carb vent drool

bob, ck out the thread taffy started. daleEO had a possible solution to your problem.
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... pic&t=7868

Thanks for the plug Ned,

Bob, if you go to the SUDCO web page and look at the carb diagrams, then look at the FCR MX new!, find part #37, that's the O ring we are talking about.

It could possibly that your float level is set too high. If it's not dripping when you are sitting still then I doubt it's the O ring on the needle seat.

Have a look at your manual and it will tell you where the float level is supposed to be. It is normal for the overflow to be wet and drip when you are riding, just not excessively.

You have to remove the carb completely to check the float level. I tried to do it on the bike and got it all wrong, you need to use the procedure they describe.

If you need any help, let me know.

Dale

LOL!!!

Bob,

Just for clarification, it's the overflow tube that comes off of the bottom of the float bowl right? And not the actual vent tubes themselves.

Ya, Dale likely has the solution. Float level over time go out of whack from repeated bouncing and the odd "tipover". Typically, they always richen the mixture and fuel spillage. Thankfully, being that the floatbowl is on teh bottom of the carb, when you break the pencil lead off attepting to adj the float tang, it will drop into onto the starter and out of harms way. So don't worry, I don't think there's any worry using your lead.

Good catch Dale. I just bought a used FCR 39 (MK1) fitted it to the bike and noticed that 1, I can't keep it running for the life of me; and 2 the over flow tube coming off of the bottom of the bowl has a drip. The drip is about 1 every 2 or 3 seconds. I was going to go out and adjust the float but now I'm curious if the o-ring is spent. I know it's a difference in carbs because I threw on the dellorto and the bike fires up and idles like usual.


In case the question were to be asked; I cleaned the passages prior to installing, and my jetting thus far is -
MJ 155
MAJ 150 or so can't remember at this moment
PJ 35
PAJ 55 (3/8 turn PAS)
FS tried everything from 1 turn to 2.5 turns in 1/4 turn increments
Needle DMS (clip #2)
Starter Jet #75

with the bike on that jetting@ a standard plug will last for just one ride.

i'll repeat that. A STANDARD PLUG ON YOU R JETTING WILL LAST FOR ONLY ONE RIDE!

you must go to a quality plug. do other things for sure but the plug is a must. i love the IXU24 and won't change because it is already 100%.

zis is an order!

regards

Taffy

I'm going to change the o-ring and float valve and call it good. I'll follow your lead on the plug too.

Ok, so I changed the float needle, float valve, and o-ring and no luck. Still have a drooling carb. I'm sure that the float is at 9mm but it's worth checking again; I figure now it's a float height issue. Strange thing is, it'll run while choke on, but turn the choke off and it's like I hit the kill switch. I've given it a cleaning three separate times, and I believe the pilot passage to be clear. It runs fine with the Del', so tappets etc... have been ruled out. Oh well, gives me something to do this weekend!

so you have a drooling carb and a bike that stalls?

take the float off and lay on the table to check how straight it is.

could still be that your tappets are wrong - sorry

as for the fuel well the o ring is the only known problem?

FCRs should be set at 8mm some reckon.

regards

Taffy

I routinely lower the float level in my FCR carbs from the stock 9 mm to 11 mm, and then put a 'loop' in the overflow tube with the top of the loop just below the bottom edge of the intake manifold. This practice has worked out very well on two FCR equipped KTM's and even seems to have increased the fuel mileage somewhat.

Chas said:

I routinely lower the float level in my FCR carbs from the stock 9 mm to 11 mm, and then put a 'loop' in the overflow tube with the top of the loop just below the bottom edge of the intake manifold. This practice has worked out very well on two FCR equipped KTM's and even seems to have increased the fuel mileage somewhat.

Click to expand...

9mm is standard, 8mm will richen things and 11mm will lean it off hence your increase in fuel mileage.
The fuel height is a default setting to what can be related to when setting the jetting.
Plus it's the most comfortable postion to be set at for steep climbs and steep descents.
I wouldn't play around with the fuel height to much, it just increases confusion.

Regards

Sparks.

Things were a bit chilly today, about 40 degF, down from 80 degF on Friday; gotta love the midwest.

Ok, so no more drooling carb. Maybe when I put in the float valve the o-ring was not sealing well. Anyway, no more drooling carb. Stripped the rest and sprayed w/ contact cleaner and blew out with compressed air. Installed the carb, same stuff different day.

