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Delorto carb

Joined Jan 2014
11 Posts | 0+
My first Husaberg and i think the first delorto i've ever messed with. (96 501)
It doesn't want to start without priming it. Carb is clean although the slide is kinda loose.It has auto comp release, i don't much care for it although it works like it should...It will get set up manual later today. Checked valve lash, killer spark, i can kick it over by hand with the plug out and spark is dark blue,idle mix is happy @ 1 3/4. I didn't think to much of it, i didn't have the carb to air box boot and i have been running it on a bottle.I found a decent fuel pump yesterday and figured out the fuel line deal,(that was interesting) boot showed up, i figured a few laps up and down the street to clean it out it would be good to go. It won't even throttle shut/hot start.My first kick starting drill, the one that has worked on every 4 stroke i ever worked on doesn't even work. Cold start, fuel/choke on, pull compression release, depress kill switch and kick it through 3-5 times depending on temp. 5 kicks will cover temps in the 30* Roll it around to barely past tdc and boot it.. Not on this deal...it takes an oz of fuel down the plug hole and 6 kicks at half throttle.

I read here that Delortos aren't as cool guy as they sound,,they were ok new and went downhill from there..it works fine once it's running....although idle rpm wanders around a little.I know where a 38mm delorto round slide is and it's plenty tight. Is there a best replacement for this deal?....I still have a model 54 bing around someplace..lol
This thing should be ok on 91 octane, right? Same fuel i run in my boat 11.5-1 427 chev and 40* timing.
thanx
mike
Oh.....the clutch...it has half the lever pull of any bike i ever worked on but it doesn't slip.i pulled the lever when i first got it and figured the clutch was junk but it hooks up fine...how they do that?
 
I have juste recondirioned a 1995 FC501 carb with the flatslide yesterday and today.

I did the tappets, set the ignition timing at halfway, and then set about the carb. what a mess!

buckled 'feet' on the float levers
no choke jet at all
no CD1 jet
no spring on the mixture screw
worn out needle
worn out atomiser
fuel valve
the float valve arm and pin were fighting so I drilled the tunnel out and now it is sorted.

started first kick

took a great deal of subtle changes it starts first ick everytime, came here as a non-runner.

I sell dell orto spruce up kits if you want one get in touch

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
I have juste recondirioned a 1995 FC501 carb with the flatslide yesterday and today.

I did the tappets, set the ignition timing at halfway, and then set about the carb. what a mess!

buckled 'feet' on the float levers
no choke jet at all
no CD1 jet
no spring on the mixture screw
worn out needle
worn out atomiser
fuel valve
the float valve arm and pin were fighting so I drilled the tunnel out and now it is sorted.

started first kick

took a great deal of subtle changes it starts first ick everytime, came here as a non-runner.

I sell dellorto spruce up kits if you want one get in touch

regards

Taffy
It runs fine, it just takes a squirt of fuel down the spark plug hole to get it to start...even warm. Squirt it, 4-5 kicks with compression release and kill switch on and 1/4 throttle and it will light 1-3 kicks with the throttle mostly shut. Seems to make decent power, it has a healthy hit about 5-6k...haven't let it rev yet.


I disconnected the kick start decomp. cable and hooked up a lever....something seems different than xr 6/tt5/dr5 i have had...I can start my buddies yz400f with my hands if it's warm.. Kick it through until it hits compression, pull the lever and bump it past tdc, lever out and kick it and sometimes 3/4 of the way through it just stops...did it with the kickstart release too...right when the auto would disengage it would stop

Choke on should increase rpm warm motor?....That doesn't sound right to me...

No, haven't checked the timing yet, don't think i have a puller for the rotor and i'm not real clear on how to set it. From what i get the rotor isn't keyed to the crank? Timing is set by where the rotor is installed?

To just check it i should be able to tdc it with a dial indicator, mark the wheel, match the mark on the case and check it with an adjustable timing light? And it has some kind of advance in it? Base timing and reved up?

Baffles me it won't restart hot without priming it, there should be enough fuel left in the intake track and on the piston to fire the cylinder at least twice.

