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FE 570 new to me, could do with some input

Joined Jan 2009
236 Posts | 15+
Brisbane, Australia
Well guys,
Here’s a post I never thought I’d make…..seems I’ve purchased a 2012 fe 570 with literally no miles on…totally standard and that I’ll have to sell my beloved FE 550 sometime soon, if I can bare to part with it that is.

I wanted to get some advice from those of you that have the 570 on set up if you can spare some time, would appreciate your thoughts on the following:

a. Off – road gearing – I’m running 14 / 50 on the 550 and it’s spot on for single trail and transport sections
b. Any specific set ups (over standard) that you feel need to be looked at before serious dirt time

c. I’ll be race-teching front and rear suspension

d. Thoughts on steering damper…needed or not ?

e. No doubt a pipe will be in order, Ackro…?

f. Would be interested in what you find for fuel range (approx.), can get over 100k’s easy on my 550

g. What do I need to know about this bike

h. And if anyone is looking for a primo FE 550 that’s been shown more love than Elizabeth Taylor, talk to me, I want to find a good home for this bike, it’s been awesome

Cheers
 
Great luck to find that bike!
I've got an -12 450 setup for enduro. The things I did that were "none standard procedure" for a new bike was
* The weep hole fix. I have a friend who did it after 60-70 hrs and it looked real messy in there.
* Mount radiator fan
* Apply heat reflector under the tank.

your -12 should have the updated fuel pump and the 20micron fuel filter.


Regards
/3nduro
 
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I've had good success with my FMF Factory 4.1 slip-on silencer. If your bike still has the factory can, be advised that it is horribly restrictive and defies meaningful internal modification to improve flow. Believe me, I've tried my best. Get the factory race tune uploaded to your bike and remove the emission plumbing, and your bike will run as the engineers originally intended.

Also be advised that the factory fuel pump will eventually fail. My 2011 stranded me miles from home. If it hasn't been replaced already (as a factory redesign or by the previous owner), you might as well order the reengineered fuel pump from California Cycleworks and install it.

The fuel tank is very, very close to the middle section of the exhaust pipe and can really heat up the fuel - not good. My solution was to apply a layer of heat reflective material to the underside of the tank and to wrap the mid-pipe. Problem solved.

As delivered my 2011 FE570S was geared so tall that it would do 95 to 100 mph! I left the front sprocket alone, but opted for a bigger rear sprocket. A new chain was required.
 
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If you remove end cap on stock pipe and cut the step down part inside and remove screen from end cap works good for Me and cheap to. But not forestry approved the screen part. If only I could find 2012 570 with 0 miles your lucky
 
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I have two 2012 and no fuel pump issues. They changed them out -10 -11 if I remember right so they are just fine. Ofcourse one can always be unlucky.

The factory cans are alright. I guess different laws in different countries? I changed mine out to an akra so it can breath better on higher revs and it also release heat better. If you mostly do trails and transport I would save that money. Ofcourse what is the sound of the akra worth...? ;)

For sure you must remove all restrictions and install the race map!! It's a crippled moped until you do that.


And this my answers to your questions:

a. Off – road gearing – I’m running 14 / 50 on the 550 and it’s spot on for single trail and transport sections
- I use 13 / 52 and it works very good for enduro with transport sections. The 1st gear is a bit short with 13 so I will try 14 / 52. My friend use that and recommend it.