When in doubt, rip it out; I always say. So I put it all back the way I got it. I did have a Sudco bell, removed and put on the factory plastic deal. Took out the PAJ screw, installed the 100 PAJ, put in the 200 MAJ; I left a the MJ at 155 or 160, can't remember now. The needle stayed at DMS clip 2, FS at 1.5 turns. Well, fired up on choke no biggie. Choke off, stalls, not as quick though. Hmm, I thought, so I pulled off the intake boot so I could see if the PAJ was plugged, nothing obvious. So, out of curiosity, I fired the bike up and stuck my finger over the PAJ/MAJ passage and turned the choke off. Well I'll be darned, the bike rpm increased when the passage was completely blocked and then fell as I allowed more air in. So, to me this means the PJ circuit is still to lean, and richened when air was restricted. I then back the FS out to 2.5 turns, fire the bike up and it runs, back it out to 3 and it picks up idle speed to the point I can back off the idle screw so that the slide is in a more reasonable position.

So now I believe I'm not completely phucked.... Or maybe I am.... Only time will tell. Either way, I now have something to start will.

Kzoo,

Sounds like an air leak doesn't it? Do you use the same intake manifold as the Dell?

Did you ever pull the slide and have a look at it? Be sure and check the gasket on the floating plate on the motor side of the slide.

A thought also occurred to me, be sure and check any of the little castings intended for vacuum lines on the carb body, to make sure that there isn't one that is drilled but is not being used, that could also be the cause of your air leak.

Sounds like you are making some progress.

Dale

Haven't pulled the slide yet. I ordered a new o-ring this weekend; might as well replace it while I'm in there. I also was wondering if the o-ring that seals the union of the bell and the carb body is leaking past, so I have one of those on the way too. I am using a Dell' inlet stub, but I milled 5mm off of it like in the doc. I'll have more time to mess with it later.

Thanks for the help!

Jason

jason

i'd have said that the pilot circuit was an enrichening circuit. as a ratio of what the MJ/needle are pulling at idle it's a helluva lot. so when you stuck your finger over the hole you leaned it off.

that doesn't explain the 3 turns of the PS which made it even richer. i could be wrong. that DMS needs to be on either 3 or 4 IMHO and will show in a flat spot when moving off as well as a gutless midrange.

regards

Taffy

Taffy said:

jason

i'd have said that the pilot circuit was an enrichening circuit. as a ratio of what the MJ/needle are pulling at idle it's a helluva lot. so when you stuck your finger over the hole you leaned it off.

that doesn't explain the 3 turns of the PS which made it even richer. i could be wrong. that DMS needs to be on either 3 or 4 IMHO and will show in a flat spot when moving off as well as a gutless midrange.

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

Taffy,

I figure that once I got the float needle fixed up, and everything else was status quo, the pilot fuel/air mixture was too lean. That's why I had to compensate with either the choke circuit or having the idle all the way up, which made the difference for the lack of PJ.

I am under the impression that leaning off the PAJ ended up richening up the pilot fuel/air mixture. When I left the PAJ alone and backed the FS off to 3; it picked up and idled. I could be wrong, but now that the idle is backed off (can't give you the exact slide height) the needle/MJ is now neglegable and the bike is running the PJ circuit (mainly).

Either way, I won't have the opportunity to mess with it until next week as I've ordered a few bits and bobs to install on it; I have a some semblance of a baseline and I think I'm one step closer to Nirvana.

Thanks,

Jason

Okaaayyyy.... So I replaces the gaskets / o-rings in the FCR 39. I even replaced the o-ring between the slide plates (hope I have it in the right way). Have the pilot down the a 38 but the FS still needs to be out too far. The bike fires up and idles without the choke; things are going in the right direction!

I think I have an air leak at the union between the rubber inlet (between the carb and head) and the carb. Which then lead me to take another look at the owners doc. In the doc it says that an inlet spigot from a Keihin dealer is needed but lists "Suzuki Goose FCR 41" which I'm assuming is only for the FCR 41. So is there another inlet for the FCR 39 or use what's molded into the carb; if so then it's a matter of taking a bit more material off of the rubber stub and that should be it!

Thanks,

Jason