BOSS / Clarke petcock sealing

husabutt

Joined Feb 2003

3K Posts | 384+

Escondido, Ca. USA

Discussion Starter
• Feb 10, 2008

• #1

Installed my big tank from BOSS today on the 2005 450. The only issue I am having is sealing the petcock to the tank.

On the left side I used a Husky petcock like this:

(borrowed from BERGORACERS gallery)

To get the Husky tap to seal I used hex screws instead of the supplied philips, disgarded the supplied gasket and added a second smaller o-ring fited directly over the pick-up tube. That finally sealed the left side.

On the right side I had to drill the petcock screw holes larger in order to line up with the threads in the tank. I also used hex screws instead of the supplied phillips. I used the supplied gasket and left the thin stock o-ring on the petcock. In order to stop the seepage between the tank and petcock I had to over tighten the hex nuts which sort of deformed the gasket.

I could use some ideas on how to get a leak free petcock seal.

 

B

BOSS

Joined Feb 2005

779 Posts | 0+

Portland, OR 97216

• Feb 10, 2008

• #2

Eric

On a few tanks I have had to use the stock o-ring with the supplied clarke
gasket then trim it once tight. Hope this will do.

 

husabutt

Joined Feb 2003

3K Posts | 384+

Escondido, Ca. USA

Discussion Starter
• Feb 10, 2008

• #3

Thanks BOSS.

I really had to torque the bolts down more than I would like to . I just went out to check it and it seems that I am getting a very very small amount of seepage. Is there a silcone sealer that could be used instead of the gasket?

 

husabutt

Joined Feb 2003

3K Posts | 384+

Escondido, Ca. USA

Discussion Starter
• Feb 10, 2008

• #4

 

B

BOSS

Joined Feb 2005

779 Posts | 0+

Portland, OR 97216

• Feb 10, 2008

• #5

Eric
I think if it takes more than the stock o-ring & their gasket you may have to

return the tank for a new one, if you do not feel good about it please send it back.

I will refund your shipping cost & make sure everything is taken care of asap.

 

husabutt

Joined Feb 2003

3K Posts | 384+

Escondido, Ca. USA

Discussion Starter
• Feb 10, 2008

• #6

Thanks for the offer Rick but I don't give up that easy

I have dealt with aftermarket tanks before and they all need a bit of massaging here and there. I may try making a gasket out of an old inner tube or something similar. I haven't tried running two gaskets yet either. Hopefully I can get a few more ideas from the brethren here.

 

S

steve

Joined May 2002

2K Posts | 140+

Snowy Mountains NSW Australia

• Feb 11, 2008

• #7

The 19 litre tank I got for my 501 years ago leaked like a sieve. All the screws that secured the valves and drains penetrated into the tank. The dealer 'fixed' it with silicone/silastic. Silastic is soluable in petrol! I was not happy!!!

I ended up fixing it myself with some oversize 14g screws and a Loctite product called Master Gasket which sealed up the screws nicely. Worth a try.

Steve

 

berger

Joined Apr 2002

3K Posts | 11+

Phoenix Arizona

• Feb 11, 2008

• #8

For what it's worth, I only used the o-ring that came with the KTM petcocks. Zero problems sealing.

 

P

Pro_Marinero

Joined Oct 2007

41 Posts | 0+

Puyallup, WA

• Feb 11, 2008

• #9

If you need some kind of sealer, Permatex makes Aviation Sealant which is impervious to gasoline. This was recommended by a renowned builder of GL1000 carbs who made it mandatory when refitting tank drain bolts. I've used it and it works well. Surprisingly, it was right on the shelf at my local Schucks.

 

N

Neil_E.