Idle mix screw is on the air filter side so it controls air, correct? In is rich? The jet with the tube is low speed jet and the other one that i can't find on the carb diagram...looks like a holley jet #35..that's a start/choke jet?
thanx
mike
How does the pin for the float pivot come out? Grind the blank side and tap it through?
 
I'll have one more go at saving you from yourself fella and then I'm out of here!

you get a set of broad nosed pliers and grab the pin at one corner of the pliers and with them sideways. use the other end as a fulcrum on the alloy post and twist the pin out like when you remove a nail with the claw end of a claw (carpenter's) hammer. do it in 'little grabs' and you'll be OK.

the screw in the side of the carb is an air screw or a pilot screw and I think it is a pilot screw as I don't have the carb in front of me now.

the 35 will be the pilot jet.

regards

Taffy
 
Got it....thanx much! This bike is a little different compared to what i'm used to. Got the start routine figured out, it's a 2 kick max deal. I did goof, didn't notice the missing bolt for the head, down below the exhaust port. Have it back together as soon as soon as shop gets done with a cleanup on the head. I guess timing chain with a master with c clips is OEM? Looked like the master link is necessary to get the cam out?
thanx again
mike
 
you have to break the chain to remove it. the cam can be got out without breaking the chain though if very careful.

I do chains...

Taffy
 
So master link with 'c' clips is OEM? Last person i know who used a master on a cam chain had to buy 20 new valves for a CBX. I installed it with 2 fresh c clips and a dab of 3m 08001. The head took a .020 cut the get it flat again. Without the head bolt below exhaust ports it was pushing compression out the front of the motor. Head gasket looked ok so i mopped some permetex aviation sealer on both sides a put it back together. Dam thing has started first kick 5 times in a row now.
Thanx all! This site has been major help, info is plenty limited.
 
SoldHondaBoughtHondo said:
So master link with 'c' clips is OEM? Last person i know who used a master on a cam chain had to buy 20 new valves for a CBX. I installed it with 2 fresh c clips and a dab of 3m 08001. The head took a .020 cut the get it flat again. Without the head bolt below exhaust ports it was pushing compression out the front of the motor. Head gasket looked ok so i mopped some permetex aviation sealer on both sides a put it back together. Dam thing has started first kick 5 times in a row now.
Thanx all! This site has been major help, info is plenty limited.

the berg OEMs are rivet links, the IWIS and the DID come with rivet links from KTM

the DID chain is the lightest chain is half the price of the IWIS and just as good

the DID is a bit longer than the IWIS and has smaller machined full rollers (as opposed to the split rollers of the IWIS) which has lead people to believe it wears out quicker.. however in OZ at least, our experience with both cam chains has them as being equal in durability if you consider the starting point of "adjustment"

the old Regina chains are the shortest
 
My Advice, change the Dellorto for a Keihin MX FCR 41 or 39. I had the same trouble, kept on plying with jetting, float levels, needle etc. If running it is good, but the starting is a bitch. Since i changed the Carb to Keihin, just one kick, cold or warm no difference. It is a joy to crank it now :)
 
Sorry, but I reckon those dellotos are great. On advice from the usa a bike shop asked me to test a set up kein alternative. Idled and started great, but nothing apart from that as good. I changed back to the dellorto. Flat slides wear, but round slides just need new jets and needles once a year. Easy to work on simple and more power. With the round slide starting. Throttle shut, choke on, decom left alone, kick three times slowly over, then set to top dead centre and push kick over with weight not a snappy kick. Of course make sure valves and ignition good?
 
I can't believe the condition that dell ortos get into. most home mechanics wreck this fine jewel like piece of equipment. rebuilt properly it isn't too bad.

I had a south african point out on here the bill I presented him for reconditioning his 1997 roundslide carb. but for all the bits I was fitting I was also working on that carb and I reckon I did 5 hours work.

do a nice job and they run sweet.

regards

Taffy
 
fe600racer said:
Sorry, but I reckon those dellotos are great. On advice from the usa a bike shop asked me to test a set up kein alternative. Idled and started great, but nothing apart from that as good. I changed back to the dellorto. Flat slides wear, but round slides just need new jets and needles once a year. Easy to work on simple and more power. With the round slide starting. Throttle shut, choke on, decom left alone, kick three times slowly over, then set to top dead centre and push kick over with weight not a snappy kick. Of course make sure valves and ignition good?
That's pretty close to where i am at, 4 kicks on manual comp. release with choke on, ignition off, then TDC no choke ignition on and push it through and it will light most every time....

