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FE 450, 2005, Force Edition

i do it another way Ned, I punch the front face 3mm from the edge and make a bead all the way around. you can actually join the punch marks onto a a line and make it look like the wheel had a machined groove in it. I've not seen anyone else do this although I'm sure it isn't THAT novel.

your signature doesn't list any of the older Huseys you used to have?

regards

Taffy
 
I know about peening the inside of the hub but i find that its not a long term fix....anybody managed to fit a bush inside the hub?

I know i should have used quotes with nipples :D
 
your signature doesn't list any of the older Huseys you used to have
Click to expand...
it's not big enough
'98 fe600e
'98 fe400
'98 fe400e
'00 fe400e
'02 fe650e
'03 fe501e
'04 fe450e
'04 fe650e
'05 fe450e will be for sale next week
 
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As you may noticed I use this thread now for various things more or less related to Berg, as my bike has 0 (zero) mechanical problems for the moment.....biggest problem is not riding it often enough.

Anyways....there's this group on Facebook, "Andre Horvat's Enduroklassiker" and somebody posted a link to MX World collection....with some really nice pics....so here they are:

1. and 2. This is the first ever made Husaberg! Its changed from version 1 and now its version no 4. In version 3 and 4 the steering head was moved 12 mm forward and the swingarm Bolt was made 8mm higher than version 2. Thomas Gustavsson was ridning this prototype in a race in Sweden 1988 and wonderful the race. He was also european champion that year on a private Husqvarna.
From beginning the idea was that Husaberg should be red but just before produktion they changed and got blue/yellow.

3. Personalised handguards

4. and 5. Engine

6. Prototipe
This is a prototype engine made in 2003. Its made of 2 engine who was welded together. This is the first prototype engine of the laying 70° engine.
Jens Elmwall: design/construction
Christer Svensson: Werner
Roland Öhrn: rebuit and welded the chassi — in Vimmerby.

7. Prototype engine with turnén around cylinder head 1997.

8. All original drawings from start of the company


M.
 

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incredible! been here 15 years and the first time I've seen most of this.....

thanks for sharing!

Taffy
 
makazica said:
No problem...... I hoped that people would take part with more comments....maybe even some answers for the questions I have...













M.
Click to expand...
Im reading up this whole thread. And nice work, i must say! I got a 08 same same. And love to answer more but you seem to know more then me so would prolly make you fail. Anyways love tjena work and commitment you put into it! Keep it up.!
 
After 150 hrs I decided it's time to open it up.

Cam followers, cam, tappets look as new.

Auto cam chain tensioner has 3 clicks left out of 12. I figure it's time to change it. A bit dissapointed by this...hoped the expensive IWIS chain would hold up more than 150hrs.

I'll do the cam follower bearings, change the cam chain and slap it back together. Some other chassis work and greasing will be done.

Should I remove the decomp bolt? Haven't had problems with it...

Anything else?
 

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hello Makazica

it isn't the cam chain. at least I doubt it.

check that you have the black cam chain tensioner blade coded 82036002000.

you probably didn't notice it but when you put the chain in the first 12-12 clicks went with then!

you'll know if the cam chain is rubbish by laying the new one next to it....

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
hello Makazica

it isn't the cam chain. at least I doubt it.

check that you have the black cam chain tensioner blade coded 82036002000.

you probably didn't notice it but when you put the chain in the first 12-12 clicks went with then!

you'll know if the cam chain is rubbish by laying the new one next to it....

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...


The rear tensioner is part 80036001000.

I suppose you're talking about the front tensioner?

Anyways....too late....I've allready cut the camchain....
 
the IWIS has a split link.

no NOT the front blade, I'm on about the rear TENSIONER blade. this was upgraded in 2005 so I am guessing that you must have a 2004.

shame, nothing wrong with the chain, you just never noticed that half your adjustment was used even when the chain was new.

try and get the above, they are very cheap.

regards

Taffy
 
Iwis I got came with a link that needs to be riveted, maybe I can still use it with a new link?

What is the difference between old and new tensioner blade?
 
later is fatter so you start at click 1-the first click.

shouldn't fit a new split link on an old chain.

I wouldn't have supplied with a soft link so it is someone else's soft link.

regards

Taffy
 
So, moving on.

I got the other cam chain blade, part nr. 82036002000, the left one in the pic #1. It is longer than the one I had in the bike (part no. 80036002000) but it is not thicker.

When installed, the newer and longer one hardly clears the e-start cog (pic #2), and as you can see I'm pushing it hard with my finger through the cam chain tensioner hole.

Now I'm not sure which one to install.....
 

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First of all, I made a mistake in my last post. Obviously, part no. 82036002000 is right on the pic - the longer one and part no. 80036002000 is left in the pic - the shorter one.

@ Taffy.....interesting.... in your post from January 24th, 2016 10:36 AM you advised me to buy part no. 82036002000 stating its the correct one, needed and thicker.....

I bought this because of your advice, maybe should have double checked. My bad.

@ bushie....will do.

M.
 
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