Joined Mar 2005
514 Posts | 6+
Sunset desert/ Murray River. S.A/Victoria Australi
Only problem with the circular ones is you have to have the tool ID matched to your web O.D.
Fine if you work on 1 or 2 crank types, but if you are a multi brand engine repairer who works on all diameter full circle or "pork chop" cranks there is a better universal style that fits all styles and sizes of crank that actually holds your mains shafts in perfect alignment.
If I can find a pic I'll post it up for you
Fine if you work on 1 or 2 crank types, but if you are a multi brand engine repairer who works on all diameter full circle or "pork chop" cranks there is a better universal style that fits all styles and sizes of crank that actually holds your mains shafts in perfect alignment.
If I can find a pic I'll post it up for you
Joined Mar 2005
514 Posts | 6+
Sunset desert/ Murray River. S.A/Victoria Australi
Here you go Taff- not the exact one I was thinking of, but works on the same principle
http://www.justatv.com/pages/tools_cran ... anks14.jpg
The one I was thinking of only used 2 linear shafts for the moving plate to float on- the 3 linear shaft version should be better again.
Extremely pricey, but I would bet a local engineering firm could knock up a copy much much much cheaper.
The 2 linear shaft one was claimed by some that the cranks that came out of it required no or minimal truing due to its construction quality and tolerances
http://www.justatv.com/pages/tools_cran ... anks14.jpg
The one I was thinking of only used 2 linear shafts for the moving plate to float on- the 3 linear shaft version should be better again.
Extremely pricey, but I would bet a local engineering firm could knock up a copy much much much cheaper.
The 2 linear shaft one was claimed by some that the cranks that came out of it required no or minimal truing due to its construction quality and tolerances
Joined Mar 2005
514 Posts | 6+
Sunset desert/ Murray River. S.A/Victoria Australi
Taffy said:
Simple Taff
The 2 triangular plates have holes bored in their centres- you use the adapter spigots in these holes to match the shaft size of your crank (30mm)
You lift the top plate off of the 3 linear shafts, and place one crank web in with the pin alreadyinstalled , in the bottom plate, with your flywheel mounting shaft poking through the adapter bush.
Then simply place the 2nd web into the top plate (primary gear shaft thru adapter bush), and place it back on the linear shafts.
Then simply place it in a press and press the crank together to the right width. The jig makes sure your cranks centreline through the mains mounting shafts is in perfect alignment.
Hope that explains it better
Joined Dec 2004
2K Posts | 248+
back in cottonwood, az
all i ever used was two flat machined steel bars about 6" long from my boring machine. i set up the crank half with the pin installed, loaded the bearing and rod, placed the top crank half on, eyeballing alignment and lightly applied pressure to start the pin, then put my flat steels on each side of the crank and nudged the top until both sides sat flat on the bars, then press away. finish truing was done using two small bearings on right angle steel that i mounted on a wheel truing stand so that you could run the crank on the bearings while measuring the runout at the end. adjustment was made using a good size brass hammer to fine tune the crank wheels. very low cost investment.
my grandad could press cranks with a bottle jack, a vice, a straight edge and square, best bike mechanic i ever know rip
taff if you get me a drawing ill make you one that will last forever mate, made loads of em, can make it to fit your press too if you incorporate that into your drawing, a small marking out table makes things easy i find crank buliding dead easy, but i do things like that every day (mechanical engineer)
its the rest of the gubbins i get stuck on lol!!
taff if you get me a drawing ill make you one that will last forever mate, made loads of em, can make it to fit your press too if you incorporate that into your drawing, a small marking out table makes things easy i find crank buliding dead easy, but i do things like that every day (mechanical engineer)
its the rest of the gubbins i get stuck on lol!!
Joined Mar 2005
514 Posts | 6+
Sunset desert/ Murray River. S.A/Victoria Australi
ned37 said:
Yep, and thats virtually the same as how I do it currently.
However, I can see the value in using the jig style because it virtually eliminates the need to true the crank after assembling (although it still pays to check) so we dont need to pound on the webs quite so much with our brass and copper hammers .
If I were doing cranks on a commercial basis, I wouldnt hesitate to source tools to simplify and quicken the task, however for someone like me who is lucky to do 1 a year its not a justifiable return on investment- Not at the price on the commercially available units anyway.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
hey
i'm sure a cart of hay for that can be arranged!!!!
do you need the outside diameter of the flywheels?
as it happens, i have the following here in bits:
my 400 crank = 122.94mm
a lithuanian's 470 crank =124.78mm
benmoto's 501 crank which = 127.96mm
keiran's 550 ('04+) crank = 128.10mm
a lad from crawley's 650 ('04+) = (coming apart on tuesday)
regards
Taffy
i'm sure a cart of hay for that can be arranged!!!!
do you need the outside diameter of the flywheels?
as it happens, i have the following here in bits:
my 400 crank = 122.94mm
a lithuanian's 470 crank =124.78mm
benmoto's 501 crank which = 127.96mm
keiran's 550 ('04+) crank = 128.10mm
a lad from crawley's 650 ('04+) = (coming apart on tuesday)
regards
Taffy
ill get me thinking cap on when im recovering from my massive sunday dinner my mrs aint gonna make me im also gonna need diameter of either drive shaft or flywheel stub shaft so that i can make it sit in nice and flush for pressing, and also dimensions for con rods so i can make a slot to keep it in one place, ie tdc postion when your pushing it back together. ill make you a trial one for the next crank your going to do if you like, should only take me a couple of days
im also gonna need diameter of either drive shaft or flywheel stub shaft so that i can make it sit in nice and flush for pressing, and also dimensions for con rods so i can make a slot to keep it in one place, ie tdc postion when your pushing it back together. ill make you a trial one for the next crank your going to do if you like, should only take me a couple of days
Joined Mar 2005
514 Posts | 6+
Sunset desert/ Murray River. S.A/Victoria Australi
grasstrackpete said:
Thanks for the offer pete, but I have the use of lathe, mill and surface grinder and the necessary skills to knock one up myself.
Taffy said:
Taffy,
Given all the different crank ODs you have posted up I wouldn't even consider the circular style ones- you will need a different one for every different Husaberg crank....
Ask grasstrack pete to build you a copy of the one I supplied in the link-it will do virtually every crank you will encounter just by a change of the adapter sleeves.
If you plan on using it on Bergs only, you wouldnt even need the adapter sleeves as the shafts are all 30 mm
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