, 18, 16, 16, 14.

the rebound for this time I have gone to a 17 splitter so:
24d x 4, 17, 20, 19, 18, 16, 14, 12, 11, [email protected], [email protected], stopper

i've added a 3mm ring to the rebound needle so that the needle does as it's friggin told (will invest in viton soon...

I've also gone back from 115 to 110 air gap

finally i have recalibrated the fork springs and added 2mm to the preload to make 4mm this is from what was originally was 3mm but has changed over a couple of years.

I can boost the BV at a circuit when I next test but right now this is awesome.

we'll see....

regards

Taffy
 
Hello Taffy
You must have worn out all the threads in your susp, by now ;-)

Have starting to read the whole tread about fork tuning, but must say it is very difficult to get some conclusion about all the mods and drilled holes here and there.
Are looking for setup for stones and roots and are following your good work in this subject.

Regards
Jampe
 
I appreciate it's not easy jampe. my suspension is coming back towards standard with only some parts - not the shim stacks - being different. however it has been about learning and I have kept all the info in the top bit of my head!

I don't know what a good roots set up is really - i suppose it's something that doesn't deflect when it hits a sharp edge?

you have many husabergs so which one is it all for?

regards

Taffy
 
I am only driving the 400 -00 with 04 chassi just now, the old 501 -99 is resting.
On my way to get the FC/FE 501 back to the tracks but the best bike just now is the 400 -00 with the 04 chassi and Rekluse.

When the FC/FE 501 -00 is ready for race i`am going to work with the susp on the 400, but after what i have seen in the 501`s head i think it will be a beast in the tricky tracks.
The intake is so open and the camshaft looks really angry compared to the FE camshaft.
Have to try to not buy anymore bikes and make a real effort to learn to adjust the susp, on the 400 witch i think is the best bike for the tricky tracks we have here.

Regards
Jampe
 
well I have a 400, with a rekluse, in an '04 chassis except that I have the 2002 engine. I imagine yours with a EXC head on it would be superb! head, cam, carb...the lot! I once said my ideal bike would be a FC501 engine in a 2004-2008 chassis.

back to suspension..... fact is, all this could have been achieved quicker with more input but how many are testing and putting up shim stacks here?

regards

Taffy
 
Let it be known that I no longer make adjustments to my suspention at all weather it be track or trail.

And I think I have toasted my second set of rear wheel bearings.

Pushing 5000 miles now.

And I found a couple flakes of gold in my oil screan, I think I going to be rich.
 
F+ said:
Let it be known that I no longer make adjustments to my suspention at all weather it be track or trail.

And I think I have toasted my second set of rear wheel bearings.

Pushing 5000 miles now.

And I found a couple flakes of gold in my oil screan, I think I going to be rich.

? :scream: :scream:

regards

Taffy
 
? :scream: :scream:

regards

Taffy[/quote]
Shouldn't you be polishing your swing arm
 
I just did my sags and they were front 600-560-530 so static 40mm, rider 70mm .
(i mesured from front axle to front fender)
on the rear it was 705-680-610 so static 25mm, rider 95mm

are these sag settings ok on the forks :?:

Regards
 
Don`t know about the front but the rear i would adjust to 115-125 mm depending of what kind of tracks you are riding.
Tried on my bike from 90mm-135mm and in tracks with stones and roots i prefer 125mm of course this is depending on the front too, little more "chopper" style makes my bike more steady in stone and root tracks.
But this makes the bike slower to take tight corners.
This is if you have springs for your weight.

Regards
Jampe
 
The_Force said:
I just did my sags and they were front 600-560-530 so static 40mm, rider 70mm .
(i mesured from front axle to front fender)
on the rear it was 705-680-610 so static 25mm, rider 95mm

are these sag settings ok on the forks :?:

Regards

I'm at 30mm static in front and I'm about 200lb tacked up.
(I mesured the silver shaft lower part only give or take 1 mm)

I have not pinched the front fender to the frame either since I did this. Even after sky rear wheel front slap landings by mistake of coarse.

I have so many bumps in and out of the corners of my track sometimes I think someone is out there with a shovel messing with me.

The air valves bleed and spray when I hit them and I have less fork oil then I am suppose too. Filled to the top when fully compressed.

And something new I learned, when you use that pedle thing on the right side, you need to come out in 3rd gear.
 
well you want 35 on the front and 40 is ever so slightly harder than required but depends on preload.

on the rear I have found best steering angle at low speeds to be 90mm = the minimum. the first soft sag that allows the rear to squat exiting a corner for me is 103mm though. i have a 2004-2008 chassis. the answer is to adjust the fork height to get the 'drop in' right and then see how you can adjust all this.

regards

Taffy
 
well I removed a 16 from the MV and added a 22 as said which is virtually a 4th face shim

23, 23, 22 added, 20, 18, 16, ****, 14 (***16 removed)

it reacted slightly more to small stuff while still unable to slow the forks over a jump and brake. better though.

