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Carburetor Tuning

Yeah I really want to try the K51 needle. While being paranoid about running lean, I also hate the idea of wasting more fuel than I have to. Even though a richer condition generally makes more power (12-13:1 air:fuel ratio), like you said earlier, this bike already has plenty of power. I'd rather save the fuel and increase my range even if the difference is small. Anything past 3/4 throttle might as well be tuned rich though as you obviously aren't trying to save gas.

After reading starting methods, I think I found one suggested by Taffy that works really well. I turn on the choke, kick it through about 2 times with ignition off, turn off the choke, and then fire it up. Surprisingly enough, my bike won't run with the choke on (cold) even with a 35 PJ and one turn out of the mixture screw. I'll probably try a 33 PJ as I have one laying around and I'm not getting any popping during deceleration or a hunting idle. Either that or decrease the start jet size, but for right now everything works well.
 
Hi lee

Remember that in cold with the choke on, the start jet is the main influence, the PJ also but the start jet makes major diference.

The bike with choke on doesn't work ? What do you mean by that ? Doesn't start or doesn't run for long ? Is it rich or poor ? Does it 8 stroke? How long ?

Your bike doesn't have to run for long on choke you just have to start it, warm a bit, choke off, and go.

You have a SJ 45 and you can try the 40.

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
When I say the choke doesn't work, I mean I can't get the bike started with the choke without flooding the plug easily. Also, if the bike is already running (just started, cold) and I turn on the choke the engine dies immediately.

That's why I adapted Taffy's method. It takes 4+ kicks to get it started without the choke, but if I turn the choke on, kick it through a couple of times, and then turn the choke off, I can get the bike started cold the first time.

I realized that the choke doesn't need to be on for long as I have owned many motorcycles, but mine doesn't seem to need the choke at all. This is with the newly installed smaller 33 PJ at 1 to 1.5 turns out. It drives like it's warmed up even when cold. I really can't imagine needing to go much smaller on the PJ based off recommendations from the forum and the factory recommended 45 PJ
 
Hi

Every engine is diferent as I allready told you, but based on the usual settings I don't think you should go to a smaller PJ. It is a bit strange since I can start my 600 with the choke on and with the stock jetting, that is a lot richer, except for the needle. Assuming that your carb haven't been changed, i.e the air intakes to the slow circuit haven't been drilled and everything is in good condition. Have you checked the atomizer, is the inside of the hole round ?

You should need choke, it is why it is there, when engine is cold you need to richen the mix and as the engine gets warm and the carb too you need to go leaner.

You can try a smaller start jet that has a major influence with the choke on, or you can just use your method if it works for you :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
So with some minor tinkering of the pilot screw on the 33 pilot jet, I think I got it where I like it. It dies when you get give it gas cold unless it has run for about 30 seconds, which is what I consider to be normal. Also, it runs and starts easily with the choke cold now, but seems to eight cycle rather quickly, IE before the choke needs to be turned off. You also have to get it started within the first few kicks or it seems to flood the engine. If that happens, I generally turn off the choke and am able to start the bike easier afterwards.

At this point, I'm really just nit-picking. It runs great and starts easily. Maybe if I'm near the Husaberg place near my house I'll pick up a 40 start jet and see if that helps.

By the way, since I have a Vapor unit installed with a temperature readout, I've noticed that the bikes run cool (only 120 F) in light load situations (cruising) at most ambient temperature (50-80 degrees F). I made an adjustable duct to control airflow over the radiator and keep the engine running at a proper temperature (180 degrees F) in order to increase engine efficiency. I was finally able to monitor my gas mileage, and this tank I got 54 mpg (23 km/L)!!! Much better than what I have read about these things....I think the lack of a thermostat causes main non-trail and non-race driven bikes to run too cool
 
Lee

the atomisers wear over the years so does the needle but just not as much.

get a new atomiser and needle.

regards

Taffy
 
Some carb issues were causing me problems when riding my "08FE. Amongst other things it would stall at low revs and send me over the bars. Just fitted one of Taffy's "Trail /Enduro" jetting kits to my 08 FE.
End of carb problems and uses less fuel as well. :cheers:
 
EddieFE said:
Some carb issues were causing me problems when riding my "08FE. Amongst other things it would stall at low revs and send me over the bars. Just fitted one of Taffy's "Trail /Enduro" jetting kits to my 08 FE.
End of carb problems and uses less fuel as well. :cheers:

Bloody hell Eddie - what HAVE I done!

.....we're going to ride all day without any stops next time....I think James will need a plasma drip by 3pm just as Ed cries: "I've enough for another 4 hours non-stop!" :cheers: :cheers:

regards

Taffy
 

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