A bit of help needed with rocker cover inspection

I took a standard allen key (L shaped) and cut 2/3 's off the short end, just enough to bottom on the screw head....I didn't want to take the rad off....Bon chance !!

MOTOXOTICA HAS THE SILICOVE VALVE COVER SEALS, ALSO AT THE HUSABERG STORE WEBSITE


WONT LEAK AND THEY ARE THE LAST PAIR YOU WILL BUY......

Hey froggy, A WHOLE bunch of info has been written about this subject. I personnally asked the question last year... search under "sealing rocker cover/s"

enjoy... also i believe it is in the "doc"

Hey froggy, I understand your frustration in the event you can't get it sealed quite right... just don't be to liberal with the sealant as you only need a thin layer and you don't want a bunch on the inside of the rocker cover/head where it can clog a oil hole or something

mr le frog sir, i have removed the rocker cover for the 1st time this morning. i removed the radiator and it gives you so much room to work.

Removing the radiator is not difficult and will save you LOTS of time and frustration... especially if this is your fisrt time cracking these open. You will want as much space as possible.

Hi Frog,

A few pointers if I may....

Be careful not to loose the little tiny O ring located in the left rear corner(viewed as you are sitting on it) of the head/rocker box gasket area. This provides the oil seal for pressure lubrication for the rocker arms. Also, watch how much silicone you use in this area during assembly so you don't plug this hole inadvertantly.

Be sure and clean the sealing surface thoroughly on both sides, and get most of the oil out of the rocker box area so it doesn't run down and ruin your new silicone while you are assembling.

Keep in mind that when you are working on the rocker box, be sure and set the motor to TDC before you start to work on it.

You will also have to re set the axial play on the rocker arms when you re assemble. And of course you will have to re set the valves too, be sure you set the axial play of the rocker arms FIRST.

I highly reccomend Three Bond #1211 silicone sealer for this job. It's not cheap but it's by far and away the best silicone sealer I have ever used. It's a lot thinner than the usual silicone sealer, and it's also really good for sealing up the exhaust area's as well. A tube of this will run you around 15 or 20 bucks, but will last you a long time. It doesn't get brittle like regular silicone, it stays somewhat flexible. It's curing time is a bit longer than the regular stuff, it needs a good 24 hours.

Something else you might want to try before taking the plunge. Check and see if all the screws are tight, if you find a loose one just tighten down clean up leaked oil and ride. Check later on to see if it still leaks if it does then go through to above posts and fix if not problem solved. Good luck.

wildbill said:

Something else you might want to try before taking the plunge. Check and see if all the screws are tight, if you find a loose one just tighten down clean up leaked oil and ride. Check later on to see if it still leaks if it does then go through to above posts and fix if not problem solved. Good luck.

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This is good advice from Bill. Sometimes what you may think is a rocker cover leak ends up actually being a leak from a valve inspection cover or from the breather hose. It's worth it to be absolutley sure before pulling the rocker cover.
Good luck LeFrog!

LeLog

how do you reset the axial play ???

whosahberg said:

how do you reset the axial play ???

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See page 22 of the 1999 WorkShop Manual

thanks once again to all concerned for your help it is very much appreciated
what an awesome site you have.

If you have ridden the bike for 200 miles in a weekend and have a bit of drool every where around the top of the motor but not really much oil misssing I would leave it alone. a slight amount of drool will make a bigger looking mess than it really is and the 2001-2003 motors that I know of all weep a bit. It may be a more cosmitic problem than a real one. I know that motor and from day one it drooled a bit everywhere and no matter what I did or the mechinic at the shop did it was always a mess after about 100 miles esp if you were flogging the sh*t out of it. I even remember times when it looked like there were drips but there was really no oil missing that I could measure when I dumped it.
If you do go ahead and remove the roclker box, Clean with carb cleaner or alchol and be sure to let it dry before you put the sealant on. Also DO NOT start the motor for at least 24 hours after assembly or you will not have let the sealant cure properly.
Just my 2 cents worth since I heard you got it running good. Dont mess with it unless it really needs it. Even if you stop all the weeps you still gotta wash it after you ride it right?
Good luck and I want to see how much you improved at the end of this month
Bob

As usual Joe hit's a home run!

LeFrog said:

Yeah it's more cosmetic than anything but it makes a bad mess and when I clean it I have to use a lot of water and detergent to remove the crud.

I will drop the oil and see how much I have, because last time I rode it, I could smell the sweet smell of oil burning especially when I had the bike constantly over 50 mph for a few minutes, like in the sand washes (where the only way to ride a Berg is fast).

I guess I can leave it at that for the moment and not fix what's not broken, but I was thinking something was a bit bad there...

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The best thing to do then is go to auto parts store and buy a couple of spray cans of engine degreaser. It doesn`t take much and it makes cleaning it up a snap. That is what I do when I clean the engine on my bike.
Check the screws see if they are tight and check the other fittings as well. Sounds like something might be a wee bit loose.