Can someone please tell me the correct torque for the counter shaft sprocket bolt on a 2011 FE570S ?
It must be in the manual somewhere .. but I can't find it!?!?!?
It must be in the manual somewhere .. but I can't find it!?!?!?
What is the Countershaft Sproket?
Do you mean the Front Chain Sprocket on the Engine?
50033029013 FRONT SPROCKET 13-T
50033029014 FRONT SPROCKET 14-T
50033029015 FRONT SPROCKET 15-T
59033034044 SCREW 10.9+SPRING WASHER
This is for 09/10 and I assume 11 is the same:
Screw, engine sprocket
M10
60 Nm (44.3 lbf ft)
Loctite 243
Undo anti-clockwise like any other bolt. Use an impact gun and bike in neutral. I just held my boot on the rear wheel when loosening the bolt.
Clean the bolt with a brass wire brush, blow the countershaft hole out with an air compressor.
Make sure you have the sprocket facing in the proper direction. It makes a difference.
I kept the bike in neutral and kept my foot on the back brake when torqueing back up tight.
Davo
Do you mean the Front Chain Sprocket on the Engine?
50033029013 FRONT SPROCKET 13-T
50033029014 FRONT SPROCKET 14-T
50033029015 FRONT SPROCKET 15-T
59033034044 SCREW 10.9+SPRING WASHER
This is for 09/10 and I assume 11 is the same:
Screw, engine sprocket
M10
60 Nm (44.3 lbf ft)
Loctite 243
Undo anti-clockwise like any other bolt. Use an impact gun and bike in neutral. I just held my boot on the rear wheel when loosening the bolt.
Clean the bolt with a brass wire brush, blow the countershaft hole out with an air compressor.
Make sure you have the sprocket facing in the proper direction. It makes a difference.
I kept the bike in neutral and kept my foot on the back brake when torqueing back up tight.
Davo
Thanks and yes, it is the "Front Chain Sprocket on the Engine". I guess calling it the counter shaft sprocket is a USA term. I am changing from the stock 14T down to a 13T.Davo said:
Can I ask where in the Husaberg manual you found that info?
Thanks, again, Ross
Gargoyle said:
I got it from the Repair Manual CD FX/FE/FS 390-570 2009/2010 Part Number 3803006
I am sure it is in the Husaberg manual that came with the bike too but I don't have mine handy. I think it is in the Engine Tightening Torque Section down towards the bottom of the page, look for M10 Bolts, then look for "Screw, engine sprocket".
Also a bit more info in this post:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13012&
Regards,
Davo.
Yes, I see it now. Page 89. Thank you for the "translation" from my USA "lingo" into Husaberg.Davo said:
Next dumb question ... do you know how I can order one of these "Repair Manual CDs" for my bike?
Removing the sprocket bolt with an impact gun is fine, but do not use an impact gun to tighten the bolt. Torque the bolt down properly with a torque wrench while the rear brake is held on.
Yes, for sure. Just need to run out and grab some loctite before I torque her.Chas said:
Gargoyle said:
No such thing as a dumb question on UHE
I purchased my Repair Manul CD from the dealer I purchased the bike off here in Sydney (Suttos at Penrith)
You can also order them on line at:
http://www.ktm-parts.com/
Regards,
Davo.
Thanks Davo, I will talk to my dealer to try to get the CD.
Next question ... I put the 13T sprocket on last night but only finger tight because I didn't have any loctite or the torque spec. I also put the chain on and adjusted the chain tension.
When I went out to my garage this evening to loctite and torque the front sprocket bolt on ... there was a small pool of oil under the bike. It appears to have come from the sprocket shaft. Was this leak due to me not tightening down the front chain sprocket bolt? Help?!?!
Next question ... I put the 13T sprocket on last night but only finger tight because I didn't have any loctite or the torque spec. I also put the chain on and adjusted the chain tension.
