2nd valve adjustment.

I've noticed that quite a few people use the 1/8 turn technique. But the thread pitch actually requires a 1/3 turn. You probably have one or more open valves due to that error. I also have noticed that the adjuster moves a consistent amount while tightening the lock nut. So as a further short cut, I discovered that it is quicker and easier to open/ loosen the adjuster a full 1/2 turn, then when I tighten the lock nut, I don't need to try to hold the adjuster, I let it move with the lock nut and it always stops at the 1/3 turn mark. I have done it this way for the past 5 adjustments, I have had dead on settings every time. It is much quicker since I am no longer trying to keep the adjuster screw stationary while tightening the lock nut.

Splat, the thread pitch on the Husaberg is 1mm, a 1/3 turn will give you a clearance of .33mm

The 1/8 turn gives a clearance of 0.125mm (so close to 0.1 it doesn't matter)

For what its worth, the KTMs have an 0.75mm pitch so they work on a 1/6 turn.

If you think that is bad, try working on a KTM rfs. Tthey are even more cramped. Many owners have to drain their coolant and remove a radiator, inorder to adjust their valves. Funny thing is, most of the ktmtalkers like to praise how easy it is to work on their rfs.

Well you know t-jet-tim we Swedes like a challenge
just like the next bloke :wink:

The Husaberg had a LOT more room when built in Sweden
'Above statement whas a pure lie....'

Also check its on the compression stroke and not the exhaust.

I use the 1/8 turn / 3/4 of the nut flat method and it 90% of the time works great.

Lloyd