Joined Apr 2007

190 Posts | 1+

Gormley, Ontario, Canada

• Feb 12, 2008

• #10

When the brass inserts are installed, the plastic at that location pushes up and you no longer have a flat surface for the petcock oring to seal. Remove the tank and take a fine file and file down these bumps. Then use a block of aluminum as a backer and wetsand the mounting area until it is perfectly flat. You can plug the tank hole with a little wad of gum to keep shavings out of the tank while you work. I changed the hardware to stainless hex bolts and shortened them to the correct length so they would not bottom out in the inserts. Just be very careful with your filing and sanding and it will work out well.

 

husabutt

Joined Feb 2003

3K Posts | 384+

Escondido, Ca. USA

Discussion Starter
• Feb 12, 2008

• #11

Neil_E. said:

When the brass inserts are installed, the plastic at that location pushes up and you no longer have a flat surface for the petcock oring to seal. Remove the tank and take a fine file and file down these bumps. Then use a block of aluminum as a backer and wetsand the mounting area until it is perfectly flat. You can plug the tank hole with a little wad of gum to keep shavings out of the tank while you work. I changed the hardware to stainless hex bolts and shortened them to the correct length so they would not bottom out in the inserts. Just be very careful with your filing and sanding and it will work out well.

Click to expand...

Did you use the supplied gaskets or just the stock o-ring or both?

Great tips from everyone. Thank you for them all !

 

S

SpikeHammer

Joined Jun 2002

260 Posts | 0+

UK

• Feb 12, 2008

• #12

I don't know if you have it in the States (you will have it but maybe under another name) but there is a product called PetSeal, it seal holes in petrol tanks. If you used this on all gasket faces and then around the edge of the petcocks once they are seated it should seal 100%.

 

ned37

Joined Dec 2004

2K Posts | 247+

back in cottonwood, az

• Feb 12, 2008

• #13

your tank must have been the same batch as mine. i had to file the base flat just like neil says. it appears they didn't get the brass inserts in completely and the plastic was curved (only on the left side). 10 minutes with a file will cure it.

 

G

Gazza

Joined Jan 2004

510 Posts | 0+

Perth, Western Australia

• Feb 12, 2008

• #14

I used the stock Berg gasket and O ring from day 1 and zero leakage 8 months & 7,000km later

 

N

Neil_E.

Joined Apr 2007

190 Posts | 1+

Gormley, Ontario, Canada

• Feb 17, 2008

• #15

After I got both tank outlets wet sanded to perfection I only used the petcock orings.

 

S

SteveS

Joined Feb 2007

49 Posts | 0+

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

• Feb 18, 2008

• #16

Originally leaked with the gasket. So now just using the O-ring with no leaks.

 

L

loz16h

Joined Oct 2007

231 Posts | 0+

Vancouver Island BC

• Mar 13, 2008

• #17

I just received a clarke tank and the petcock faces are not flat so the filing thing seems in order.

I have noticed another thing which I would appreciate some feedback on which is that the front slots for the frame rubbers dont stop the front of the tank from lifting (unlike the stock tank).

My concern is that the tank will lift at the front (like when I wipe out; really!) and this will bust the lower radiator lovre mounts which are the only thing holding the front of the tank down.

Any wise words?

 

L

loz16h

Joined Oct 2007

231 Posts | 0+

Vancouver Island BC

• Mar 14, 2008

• #18

And another thing. Can anyone recomend a set of vinyl graphics for the clarke tank? It looks like the stock ones would almost be a good fit but not quite.

 

L

loz16h

Joined Oct 2007

231 Posts | 0+

Vancouver Island BC

• Mar 14, 2008

• #19

I was just talking with BOSS and he said to put a shout out to the guy who got some graphics made up for a Clarke tank.

That ring any bells out there? Anyone give me a lead on this?

 

P

Pro_Marinero

Joined Oct 2007

41 Posts | 0+

Puyallup, WA

• Jul 20, 2008

• #20

Here's a stupid question. I need to put the old seat mount bolt on the new one. The stock tank had a brass insert where the bolt went, the new one has nothing. What do I do? Tap the hole for M6x1.0?