Is a 38 delorto round slide work as well as a flat slide? You said more power?

Although kind of odd on a hot start, TDC and push it through and it will usually start,but if it doesn't light first kick it will not ever start without the 4 kick/choke deal. It's like it won't pull enough fuel with the k-start to fire it. It has enough fuel left in the cylinder on shutdown to fire the cylinder about one time, if i miss, that fuel is gone and the only way to get more fuel is choke circuit...It won't hot start more than twice in a row either. Thinking bigger start jet? It has a 35, i am @ 500 ft. altitude and 50-60*.

Ran a gal. and a half of gas through it today, carb is not real smooth right off idle, probably just me. Don't know what the gearing is but 1st is almost worthless, it has enough torque to pull at least one more tooth on the counter shaft.

And hey, thanx guys for all the help, it's been a while but i worked @ Bills Boneyard in salt lake city for 6+ years. M/C Salvage/repair/construction. There was a time when we had over 2000 bikes in the yard, not one of them was ever a Husaberg, my Delorto experience is limited to an HD 250 sprint and an Italian mini-bike, Asian thumpers are stupid simple and mostly bulletproof.....Besides anybody can buy a newer Yam/Hon 4 stroke....i spent a little over $400 so far....and ya,i'll order a new cam chain tomorrow.
Thanx again!
mike
 
yes Ned but only after he has refurbed the carb mate! cart and horse, cart and horse son!!! :D :D

Taffy
 
Taffey/fe600racer...i heard ya....round slide....round side....I have a bud said he had a 38 round delorto...took 2 hours last night digging through mikuni/kehin an SU...bottom of a pile where it had been for close too 10 years...sealed in a bag....took it all apart...waste of time, it was ready to run.Has 35/50/195 for brass..couldn't read the needle without mag glass but it is fairly fresh...a bit hard to start, time for fresh plug. It doesn't even sound like the same bike. Idle rpm is dead stable...some of the off idle hit that made it hard to ride low speed is gone and it pulls clean smooth and fast till redline...Good thing i have a fresh rear tire, what was left of the one i have is now on the street in front of the house...spinning one tire and packin the other...weeee fun!
Glad ya said delorto round slide, i had my choice of any carb he has...i can't see it running any better than it does now....
thanx much! :cheers:
 
Both round and flat are non pump carbs. The flat is better for power as the slide is like a shutter and fuel gets sucked in in volume. They fit in the berg where the kein gets placed with difficulty. Once you get the manual you tend to enjoy jetting with ease. They have good tricks for jetting and you can quickly change jets without the access problems with kein. The rough fluffy idle you need to keep otherwise they flame out too easily. With a dellortto it is about the throttle being open not messing about near closed. The flat slides wear though making too much chance of flame out. You need to find and keep a stock of them. The round slide was used as it doesn't wear much apart from the needle and brass jets. The kein idles better and when using throttle timidly is easier to live with. Parts are more available also. I would not change what the bike comes with whether kein or dellortto.
 
ned37 said:
carb is not real smooth right off idle
if what you mean is that it comes on too quick, you need to open up the slide cutaway.
I think i need a little of that, power right off idle is very abrupt. I did 22mi yesterday a lot of it in steep up-hills with loose shale. Traction was hard to find, spin the tire, close the throttle and as soon as i would open it again it would just spin again...First 1/8th of throttle opening not smooth at all, can't ride at steady speed. It's better than it was with the flat slide but still pia. Other than that the round slide is spot on. Is it something i can do with a disc sander? More angle on the bottom/backside of the slide and leave the initial opening alone? Dont want to change anything else, even if it just moved the hit to a little higher rpm. Really surprised at the bottom end power this thing has. Don't know the spec on the cam other than "C" But a roller cam in a big block chev. with a cam lobe like that has a soggy/doggy bottom end until 5k rpm. The roller cam in my boat with a little 427 has .700 lift and 285 @.050 duration and i don't think i would even run on the street, it does nothing until 4000rpm.
thanx
mike
 

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