fe600 elduro starter

tymo62 said:

hi all, does anyone know for sure what type of starter i can use for my fe600,i have read that a starter from a cbr600 will wind it over quicker,as well as a r6 starter and so on,i bought a starter from a 01 cbr 600 but it has smaller shaft size on the spline,your help here would be appreicted

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The starters you have described fit the 2001 models and up.

I have not heard of a cross reference starter for the 2000 models and below. The stock Husaberg starter works well on the first generation motor and there is no compelling reason to switch it.

tymo62 said:

hi all, does anyone know for sure what type of starter i can use for my fe600,i have read that a starter from a cbr600 will wind it over quicker,as well as a r6 starter and so on,i bought a starter from a 01 cbr 600 but it has smaller shaft size on the spline,your help here would be appreicted

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One of the rotax starters fits but most people are too lazy to find out - or tell us!

regards

Taffy

tymo, listen to what husabutt is telling you. the info on starter replacement ONLY APPLIES TO 2001-2002. :bash:

If you are having trouble with a pre-2001 starter, it can be fixed without changing out major parts.

MAKE SURE your decompressor is working and that the flyweight spring is strong enough and has enough preload to keep it on until the engine gets over at least 700 RPM or so. You almost have to pull the camshaft out and spin it in a drill to check this.

Measure the voltage across the starter motor while it is cranking. If this drops too low even though the decomp is working then you need to check the battery, battery leads and starter solenoid. If the decomp ain't working the voltage will drop low anyway...

and as has been explained, this is an area that we continuously tell people what the lead is. there are still avenues unexplored here, we haven't done everything we could.

a good chat with someone who knows all the starters and replacements etc could reveal great treasures - or nothing!

up to you fella but i do know that we have nothing new on it here.

regards

Taffy

tymo62 said:

when it winds over it seems to wind over too slow to kick the engine over,the engine back fires and refuses to start,hot or cold,the starter clutch seems to make a racket and if i put the jumper leads on from my car the engine will start off the button no worries,the battery is new and the charge regulator has been replaced with a later model unit giving it 14v charge while its running,the engine will fire on one kick of the kick starter nearly all the time. i thought if i replaced the starter with a more gruntier unit i would be ok,this is why i was going down the track of a replacement starter

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The starters worked fine on these models albeit way too heavy. They feel like five pounds plus.

My guess is your battery has issues. Are you keeping it plugged into a high tech charger all the time when the bike is not in use? Use an Optimate 3, 4 or equivalent.

If you went cheap on the battery upgrade to a YTZ10s or 12s. They are heavy but put out the CCA's. Check the battery dimensions on the Yuasa site as I think they were the same for the YTZ10s, YTZ12s and YTZ14s. Compare to the stock battery dimensions.

You may want to replace the starter relay with a new one as these are inexpensive and can also cause a weak starter even when everything else is O.K.

Your autodecompression device is probably not an issue as you are able to kick start it.

Even if your decomp is not working properly your starter should still be able to spin the motor. Those starters are that powerful.

tymo62 said:

im a bit worried about the bendix noises though,is it true that full synthetic oils can cause these to slip?

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There has been a ton of debate on the subject of oil types and its effect on the sprague.

If its slipping and requires a new one the cases will have to be split.

If you would like to try a non-synthetic try Chevron Delo 400 15 -40wt diesel engine oil.

Change your oil often, as in every 6-8 hours or sooner if possible.

I use Delo 400 now as its just too expensive to use exotic synthetics when changing that frquently.

On the older bikes you will get a lot of aluminum shavings in the oil from the timing chain sawing its way through the cylinder. Its therefore extra important to keep fresh juice in her.


After riding in the saddle for extended periods of time you may get the condition known as husabutt:

husabutt said:

....My guess is your battery has issues. Are you keeping it plugged into a high tech charger all the time when the bike is not in use? Use an Optimate 3, 4 or equivalent.

If you went cheap on the battery upgrade to a YTZ10s or 12s. They are heavy but put out the CCA's. Check the battery dimensions on the Yuasa site as I think they were the same for the YTZ10s, YTZ12s and YTZ14s. Compare to the stock battery dimensions.

You may want to replace the starter relay with a new one as these are inexpensive and can also cause a weak starter even when everything else is O.K.

Your autodecompression device is probably not an issue as you are able to kick start it.

Even if your decomp is not working properly your starter should still be able to spin the motor. Those starters are that powerful.

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I wouldn't swap anything out until you do as many tests as you can to prove whether it is actually busted first. Put a voltmeter across the terminals of the starter solenoid while it is cranking. If you see any more than about 0.5 to 1 volt there then I'd do as Husabutt recommends.

I have the YTZ12S battery in mine and it has lasted very well. Had it disconnected from the bike since February without charging and it still started the bike fine in October. At the time I got it I tried to get a YTZ14S - see the attached Yuasa battery dimension info. It is supposed to be the same size but seems to be an OEM Kawasaki part and not available readily through battery shops here.

When my decomp was not working at all, I could still kick start the bike quite OK with the right technique. I found I used to use both the kick and electric start together to make it easier. With the decomp fixed it now stars quite easily on the button alone.

If the decomp is not working the starter will still spin it on its own, but you can hear the engine nearly come to a stop each time it hits a compression.

Yep. One multimeter lead on each of the two big bolt terminals on the starter solenoid. Before you press the start button you should measure exactly the same voltage across here as you do across the battery terminals. When you press the button this should drop to as close to zero as possible. Over time, the main switching contacts inside the solenoid (it is really just a fuggin big switch with an electric magnet that turns it on) get burnt, the oxide & **** builds up so that the switch doesnt short as well as it should.

Some solenoids can be pulled apart & cleaned if you are really short of cash or just get off on doing things cheap. It is generally better to just replace it.

You can do a similar test across any of the starter cables as well. They should always be as close as possible to a dead short between opposite ends of the same cable - meaning the voltage you measure across it while cranking should be close to zero. If you add up voltage drops across all the cables and the solenoid contacts you shoud have less than about 2 volts total. Any more and it is worth replacing cables and checking their connections as well.

Note that during cranking, the battery will drop to 9 or 10 volts. This minus the 2 volts loss in the solenoid & cables will leave only 7 or 8 volts at the starter!

Just looking at Mr Husabutt's pic - gees toilet paper would be a challenge if you had a tail......

Remember you have to split the engine cases to get to the sprague clutch on the pre-2001 engines. Fairly major work.