FE 570 soft map?

Sorry I don't have any good advise for you. All I can tell you is that what you are experiencing in the soft mode is not normal. On my 09 570 the bike runs well in soft mode, it just spins up slower. It's hard to break the back wheel loose unless your really trying.

berger said:

Sorry I don't have any good advise for you. All I can tell you is that what you are experiencing in the soft mode is not normal. On my 09 570 the bike runs well in soft mode, it just spins up slower. It's hard to break the back wheel loose unless your really trying.

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+1

Davo said:

berger said:

Sorry I don't have any good advise for you. All I can tell you is that what you are experiencing in the soft mode is not normal. On my 09 570 the bike runs well in soft mode, it just spins up slower. It's hard to break the back wheel loose unless your really trying.

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+1

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+1

+1 BUT....I know from travelling, altitude, temps, humidity etc make all sort of changes to how well the EFI works. Have you initialized the bike at those lower temps? ie have you started and ran it without toughing any controls for a number of minutes. I'm wondering that the temp inputs affect the soft map more than others....all I can think of for you..

fryguy said:

+1 BUT....I know from travelling, altitude, temps, humidity etc make all sort of changes to how well the EFI works. Have you initialized the bike at those lower temps? ie have you started and ran it without toughing any controls for a number of minutes. I'm wondering that the temp inputs affect the soft map more than others....all I can think of for you..

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Starting 2010 model Husabergs and letting them run for a number of minutes without touching the controls does nothing apart from warm the engine up.
Davo.

On my 570FE the map switch is round and looks like a volume control thingy. It's marked 0-9. Can anyone tell me which of the ten numbers correspond to soft, normal, crazy. Do I have to shut down and then restart for a new setting to take effect? I love my Berg but know little about mapping and which systems are affected (fuel, timing).

Thanks, Booger

1 Soft
2 Aggressive
3 Standard

I have been told you need to turn the bike off when changing the Switch positions.

I made my own map switch as the factory one is too hard to change:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12366

70Degree Racing sell a better map switch:
http://www.70degreeracing.com

Davo said:

1 Soft
2 Aggressive
3 Standard

I have been told you need to turn the bike off when changing the Switch positions.

I made my own map switch as the factory one is too hard to change:
http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12366

70Degree Racing sell a better map switch:
http://www.70degreeracing.com

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Hmmmmm....the previous owner of my 09 450 said 0 was soft, 1 was basic, and 2 was aggresive.

pistolpete77 said:

Hmmmmm....the previous owner of my 09 450 said 0 was soft, 1 was basic, and 2 was aggresive.

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I was told by the dealer. When you start your bike you should not touch the throttle at the same time as you hit the starter, something to do with the sensors not knowing where they should be, as nothing comes alive until the engine starts and your throttle body sensor will be open when it should be shut, If there right it might cause a bike to run like a bag of Shiite.
I start mine by just hitting the starter and nothing else never had any problems yet
I forgot to say, thanks for posting the wiring diagram Davo, it works a treat, i just mounted mine where the indicator switch should be, no one can tell its been modified :cheers:

mark2e0 said:

I was told by the dealer. When you start your bike you should not touch the throttle at the same time as you hit the starter, something to do with the sensors not knowing where they should be, as nothing comes alive until the engine starts and your throttle body sensor will be open when it should be shut, If there right it might cause a bike to run like a bag of Shiite.
I start mine by just hitting the starter and nothing else never had any problems yet
I forgot to say, thanks for posting the wiring diagram Davo, it works a treat, i just mounted mine where the indicator switch should be, no one can tell its been modified :cheers:

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That dealer telling you that you should not touch the throttle because the sensor not knowing where it should be, contradicts the information Mark Donovan who is also a dealer got told by the factory support. The ECU will know when the throttle is closed at 0% because the TPS will read 0.6Volts. So you can start the bike with the throttle open and the ECU will know when it is closed after the bike starts as soon as it sees 0.6Volts from the Throttle Position Sensor.

So I guess that means we should never believe anything a dealer tells us about EFI :drinking:
UHE needs a ******** filter :lol:

I start mine with the throttle closed too but sometimes give it a little throttle if it takes awhile to start.

Mark_Donovan said:

Many running concerns can be traced back to either idle settings or the throttle position sensor adjustment. The Throttle position sensor must read .6 volts with the ignition on but the engine off. This can only be determined with the XC1 tool.
Hope this helps.
Mark @ Shoals

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Personally i did'nt like the soft setting on my 570 .

I've had mine on the agressive setting for the last 100hrs and really dont see any reason to alter it .... great fun in the snow/ice at the moment with a worn out mitas :bounce3:

All the mapping switch does is change the ignition advance.

As Berger mentioned, in the soft setting the rear just doesn't spin up as fast. And I would add that the torque feels like it is still there.

