FCR-MX 39 starting problem

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in case you haven't tried it, look closely at the ends of the battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter leads. sometimes the crimp is not good.
 
Still think it's the de-comp. Did you say you tried the manual de-comp? Can you get the motor spinning over quickly with it pulled?
 
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ned37 said:
in case you haven't tried it, look closely at the ends of the battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter leads. sometimes the crimp is not good.
Click to expand...

^^this happened to me.

The hot lead to the starter was degraded and just 1 strand of wire was attached to the ring terminal.
 
Well, I'm in the middle of making new wires just in case, nothing to lose. They do look very degraded, but a tester shows they are ok.

Never know if the crank bearings are wearing themselves out but I still don't believe it would it would not crank the engine. It kickstarts very easy.
 
degraded leads on an '05 i had would cause intermittent starting problems. testing is difficult because the problem only shows under high amp loads
 
ned37 said:
degraded leads on an '05 i had would cause intermittent starting problems. testing is difficult because the problem only shows under high amp loads
Click to expand...

I made all new wires just in case. It did not help, but thanks for the advice. They did seem to be heading towards the end of their lifespan but they were still complete and working.

Now when I've tried everything, there is no choice but to hope that a new auto decomp spring will do it.
 
I did check my valves again, and there was something fishy going on.

My exhaust valve clearance was HUGE. After re-adjusting, the flat screw is way deeper inside the locknut than before and compared to the intake valves. This worries me. Makes me think if my valves are not seated properly.
 
that's because you are trying to adjust when at tdc exhaust, not compression. it's a 4 stroke, you get 2 tdc's. turn crank clockwise thru opening and closing of INTAKE valves and then to tdc . adjust there.
 
bent valves effectively sit the valve further away from their seats. the way to tell is simply to take the headers off and with the engine at TDC on the comp stroke just poor some white spirit down an exhaust port. doesn't have to be a lot!

could you have been sold shorter valves are valves bigger than the 30mm you required?

regards

Taffy
 
I always have done the valve adjustment at TDC-C, that is why I'm confused. Never had this before, and I've done the operation countless times.

I need to take a closer look, something is wrong. Taffy, I will do something like that to find out if it is bent. The valves are the same when I bought this bike, so I don't know the specs. I ordered some gaskets from Taffy too to play around with.
 
I'm actually considering taking the whole head off and see everything is okay. It's not a bad idea since it has been unopened for years, so before it blows the whole engine if something is wrong with the head, timing chain etc.

Maybe take it to a bikeshop if it seems bad.
 
the 450s are dropping the heads off the exhausdt valves or the single valve springs are breaking. peple cheapskate and fit only one new exhaust valve and so the other head falls off! it is the fault of the "percussion" from the single valve springs and only happens to the 450. not even one 550 or 650 so it is revs related as well.

not to say it is this but so that others change their exhaust valves and their springs soon enough. I have two blown 450 ewngines here now and what with some liner and jetting troubles I am sick 'n tired at the mo with 450s....

I'll get over it....

Taffy
 
Thanks Taffy, good to know. I think I hassled last time to put back the valve cover. I will take a real deep look inside the valves and springs next week and see for anything you suggested.
 
It all feels funny afterwards, but now that I took apart the valvecover, I found 2-3mm clap in my exhaust cam follower bearing. There's my problem. I missed it earlier.

Is it difficult to change ? The bearing itself is quite expensive but no options.
 
go to the new wiki at the top of the page and you will find info under engine upgrades.
easy to replace. i use a vise and a small pin as a drift
 
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Thanx I tried to remove the old according to advices but the pin was so worn out a needle bearing got stuck immediately in between that the rocker arm went to the bin. I did't find a good way for this to not happen, a feeler did't help. Have to really congratulate myself but lesson learned.

Inlet bearing came off easy, since the pin was 2mm less worn :D
 
Thanks for all the help I've received guys. And thanks Taffmeisters for parts supply. Just got the bike all ready and fired up. Seems to work well, cranks like a dream with the starter. Just need to get some miles on it and keep cautious for a while, look out for leaks n stuff.
 

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