b. Any specific set ups (over standard) that you feel need to be looked at before serious dirt time
Look at that link I gave you earlier. Covers most of it. The -12 570 is very good out of the box.
c. I’ll be race-teching front and rear suspension
Good idea, I'm not to fond of stock suspension. Also make sure you have correct geometry as this bike will be so much better when it's correct for you and your weight. They are more sensitive than most bikes.
d. Thoughts on steering damper…needed or not ?
I say yes. Due to the bikes geometry and agile handling it can be a bit lively at higher speeds, especially on sand.
e. No doubt a pipe will be in order, Ackro…?
Stock can is actually quite good. You will not gain much hp, if any, with an expensive akra or fmf, unless you tune something else and need that extra flow. But I changed it out as it helps with releasing heat and it's a bit better for higher revs.
f. Would be interested in what you find for fuel range (approx.), can get over 100k’s easy on my 550
http://husaberg.org/fuel/11930-dual-sport-ride-fuel-milage.html
http://husaberg.org/husaberg/10891-fuel-milage-results-2010-fe570.html
g. What do I need to know about this bike
It's the last Husaberg designed by the Husaberg engineers. Sure it's made up of KTM components (that is a good thing) but the design is all husaberg. The 70 degree was a milestone, a peak for them. Your 2012 was the last one.

I went to a 2013 tryout and when the Husaberg representative heard that I have a 570 he looked angry at me and asked a bit upset if/why I was to change bike??? He told me I was not allowed to sell my 570 and if I was stupid enough to do it I had to call him first. Ofcourse I will never sell my 570, never, but I was just curious to test the blue tweaked KTMs. He quickly mumbled something that they didn't stop making them because they were bad, but because of economic business decisions.

The engine holds up very well. The material thickness in the engine cases are very thick compared to most bikes, so the crankcase bearings do not move much which leads to less wear. My friend just took his -09 with over 300 hours on it to service to a husaberg legend here in Sweden (Gert). All my friend ever did was to change oil in it. The valves were ok, the piston didn't need a change (he did it anyway as he already bought a new one) and the tolerances were in lower spectrum of what KTM accept when they sell them as new...

It is top heavy compared to KTMs and newer bikes, you notice that when you lay it down too much. But when you drive in balance it's very agile as the CG and rotating mass is more to the center of the bike. The centered rotating mass will also lessen the effect of cutting the throttle midcorner, or giving more gas. The bike keeps it's angle and turnradius. It's very easy to drive.
h. And if anyone is looking for a primo FE 550 that’s been shown more love than Elizabeth Taylor, talk to me, I want to find a good home for this bike, it’s been awesome
Hope you will find a good home for it! You wont need it anymore :)
 
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Both My 570's get 53 MPG on freeway. 35 MPG off-road light riding. 25 MPG if I'm on the Gas. One has modified stock pipe and other has aftermarket pipe both have mapping swith. The aftermarket pipe I can hold the revs longer from short corner to corner. If I had the money I'd have all 70d models. Said this before if you had told Me I'd have a 570 4 stroke (any big bore 4 stroke) I'd told You were High. When I ride them I'm 15 years old again.
 
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I've gotten fuel economy in the mid 50s when riding dirt and gravel roads at 40 to 45 mph in 5th gear.

Concerning the factory muffler, I made a succession of progressively aggressive modifications to the baffle and no matter how much material I removed it still hamstrung the engine. The factory design requires exhaust gasses to make two complete reversals in direction - two 180 degree turns. I contend that there is nothing you can do to improve it that will preserve its spark arrestor characteristics - an absolute must in my hot/dry northern Nevada environment.
 
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Great news and sound advice guys thank you. I'll take it all in an mod it up before I take it out for the first time. Figure I'll run a Barrett pipe, the one I've run on the 550 has been great. I'll try and fit the GPR unit from the 550 to the 570 and throw on some pivot pegs and Steg pegz for good measure.

The suspension will be a full Race tech make over, both front and rear as I did with the 550, bought great results. I'll get all this done before I head out for the first ride, dial in the suspension on a trail section I know well and see what the 570 brings me in grin factor over my much loved 550.

One question I do have, actually two...is there a link to removing restrictions / can you give me some advice and how do I go about getting / installing / flashing the factory race tune....apology for what seems a stupid question but remember...I'm coming from a Berg with a carb
 
This is what my dealer gave me in a plastic bag.