I have a question............... Did you by any chance use the cold start knob when you started your bike, and possibly forget to push it back in before you rode?

And I do feel reticent about contradicting............ but, if there has been a substantial change in ambient conditions, E.G. altitude, air temp etc, since the last time the bike was ridden, one should start the bike and let it run for at least 5 mins for the ECM to place the itself correctly within the overall ignition/fueling map.

Now, the M.A.P. or manifold absolute pressure sensor acts a bit like a barometric pressure sensor, and that combined with the input from air temperature sensor, and the coolant temperature sensor, help the ECM to determine where shall we say the amount of fuel being delivered will fall in the given overall map profile.

The throttle position sensor is what makes everything happen quickly, as the MAP sensor input would be much to slow in it's signal for "riding" shall we say.

So, just to be clear, as I understand it, the map switch only changes the advance curve of the ignition. Soft = slow advance curve, standard is quicker, and aggressive is quicker yet.

If one buys the user setting tool, and gets the computer unlocked by their dealer, the only thing that can be changed is the amount of fuel delivered through a couple of different variables such as RPM, or Throttle position or both. The changes to the fueling are done by percentage's. Just down load the users manual for free from the Mother site and you'll see what I mean.

And yes, when changing a map, you have to turn the motor off and let it stop spinning for the new map to take.

Keep in mind that while you are riding, the ECM is constantly monitoring the air temperature, MAP, engine coolant, etc... and will always be adjusting the map while you are riding. That's why it always feels the same when you are riding. Unlike a carbed bike, where the throttle may feel nice and crisp when the bike is just up to operating temp, but starts to feel spongy when the bike gets hot-and gets richer and richer as the bike gets hotter.

The only thing that I am not clear on as far as the maps go is this. On the SEM ignition bikes of the last generation, there was a High/Low switch. This only changed the ignition curve below 5000 rpm. Above 5000 rpm the ignition curve was the same. So, on the new bike I'm not sure if the same holds true, b/c even in the soft map setting, the bike will still go really fast if you hold it pinned open.

Fortunately I don't seem to be having any fueling/mapping issues in any of the 3 selectable modes. I'm certainly no EFI expert but I just can't bring myself to believe that 'initializing' the ECU by letting the bike idle for a few minutes makes any difference. What kind of crappy EFI system takes 'minutes' to collate and use all the info from the numerous sensors and apply it to the fueling. Speed and accuracy of adjustment/operation is supposed to be one of the big advantages that EFI has over carbs. The OE MAP switch alters only the ignition curve which, Husaberg point out, means that you can alter your engine characteristics in seconds. Don't think they'd claim that if you have to faff about initializing the bike with a change in altitude or temperature etc. JMO.

pegscraper said:

Fortunately I don't seem to be having any fueling/mapping issues in any of the 3 selectable modes. I'm certainly no EFI expert but I just can't bring myself to believe that 'initializing' the ECU by letting the bike idle for a few minutes makes any difference. What kind of crappy EFI system takes 'minutes' to collate and use all the info from the numerous sensors and apply it to the fueling. Speed and accuracy of adjustment/operation is supposed to be one of the big advantages that EFI has over carbs. The OE MAP switch alters only the ignition curve which, Husaberg point out, means that you can alter your engine characteristics in seconds. Don't think they'd claim that if you have to faff about initializing the bike with a change in altitude or temperature etc. JMO.

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Try re reading my post again, that might clear things up a bit. The "faff" you're on about comes straight from Husaberg's tech school.

DaleEO said:

Try re reading my post again, that might clear things up a bit. The "faff" you're on about comes straight from Husaberg's tech school.

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Thank you for the info DaleEO, ive even copied and pasted in my word doc so I can print and show my mate as he doesn't understand either.
Cheers.

pegscraper said:

Fortunately I don't seem to be having any fueling/mapping issues in any of the 3 selectable modes. I'm certainly no EFI expert but I just can't bring myself to believe that 'initializing' the ECU by letting the bike idle for a few minutes makes any difference. What kind of crappy EFI system takes 'minutes' to collate and use all the info from the numerous sensors and apply it to the fueling. Speed and accuracy of adjustment/operation is supposed to be one of the big advantages that EFI has over carbs. The OE MAP switch alters only the ignition curve which, Husaberg point out, means that you can alter your engine characteristics in seconds. Don't think they'd claim that if you have to faff about initializing the bike with a change in altitude or temperature etc. JMO.

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I agree. It's just plain dumb if that is the way it works. I find it really hard to believe. It is certainly something that no other "Open Loop" EFI system I know needs. In fact, it defies the basic logic on how an "Open Loop" EFI system works.
Mine has never idled for 5 minutes. If I do get the opportunity to get a run on Tuneboys dyno I certainly will do a second run after letting the bike idle for 5 minutes and see if there is any difference in power. I would bet money there would be no difference.