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Cam chain? Piston slap? "Normal" tick?

T

topgun

Joined Feb 2017
29 Posts | 5+
Nova Scotia, Canada
Hi there,

Recently, I think I've started noticing a different ticking sound coming from my 2011 FS570, which has 140 hours on it, and around 9,300 km. It hasn't been ridden particularly hard by me. No long distance high revs, mostly just braaping around town cracking small wheelies. I've been on the oil and filter every 10 hours, and I am confident the guy I bought it from was the same way. Maybe it is just in my head... my previous KTM's seemed to tick quite loudly as well and I never did have a significant failure.

I've already ordered a DJH tensioner to see if that will quiet it down anyway, but in the mean time I was hoping to get some other opinions.

I have a piston, ring and gasket kit ready to be put in, but I was just hoping I could get at least until the winter. And I am really hoping I don't need to shell out another grand for a cylinder, or con rod, or crank, etc...

https://vimeo.com/226207236
 
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getting the cam chain tight will hep finding the problem. let us all know how that first task goes....

Taffy
 
I'd hazard a guess it's the chain. Just proceed with caution and monitor. The tensioner is a good idea, and watch the magnet / oil filter :)
 
Thanks guy, will definitely follow up. Also, on Berglsmergs advice, going to check valves for looseness sooner than later. I can tell you that three days ago when I last changed the oil, there were no flakes on the magnet of the drain plug.
 
My FX450 has a bit of a tick/rattle like that, esp.at cold start up. I also have the DT cam chain tensioner waiting to be installed - if you find a good write up or video on install, please post it up.

My bike does have over twice the hours of yours - so I don't think you have anything to worry about.
 
Guys,

Finally found time to dig into the valve area of my bike.

Inlet valves were in spec, between 0.10 mm and 0.127 mm.

Exhaust valves were in spec, between 0.127 mm and 0.15 mm.

However, here is a video showing some movement in my exhaust side rocker arm. Something tells me this is the cause of my louder tapping sound.

https://vimeo.com/227626175

Any thoughts on next steps? Replace the whole exhaust side assemby? Remove it and just get a new bearing? I have never pressed a bearing in before, for what its worth.
 
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I would be more worried about the inlet having no play. They are supposed to have some.
 
Not sure about the adjustment on the 70* bikes but the older bikes have a way to adjust rocker axial play.
Someone else probably knows..
 
I did check the valve clearances and they were all "in spec", though on the tighter side of the acceptable range for both intake and exhaust.

For the rocker arms themselves, The exhaust side seemed to have slight radial movement, and the intake side had no play at all, either radially or axially.
 
Does anyone else have any input on my issue? What I should look at replacing or adjusting, and how to make the adjustment?
 
You should clarify if the radial movement is in the rocket arm shaft or the roller follower. There is no way to adjust radial play, it's a case of replacement only. Replace the rocker arm and the shaft, not a big expense.
 
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Yesterday I had time to verify that the radial play is coming from the bearing that rolls on the cam lobe on the exhaust side. Is this what you refer to as the roller follower? The bearing also seems a lot stickier than the intake side bearing, ie it doesn't roll as well.

For $150 CAD I decided I might as well go ahead and order the complete exhaust side rocker arm assembly and the rocker shaft. Should have it installed in 5-7 business days and will report back.
 
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With the Dirt Tricks tensioner, lay the bike down on its side. With the Bergs tensioner housing being vertical the plunger in the tensioner wants to extend so if you lay it down it makes it horizontal.
 
Hey guys, I'm trying to get this sorted this weekend. Does anyone know the torque specs for the two bolts into the rocker arm shaft?

Edit: Swapped out my rocker arm and shaft and that play from the earlier video seems to still be there... I wonder if there is anything else that could be allowing it to move? Maybe the cam shaft is worn at that spot in the cycle...? Or if maybe it is fine after all and that is just the way it should be. With the old rocker arm out, there is definitely excess play in that bearing because it can be twisted slightly.

Another question, when I line up the dimples on the cam gear, will I be at TDC of compression? Or could I be TDC of exhaust?
 
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Go into manuals and download the owners and workshop manuals. All your specs are in there.

Re clearance, are you talking up and down movement (clearance) between the roller and the valve? Check clearance.

The crank rotates twice against the cam once. Align the dots. Your crank is locked by the bolt to the right/down from the filler cap?
 
There is up and down movement between the bearing and the cam lobe on the exhaust side. The intake side seems solid, with rocker arm movement Essentially only along the length of the rocker shaft (side to side). That tapping sound in the earlier video I posted is the bearing tapping against the cam lobe.

I guess my main question is, should there be a gap between the roller bearing on the rocker arm and the cam lobe, or should the bearing always be in contact with the lobe. If there isn't supposed to be a gap, I wouldn't be getting an accurate measurement for the clearance between the rocker arm and the valve shim.

I didn't have the crank locked. I just lined up the dots and was careful not to rotate my wheel any. Would locking it ensure I'm exactly at TDC?
 
"Would locking it ensure I'm exactly at TDC?"

Yes, that's it's purpose.

If you have clearance at the brg you'll have clearance at the shim. This is what you want within the rec spec. Same with the inlet.
 

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