When I went out to my garage this evening to loctite and torque the front sprocket bolt on ... there was a small pool of oil under the bike. It appears to have come from the sprocket shaft. Was this leak due to me not tightening down the front chain sprocket bolt? Help?!?!
Hi Gargoyle,
I can't help on that one. My Front Sprocket was off my bike for over a day when I was installing my T.M. Designworks Chain Guides and I did not see any oil from the Front Sprocket area.
Did the bush fall out behind the Front Sprocket?
Are you sure it is not Air Filter oil? Mine always leaks down from the Air Filter, then down the frame behind the aftermarket Frame Protectors, then down around the stand and drips on the floor.
Davo.
I can't help on that one. My Front Sprocket was off my bike for over a day when I was installing my T.M. Designworks Chain Guides and I did not see any oil from the Front Sprocket area.
Did the bush fall out behind the Front Sprocket?
Are you sure it is not Air Filter oil? Mine always leaks down from the Air Filter, then down the frame behind the aftermarket Frame Protectors, then down around the stand and drips on the floor.
Davo.
Joined Apr 2002
3K Posts | 11+
Phoenix Arizona
There is a front and back side to the gear. I with an after market gear that had the stamp on the wrong side. The seal started leaking after the first ride. Swapped the gear around and replaced the seal, no problems.
In your instance I think I would install the gear and check for leaks before replacing the seal.
In your instance I think I would install the gear and check for leaks before replacing the seal.
Thanks guys. There was a small (maybe 10 drops) amount of new oil this morning. I am going to pull the sprocket off and check everything tonight.
Well ... I torqued everything and installed the front chain guard. It's not leaking oil now.
The only thing I can think is that not having the front chain guard mounted allowed the slight leakage of oil? Doesn't really make sense to me, but that's the only variable I can find between leaking and not leaking. Ugh?
The only thing I can think is that not having the front chain guard mounted allowed the slight leakage of oil? Doesn't really make sense to me, but that's the only variable I can find between leaking and not leaking. Ugh?
So I went riding over the weekend and put on about 200 tough trail miles. When cleaning my bike today I took off the chain and front chain guard to ensure I cleaned around the front sprocket well.
But the oil leak is now back. Definitely leaks when the front chain guard is removed. This doesn't sound right to me. Any ideas guys? Or is this normal for a 570?
But the oil leak is now back. Definitely leaks when the front chain guard is removed. This doesn't sound right to me. Any ideas guys? Or is this normal for a 570?
from the picture it looks like your slave cylinder is the one leaking and not your countershaft seal. I don't have a fe570 but it looks like the bolts that hold your chainguard on are the same bolts that hold your clutch slave cylinder on. change the green gasket in the picture.
from what I see on the parts fiche there is also an o-ring seal in there, I would replace both seals
Agreed, I don't think it's the countershaft seal.
I will replace those two you mention and see if that helps. Thanks helithumper.
I will replace those two you mention and see if that helps. Thanks helithumper.
Why can't you use an impact wrench, with the bike in gear, to tighten the sprocket bolt?
Would damage to the engine internals result, or would you just run the risk of breaking the bolt head off due to the excessive torque load?
Would damage to the engine internals result, or would you just run the risk of breaking the bolt head off due to the excessive torque load?
I used an impact wrench to tighten my sprocket bolt and snapped it right off. A fun way to spend a Saturday afternoon it is NOT. I would avoid using an impact wrench on anything on a bike. Just my 2 cents. :mrgreen:
I removed the sprocket without impact gun or any other tools to hold it in place other than slight rear brake use.
Just pre heat the thing with heat gun so the loctite breaks loose and metal softens. Comes off without effort.
Cleaned threads inside the shaft and bolt, new loctite and torqued back with 1st gear in only. Enough compression to hold 60Nm torque without spinning motor backwards.
Just pre heat the thing with heat gun so the loctite breaks loose and metal softens. Comes off without effort.
Cleaned threads inside the shaft and bolt, new loctite and torqued back with 1st gear in only. Enough compression to hold 60Nm torque without spinning motor backwards.
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