Engine strip and rebuild

Jak · Mar 3, 2010

hello all,
Im new to this site and registerd so i can sap you all of your knowlage of these awsome machines, basically i have little knowlage of the guts of a berg but am wanting to learn. My berg has started smoking and tappig a bit so decided to have a go at stripping her down and rebuild her back up with any parts she needs. This will be a running thread of how im getting on and updated regularly with pics and any probs i have. This is where all you enthusiasts will hopefully also add your contribution and help me out i hope.
ATB Jak

BelgiqueBasterd · Mar 3, 2010

Good luck, and remember, the 'search' button is your friend, ton's of topics on this forum on just about everything Husaberg!

plumbbob · Mar 3, 2010

Welcome to the gang Jak and all the best with your strip and rebuild,

carl

Jak · Mar 3, 2010

Cheers all,
yesterday i took the engine out the bike and started stripping the cylinder head casing off

so far so good im just waiting to get the tool to remove the rivets from the chain to carry on, is there anything in perticulear that i should be looking for at this stage regards to wear or damage? you will have to forgive me im a totall noob.
The chain tensioner seemed to have alot of wear is this normal/ok?

ATB Jak

BelgiqueBasterd · Mar 4, 2010

Check the link on the side 'owner's doc' load's of info there, about the tensioner a good upgrade is using the later style camchain guide wich is fatter, you do have to cut of the aluminium head of off the tensioner to make it work, but anyway, check the 'doc' lot's of info in there!

Jak · Mar 5, 2010

cheers mate thanks for the input, i have already printed most of the documents and info off that i could fine to help me i was just wondering if anyone has any other tips and advice. Right i dont even know the model or cc of my bike i know its a 2002 because it says on the top of my rocker cover is there anyway of finding out what cc or model it is. someone at work sugested to me to get the piston to the bottom of the barrel and fill the cylinder will water because one ml = one cc is this correct?
ATB Jak

bushmechanic · Mar 5, 2010

http://www.google.com.au/search?q=water ... sgOc3tWbBQ

Jak · Mar 5, 2010

CC ENGINE
CC or cubic centimeters refers to engine capacity. Specifically it refers to the amount of air/fuel mixture able to fit into the cylinders (where combustion occurs) at full expansion. 1 cc is equivalent to 1 gram of water aka 1 ml. An example: 250 cc engine means the cylinders with pistons at full expansion can hold a volume of 250 ml of air/fuel mixture prior to the combustion stroke

so yes it is correct then.

Taffy · Mar 5, 2010

Jak

i know you got that explanation from a book and it's not your fault but that explanation is bollokcs!

a cylinder holds the swept volume of the piston (known as the cubic capacity of that one cylinder) and the area over the piston known as the combustion chamber. so someone got that bit totally wrong.

we always used to call it "the swept volume" and i've seen no reason to change my mind now!

a typical old jalopy from the 30-50s in usa might have a cylinder swept volume of 1,000cc and a compression ratio of just 7.6 to 1 which makes the combustion area 150cc. so with the piston at the bottom the whole cylinder will hold 1150cc.

thats a little bit different to that quoted.

regards

Taffy

BelgiqueBasterd · Mar 5, 2010

650 cases

bushmechanic · Mar 5, 2010

450 case # starts 810
550 ........ 815
650 .........820

if its a 650 measure the stroke to find out if its got a 644 (82mm) or if soemones put a newer 628 (80mm) crank in it

head looks old so it should be 644 if its a "650"

bottom line is it doesn't matter till it comes apart anyway and then you'l know ..............

popup · Mar 5, 2010

you got the head off..why don't you just measure the stroke.they are all 100mm pistons,it is just the stroke that changes.
its the swept volume you want ,not with the combustion chamber area added on.
pi radius squared by height. eg 50x50xpi(3.14)x82=643.7cc(644cc is my motor)
in that eg of what you done taffy,how did you come up with 150cc combustion chamber?
1000 divide by 7.6=131.6? is that how you done it? or have i got it wrong?
..weed..

Taffy · Mar 6, 2010

1000cc plus what the combustion chamber holds (150cc) equals 1150cc. now divide the 150 (what you end up with) into the start number (1150) and you get 7.66 for 7.7 to 1 compression.

644 plus 50 = 694. 694 divided by 50 = 13.9 to 1 compression. this is what husaberg claim and also what i have found. it is rare for 'claimed' to equal 'real'. I wish it were less and it held 56cc etc because then my pistons would be ace-o-lux.

regards

taffy

Jak · Mar 7, 2010

cheers for all the help guys i have been beavering away steadily with my engine i have managed to get the cylinder head off and clutch casing heres a few pics.

the pistons got some scoring on the top of it does anyone have an idea what would have causes this because the barrel hasnt got a scratch on it.
and afew pics of the complete bike before i started any work on her

Jak · Mar 7, 2010

I have also stripped the rockers from there caseing the four brass bushes were a nightmare to get out in the end i had to drill them out and tap and cave them in with a punch. The two rollers that i took out suprised me i thought they would have been a complete bearing instead the needles were loose and ended up all over my shed floor, these where the ones i gave you a pm about taffy.

Whoever had had the engine apart last time had centre punched the shaft in for the rollers personally i thought this was a bit rough or is it the way to do it?

Taffy · Mar 7, 2010

how bad are the pins? i can't see from here.

regards

Taffy

Jak · Mar 7, 2010

There was a bit of play in them before i took them out mate, so i need then newer black tensioner, the two rollers and the four followers from you taff

Taffy · Mar 7, 2010

email or call tomorrow fella thanks. all in stock.

regards

taffy

Jak · Mar 8, 2010

I have stripped the clutch away,

I have also stripped the kickstart mechanism, can i do away with the decompression lever alltogether because i never use it?

I have also taken the gear selecting assemby apart im a bit worried about when it comes to putting this part back together that i wont get it right with all the pins and so on, in the manual it talked about one of the pins being flat toped and this is the neutral but i couldnt see it?

Taffy · Mar 9, 2010

you can get rid of the kickstart decomp only if you have a 2004+ auto decomp on the cam. until then it must stay.

the neutral position is fairly easy. it is the next scollop down from the one that the sprung wheel is sat in in the photos. turn the star till it's in the raised scollop and then turn the clutch and output shafts seperately - that's neutral!

regards

Taffy

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