I had 15mm unused due to going back to 110mm air gap. now the interesting thing is that last time I ran this the forks completely used their travel. this tells me that with the last two changes being at the MV stack: that infact less oil is going through the MV and choosing to exit via the BV. if i have that right it means that I have the two very finely balanced and I'm kind quite proud of that! this means that as I suspected I need to add to the BV now so that the MV is still fully used. i need to keep the cartridge pressure up.

hope this makes sense - i hope i'm right? I wanted to make changes at the track but i'd overtightened the BV with a certain tool that I shouldn't have used! :oops: :oops:

after raising the clamps on the legs by 5mm and the fact that I'd closed the compression meant that I ended with 20mm unused.

regards

Taffy
 
stuck a 14 in the BV stack for
24, 24, 24 14, 24, 24, 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 15, 14, 12, 11, [email protected]
bike was really stiff and also even with the clickers backed off felt like it was a rubber ball which i guess is pressure in the cartridge tube being held there by the BV stack?

so I turned the bike over and took a 24 face shim off. bike was then back to spot on and indeed add +6 to comp clickers and could have gone further. Full travel used yet again.

not sure how I'm going to stop the bike ploughing through full travel and I'm afraid UHE help isn't here is it? :cuss:

I'm going to try adding a 17 in the middle and take a stage two 24 shim out. the ratio of MV and BV appears to my eyes to be almost spot-on as I have 110mm air gap and full travel. to my eyes that means that the oil is going through the MV stack and staying in the cartridge allowing the fork to bottom out?

question: will loading the forks with small pivot (is that the right term?) shims stop the full travel. I just can't stop it! forks are lovely but I didn't expect to use all the travel?

should I have used a 10mm clamping shim all along? Terry Hay appears too?

regards

Taffy
 
I think you're going to need to consider the time component of tuning and the effect of exessive bleed and the negative sides of a crossover to get the travel issue sorted.

this is from JW

Cross overs or transtions.. A topic of much debate...

So before we can even begin to delve into such topics we must first set-up a frame work.

Defintions, or such might be a goood place to start:

Cross over fall into two major groups:

Independent Cross over:
Independent Crossover is the type you have just listed. 12mm for example in a stack with a 24mm face shim. The gap the shim produces must be bent over by the 24mm shim before the shims bellow contribute any more resistance to further deflection.

NON-Independent cross over:
This is less comon type, and I belive to be the most usefule. What happens with a N-independent is the OD of the crossover is such that the shims above the crossover apply force and subsequent deflection over the whole bending moment. The only diference being that the deflection rates are in diferential to the design of the crossover. Inother words we could configure the crossover to increase defelction rates when you are fartther into the deflection range.


What Independent crossovers acomplish is a lag in force force both from a time and from a absolute force consideration. What really happens with your base-valve forinstance is the oil flow through the fixed orfice (clicker) reaches a flow threshold. The fluid flow meets signifcant resistance at some speed, based on setting, then ar that point you feel resistance until the shim stack starts to open at this point the damping force rate of increase actually slows. Now the rate stays nearly constant until you've crossover the transtion. The valves area growth is not limited beyound the effective spring rate of one shim. Once the crossover has been deflected over the shim stacks stiffness is increased and subsequent valve area growth is limited by the effect of the other shims. The rate increases again.

If you look at transtions on a instantontainus level the time factor of the design is also important. When we have a independent crossover imagine if the force of the impact acting on the wheel is signifacnt enough to cause a large deflection at the shim stack. The shims must actually bend the distance to create the area required by the flow. The fluid is meet with little restiastance relative to the area required until the cross over is closed. Where this matters is say some square hard ripples with little wheel movement, so flow volumes are not signifacnt but flow speeds are. (I'm convinced thats why some riders build this type of set-up and go its great! when the over all performance may be horible.)

The major issue with a Indpendent cross over is the fork confuses the realtionship of force and time, and can create a very two faced feel. Imagine the rider cannot percive the subtle diferences between one bump or load and another effectrively. When the rider incounters one bump it may not cross over and the area of the valve does not produce signifacnt damping force, the riders go WOW that was awesome! Then a second later another bump with a techincally slightly diferent shape produces a bigger flow volume and speed and the rider gets the bars ripped out of her hands... That leaves the rider going what just happened? Subtle diferences create massivly diferent valve area requirments, Independent stages creat large areas in the damping force curve where subtle speed ranges create the same effective valve area...

Now... One more improtant detail. Shim defelction is limtied to a realtively small value, depending on piston design. Lets say we have a piston design that will create .35mm deflection at the piston face to create maxiumum valve area based on our rod daimter and its "highes" speed. This stack must control the entire range of valve area growth effectively. (That depends on a lot of stuff well leave it simple for now). So we place a .1mm indpendent transtion in the stack. We just gave up one third of our total defelction. Now to control the addtional area growth we must effectly stiffen the portion below the transtion. However paradoxically, when we stiffen it we create a signifacnt change in the deflection/force realtionship. The fork feels much harsher right after the transtion with only a small increase in speed..



Ok.. So this is a lot for anyone to digest. The important thing to rember is that all designs have a compromise, what feels good may feel horriable somewhere else. What all tuners must do is create the smallest posible compromise, regardless of what may feel best in a VERY narrow circumstance. When typing this out its amazing how hard it is to say anything without putting a case into it as all the set-up paramters impact the outcome of the design. Its very easy for me to see why forinstance a "low flow piston" is so critical to our cause.. But anyway thats a whole other case..
 
so basically Xovers and bleed increase the delay before the shims start to work properly

my take on it looking at your stacks is that the MV spring in your forks in heavilly preloaded that adds initial harshness, to counter that you have a lot of BV bleed and a softish 1st stage, both those factors increase the initial delay making it hard to control the fork at certain speeds

in simple terms if you want to reduce travel with the shims you're going to have to make it stiffer somewhere but you will most likely need a bleed hole in the mid and less preload on the MV spring to get the fork to feel nice at the same time. I.e you need stiffer somewhere but then its too harsh, so you need to change something to gain a nicer feel and make the damping act sooner at the same time.

another idea to try is air pressure in the forks I have a T line plumbed into the bleeders hooked up to a schrader valve run about 150mm airgap (less) and add 3-5psi to counter it

its lets you tune the progression of the forks and adjust their behaviour very finely, I find too that with some positive pressure the forks behave more consistently and the pressure no longer builds up with riding.
 

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