From left to right and where I think they were....:
1 - screen in end of muffler?
2 - catalytic converter in beginning of muffler?
3&4 - some emission control crap somewhere on the right side of cylinder head???
5 - restriction in the air box.

emissioncrap.jpg


Try to find all this and remove asap. If you find all this I'm quite sure you also have stock map. The only way to install the race map is to find a KTM/Husaberg/Husqvarna dealer with the programming tool and let they do it.
 
Thanks Jon, appreciate your help....so after I remove these things and get the bike ready to ride and get the race tune uploaded....is there still a need for one of the map switches in your opinion, or is it not required...?
 
Make your own. The KTM is overpriced and quite ****. All you need is the soft and aggressive setting. Soft on trails and aggressive on faster tracks and roads. You will find info about it on this site. It will only cost a few cents if you do it yourself.
And yes I recommend to do it as it is a difference. It's not much of a difference but if you forget the aggressive setting on and go out on a gnarly enduro track you will first wonder whats up until you realize why. The bike reacts more instant and the driving becomes more jumpy and difficult. When you go open road or on a MX track you will benefit from the aggressive setting. Not much but you will notice.

Speaking of which, I recommend to use a recluse if you do difficult trails. It changes the bike from a jumpy power machine to a nice and steady tank that calmly works its way wherever you point it. I would prioritize my money on that before a new muffler.
 
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...is there a link to removing restrictions

My recollection of the de-restricion is a bit hazy, the notes I have says...
change sprocket / chain
remove catalyst in the bend in/by the silencer
remove air cleaner
remove throttle stop by the injector. (NOTE; I'm uncertain if I actually did this or the reseller had my bike mixed up with an other type).
remove silencer spark protection.
replace map (reseller need to do this)

Bolt plugging the air cleaner hole.
2rykf0m.png


Silencer spark protection. Do note that you have a special tool in your Husaberg toolkit to remove it. I missed that and brute forced it.
2hs6rg5.png


Finally my bike came with an extra bolt that caused some confusion. Maybe your's got one too ;-)
1o6ck8.jpg
 
KTM 4-Stroke Dome Washer | Dirt Tricks


https://www.bulletproofdesigns.com/...roof-designs-husaberg-swingarm-guard-506.html

Gas Tank Fuel Pre-Filter Screen for KTM, Husaberg by Splitstream.

I would also recommend siliconing your plug wire to plug wire cap as this connection is not waterproof and also silicone the plastic weld seam of the throttle position sensor. Only use the tank wrap sparingly as it will create less airflow and more heat above engine.

It is crucial that the seat is always in the correct position. I believe many of us have installed it improperly one time or another (show of hands?) Otherwise it will deform and become more difficult to install thereafter.

+1 on the rekluse investment.
 
Great advice guys, I'm getting excited, any other input is always welcomed
 
i used a 1 1/4 in. 12 point socket to remove the silencer spark protection (see post #13) a 31 or 32mm 12 point socket should work. don't have one mm so i don't know.
 
Guys, at risk of starting a which oil is best discussion, (which I won't)....my plan will be to run the 570 on Caltex Delo 400, with oil and filter changes about every 400 Klms. I've run this program and this oil in my 550, all of it's life and it's worked very well, engine runs quiet, no failures, spotless inside. This oil I know was used by many on the forum for the older chassis bikes.

As far as service intervals go, is this what you guys are doing ?
 
Depending on what type of driving I done (high rev high speed, gnarly with a lot of clutch (recluse) or just cruising along) I change oil every 15th or 30th hour. Mostly every 15th hour. I use Motorex 10W60.

Maybe too often but I think better safe than sorry. I can't see when too many molecule chains are broken ;)
 
I agree Jon, One of the places I ride quite a lot for arguments sake means I run a loop of around 85 Klm's. It's just on 2 hours travel time and for most of that time I'm on the gas hard.

This would equal changing the oil about every 8-10 hours, which is what I've always done with my 550. Oil and filters are cheap....engines are aren't
 

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