Cheers taffy thing is i have took the pins out without marking which one was neutral like a goon so i have no idea now, did you get my email mate?
atb Jak
atb Jak
popup said:
I still havent worked out the cc, to measure the stroke do you put the piston to the bottom of the cylinder and measure inside to the top face of the cylinder? if so i did this and it was 60mm
50x50x3.14x60=471000
so does that make it a 470?
so it must be an fc470e cheers guys
atb Jak
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
you kinda f.... u. but you don't have to fret over it. stick all the pins in and then turn the drum using a bolt in the middle and a socket/T-bar etcetra all the way clockwise to the very end, then come back a teeny click. somewhere just back from the end of rotation the two shafts will spin freely and that is neutral. mark the place and get the bolt out and the star in. with the star in and the sprung wheel in the scollop the shafts should spin independently.
regards
Taffy
regards
Taffy
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
if i checked the CC it would be to rest a verniers heel on the headgasket (not the top of the cases/liner) and measure down to the minimum at TDC and the maximum at BDC. that is your stroke. also always do it over the gudgeon pin and not front or back. however, it does sound like you have a 470. :| :|
no email?
regards
Taffy
no email?
regards
Taffy
yeah like taffy says ,you want to measure tdc to bdc.
i'm not familiar with other husaberg motors,but the 644cc @ tdc with a 134mm conrod was 3mm down from top of liner or case & with the 135mm conrod came to 2mm below top of liner or case height.
i take it jak, that tdc is level with top liner?
fwiw i haven't ran a cam decomp or a kick starter decomp for over 3 years now & wont be changing it.if you have electric start,for sure run the cam decomp.
i just run the manual decomp off the handlebars.
i found i was having trouble finding tdc with the other 2 decomps.it seemed to be decomping when i didn't want it to,then i would have to kick it through the stroke again.
many times i have locked it up & stalled half way through a corner,if i still have a bit of pace up or a downhill just flick the manual decomp & she fires straight back up with minimal time lost,but.... each to their own i suppose.
..weed..
i'm not familiar with other husaberg motors,but the 644cc @ tdc with a 134mm conrod was 3mm down from top of liner or case & with the 135mm conrod came to 2mm below top of liner or case height.
i take it jak, that tdc is level with top liner?
fwiw i haven't ran a cam decomp or a kick starter decomp for over 3 years now & wont be changing it.if you have electric start,for sure run the cam decomp.
i just run the manual decomp off the handlebars.
i found i was having trouble finding tdc with the other 2 decomps.it seemed to be decomping when i didn't want it to,then i would have to kick it through the stroke again.
many times i have locked it up & stalled half way through a corner,if i still have a bit of pace up or a downhill just flick the manual decomp & she fires straight back up with minimal time lost,but.... each to their own i suppose.
..weed..
I just wanted to replace a broken gear selector and it turned into a rebuild.
Look at what an over-stretched cam chain can do and can anyone tell me if the piston and sleeve need replacing?
Cheers.[attachment=0:1fojsjmy]Piston.JPG[/attachment:1fojsjmy][attachment=1:1fojsjmy]Cylender.JPG[/attachment:1fojsjmy][attachment=2:1fojsjmy]Damage from Cam-Chain.JPG[/attachment:1fojsjmy]
Look at what an over-stretched cam chain can do and can anyone tell me if the piston and sleeve need replacing?
Cheers.[attachment=0:1fojsjmy]Piston.JPG[/attachment:1fojsjmy][attachment=1:1fojsjmy]Cylender.JPG[/attachment:1fojsjmy][attachment=2:1fojsjmy]Damage from Cam-Chain.JPG[/attachment:1fojsjmy]
Attachments
Just received the cylinder head from Taffmeisters. It had a full rebuild. Now reassembly;
I've aligned the two dots on the gears, the piston is now at the NEW TDC and the cam is on with the lobes pointing up at 11 and 1 o'clock. I hope that this is right!
I've posted pictures of the settings, I just need confirmation.
Cheers
I've aligned the two dots on the gears, the piston is now at the NEW TDC and the cam is on with the lobes pointing up at 11 and 1 o'clock. I hope that this is right!
I've posted pictures of the settings, I just need confirmation.
Cheers
Attachments
*******! Engine rebuilt, bolted together and then I found a small needle roller bearing on the work bench and I don't know where it goes.
The starter clutch has it's bearings at both ends, so does the sprag. I've looked on the parts manual and the service manual to try and find where it goes. No luck.
It's the same size as the one in the casing that the starter clutch fits into.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Can't believe this....Typical..! :angry:
The starter clutch has it's bearings at both ends, so does the sprag. I've looked on the parts manual and the service manual to try and find where it goes. No luck.
It's the same size as the one in the casing that the starter clutch fits into.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Can't believe this....Typical..! :angry:
Thanks Guys, it slotted right in, happy days. :cheers:
Now to sort out that Rats-Nest of wiring. :angry:
Now to sort out that Rats-Nest of wiring. :angry:
:cheers: Thanks to you all for your help. Taff thanks for the good work. The bike fired up first time on the button and sounds sweet.
I can't wait to take it out for a spin.
Clint...
I can't wait to take it out for a spin.
Clint...
One gentile test ride after top-end rebuild. Oil and filter change and then one race now it won't start. Sprague is just spinning and it's had a Taffmeister's fix. I don't understand, could it be fully senth oil causing this? Putoline 10w50 API SL, JASO MA2.
Help.
Help.
No, I couldn't start it on the kick either.
I took the spark plug out to remove any compression and the sprauge still spins.
I took the spark plug out to remove any compression and the sprauge still spins.
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