Burn-in article opinions

Sounds like he's full of crap! He compares apples to oranges. No one answer fits all!

i'm told that that is how all modern vehicles are broken in. years ago the men with the trade-plates delivering new cars would be seen doing 50mph max. now the factories ask them to thrash them there!

IMHO virtually everything is better off for it as long as we are on about RACING here! bits in the engine have a mileage and by the time you've run an engine in the old way the engine has done 1,000 miles and everything is bedded bar the rings which have passed their best!

Taffy

He is 100% correct. That is the propper way to break-in a bike.

There was a thread on running in procedure, but I think it may have been pre losing the old forums. Every man & his dog seemed to have an slightly different preference.

Brad is correct, this article was posted up and discussed last september here on UHE.
I think, like the oil topic, this one will never be agreed upon by all. Just too many people that have done it the old way by taking it easy on the gas for the first 500 miles, varying the speed and allowing both the front and back of the piston to wear on the cylinder walls, not towing or pulling weight during the first 1000 miles of break in.....

With the manufacturing methods of 30 or 40 years ago this may have been the way to go to ensure a better ring seat. However manufacturing techniques have vastly improved and tolerances have decreased to the point where ring seat takes place in a very short period of time and should be done within the first 5 or 10 miles. Most people would agree that during break in you should do your first oil change after the first 10 minutes of riding, and again after maybe another 30 minutes. The metal shavings caught in the oil filter would be another way of gauging your break in. Although I still have small traces of metal in the filter at oil changes, it is not anywhere like it was the first two oil changes. Also a magnetic oil plug will show you whether the metal shavings are ferrous or not. I don't think you should start your bike up and pin it in any gear at WOT for extended periods of time but I do believe that you should accelerate hard and allow the engine to work around 75% of its peak range for any given gear during the first 30 minutes of movement. I believe starting the bike and allowing it to idle for about 1-2 minutes and then changing oil before breaking the engine in will flush the suspended metals from the internals of the motor and ensure a good coat of oil on all the parts also. Of course all this was done at the Husaberg factory before your bike was shipped so changing the oil upon receiving the bike would probably be fine unless you just did the engine rebuild yourself. Of course this is just my opinion and others will likely disagree. Just my $.02

Regards,
Sandskipper

I read that article a few monthes ago. I agree with his technique. I disagree about the synthetic issue. The early synthetic oils in the 80's had PTFE and other additives, that if introduced to an engine before break-in was complete, would cause the rings to not seat/ seal properly. The new synthic oils are a synthetic base stock or carrier as opposed to the old style of conventional oil with moly, PTFE, etc being added. I break-in all my engines with synthetic and I break them in hard. WOT accelleration, but not high rpm's. I keep rolling on the power to keep the rings seated hard. As soon as I hit peak power I shift and repeat through all the gears. When I have disassembled my engines, my pistons look like his examples of like new with no blow-by or burns or scuff marks. This is the same break-in used by drag racers and Formula Vee racers. We had a saying " Break 'em in fast, they will run fast, break 'em in slow amd slow you will go."

sandskipper said:

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.... manufacturing techniques have vastly improved and tolerances have decreased to the point where ring seat takes place in a very short period of time and should be done within the first 5 or 10 miles. Most people would agree that during break in you should do your first oil change after the first 10 minutes of riding, and again after maybe another 30 minutes.

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Husaberg recommends the first oil change and valve adjustment after 2 full hours.
I doubt they would recommend idling much of that time since the bike needs air flow across the radiator to prevent overheating.

Anything I have ever bought new or rebuilt has always been broken in the way it is going to be run. Whether it was a car, boat motor, quad or a bike or whatever. If I plan on running this sh*t out of it, then that's the way I break them in. It may not be the proper way to do it but it has always worked for me.

I agree though, that this will always be a subject of disagreement.

Jay

I couldn't agree more with you Jay ! I have followed the same proceedure as you.

The way the old chevy and ford and all other motors back in the old/old days. They use to make the block and let it cure outside for two years. Then they would clean them up and run them hard. They still do today. They run them with no heads. Just the lower rotating assembly. High rpms. Then they used to run them hard when done. I still agree with the no synthetic on break-in. Just cause I like to be safe. But your right you can use it with the newer synthetics. I know on car motors you can. But i'm not sure about bikes.

hi all,

For what its worth my engine was put back together last friday, run for 10minutes carefully on the saturday morning, oil change and clean crap out of oil screen, and then caned to within an inch of life for 60 laps on a practice day. An oil change after revealed plenty of metal flakes and gasket bits in the oil. The engine has never felt better. Compression is good, she spins on very quickly, and feels as good as new.

IMHO Husabergs are race engines and should be treated as such. 1000miles of carefull run in will only cause the bores to glaze over.

Chris Neeves

FC600

RE: What's WOT?

Hi,

WOT=Wide Open Throttle

thanks,
json

imitheos said:

I don't get why all companies suggest to break it in otherwise.

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Most companies do this because of legal issues. The factory will typically run-in your engine prior to shipment, but they say to take it easy so that you get used to the bike when new. This is especially true with road based bikes.

imitheos

"get on it and enjoy" is what most would say-for power

for longetivity- run it in still and you'll have an engine that will last longer.

Taffy

imitheos said:

So you mean that the bike is ready to run ?
Don't i need to burn-in it ?
I can ride it as i want when i buy it ?

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Ride it hard and enjoy. My 501 didn't reach full power for a couple hundred miles of hard break-in. Don't baby the engine, but don't over rev it either.

another thing to remember is that husabergs are made with some fairly tight tolerances! that's why they don't start on the button when they're new-because they're so tight.

i'm sure if we did a survey you would find that in the first year there are flat battery's, a lot of kicking and the engines can be unresponsive yet a year later they start on the button and are the lively beasts we know!

this, you might decide, may help you make your mind up whether you run it in or thrash it from the off!

Taffy