What about Break-in procedures? While differences of opinions will always exist on this complex subject, here is an article I wrote for a fairly famous magazine many years back that pertains to any piston engine in existence. Much of the background for this info was derived from Gordon Jennings and years of professional engine building:
You can follow the directions in your owner's manual, or you can read the following and form your own opinion. Many of us subscribe to the belief that the owner's manual method just doesn't do the job...
The best way to "break-in" any new piston engine is to NOT "baby it" by keeping the RPM under some manufacturer's magical limit. I’m sure that you have heard the line "if you don't break it in hard, it will never run hard?" Well, there IS quite a bit of merit to this statement once all the reasons are fully understood.
I'm sure that we can all agree that THE ONLY WAY any piston engine “breaks in" is by wearing off and polishing all the high spots to make a perfect, custom, low friction fit between all the important sliding parts. Time alone at reduced RPM will NOT accomplish this! It takes MAX RPM for all the parts to make contact that would NOT normally contact and wear-in at some reduced RPM level. The best method for this to occur is to run the engine right up to the manufacturers listed "red line", BUT with the LEAST LOAD POSSIBLE. Remember load = heat and NEW pistons DO NOT like excessive heat!
So, just how do you do perform this seemingly impossible task? Well, with any vehicle that has a gearbox, it's actually very easy. When the bike/vehicle is brand new, you begin a series of low load, HIGH RPM runs (right up to red line), but beginning ONLY in FIRST GEAR. This gives the very necessary high RPM “wear-inâ€Â