A couple simple break-in questions.

squarehead2 · Jun 24, 2006

I have about eight hours on my rebuilt fc600( scary fast by the way 8O) and I'm doing my first valve adjustment. I used the 1/8 turnout method, locked the nut, double checked w/ .004 feeler. The gap seems perfect, slight drag. My first question: Is it normal that with it adjusted as said that there is now three threads showing on the adjustment screw, where as my mechanic had it ajusted so the screw was all the way down, no threads showing? My second question is: My mechanic said my clutch platts looked fine, but even after adjutsting cable top and bottom, the bike creeps after putting it in gear while holding in the lever, are the platts stuck together or maybe dirty :?:

ENFORCER4 · Jun 24, 2006

My quad somewhat creeps forward also as you are describing and my 98 fc 501 did it also so did my 94 600
I have become acustomed to it.
I do not think there is anything wrong with it.

Not sure about the valve adj.

squarehead2 · Jun 24, 2006

ENFORCER4 said:
My quad somewhat creeps forward also as you are describing and my 98 fc 501 did it also so did my 94 600
I have become acustomed to it.
I do not think there is anything wrong with it.

Not sure about the valve adj.

Thank's for the info man, I'll also wait for some more reply's.

sandskipper · Jun 24, 2006

squarehead2,

As long as you made sure your valves were adjusted while @ TDC you should be fine and in good shape. The reason you are probably seeing more threads on your tappet screws is that over time, as your valve seats become more embedded and your valves start to tulip a little, The valve starts to rise higher into the head area. As the valve starts to move upwards you will compensate the gap by turning the tappet screw out thus seeing more threads. In you case, just having 8hrs on the engine after a rebuild, it is probable that the settings have moved to compensate for the new parts in the engine. If your concerned about a bad rebuild, monitor the engine oil, sounds, and feeling for any signs of a possible problem. My bike is three years old ('02 FC550) and some tappet screws are flush with the retaining nut while others protrude out 2 or 3 threads past the retaining nut. I have never had any top end rework done to my bike since I took ownership and it has run flawlessly, however the hours are accumulating and I sense rebuilt in the not so distant future. I would not worry much about your findings right now unless one who knows more says otherwise... Dale? Break the motor in with medium loads and have fun... O'ya, and keep the rubber side down!

Regards,

squarehead2 · Jun 24, 2006

Thank you Sandskipper, Ya I would like Dale's input 8) .

DaleEO · Jun 24, 2006

I wouldn't worry about how many threads are showing, just as long as the lash is correct, and that you had a good quality 5 angle valve job done as part of the rebuild.

As far as the clutch goes, it would be helpful to know what year bike you have. The clutch pressure plate and push rod adjustment changed in 1997. And, proper clutch rod adjustment is critical to the function of the lift mechanism. The pre 97 bikes used a system not unlike the valve adjustment with an adjuster, lock nut, and cotter pin on the throw out bearing assembly. The 97 used a shim in between the push rod and the throw out bearing.

Let me know what year you have and I can tell you how to set it up. My 94 & 1/2 501 used to creep like you are describing, and I later upgraded the pressure plate assembly to a 98 model with a good deal of success.

squarehead2 · Jun 24, 2006

That was fast DaleEO

I have an 1994 fc600, and again when I took off the valve covers for my first adjustment I noticed that the screws were flush with the nuts.

sandskipper · Jun 24, 2006

squarehead,

When the rebuild was done to the bike, was any work done to the valve seats? Valves replaced? Cam bearings? Cam? Rockers?
Did you follow the proper torque settings?

Regards,

squarehead2 · Jun 24, 2006

sandskipper said:
squarehead,

When the rebuild was done to the bike, was any work done to the valve seats? Valves replaced? Cam bearings? Cam? Rockers?
Did you follow the proper torque settings?

Regards,

Yes, all the above, over $2000.00 worth.

squarehead2 · Jun 24, 2006

sandskipper said:
squarehead,

When the rebuild was done to the bike, was any work done to the valve seats? Valves replaced? Cam bearings? Cam? Rockers?
Did you follow the proper torque settings?

Regards,

Yes, all the above, over $2000.00 worth.

DaleEO · Jun 24, 2006

Hi Squarhead,

Go and check out my post in thread of the link below. As you will see others have had your same problem. My opinion on the subject is pretty well laid out there. Good luck, if you still have any questions fee free to ask.

http://www.husaberg.org/modules.php?nam ... c&start=15

Hope this helps,

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A couple simple break-in questions.

squarehead2

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