2010 FE450 burning oil

The best way to check the engine is to do a Leak down test, your lokal Husa workshop will fix that.
Husa mec.

DeeG said:

I have a theory about my oil burning issue. See if this makes any sense...

Last night I fired up the bike in the garage. No noticeable smoke except when I hit the throttle really hard - harder than I typically do on the trail. Everything seemed fine. I also noticed that my oil level has only gone down a slight amount since my last oil change - almost 500 miles ago.

This morning I did some maintenance on the bike. When I fired it up afterwards, it was burning oil quite badly - especially when I hit the throttle.

But I noticed that the cam chain was making a terrible racket. So, my theory is that my cam chain tensioner is getting flaky, and when it doesn't engage properly, it messes up the valve timing, which allows it to burn oil and run poorly. Is that a sound theory?

It just so happens that I just picked up a DJH cam chain tensioner, which I am going to install when I check the valves over the holidays. So hopefully this will fix the problem. We shall see.

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I just don't see how incorrect valve timing can burn more oil. Oil is burnt by either getting past the valve stem oil seals, into the airbox via the breather (due to overfilling or excessive blow-by) or past the rings. None of these have anything to do with valve timing.
I have over 170 hours on my 570 and get no oil smoke either on startup (hot or cold) or while riding. The oil level never moves between changes although I do change it pretty regularly at around 15 hours.

DeeG said:

On the last ride, my fellow rider noted that there was a smaller puff each time I shifted.

Is this normal?

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Everytime you close the throttle while the motorcycle is moving you'll create a short vacuum in the cylinder because there is no explosions going on.

This vacuum sucks the oil from your heads along the valve stems. This is not uncommon.

These rubbers seem to be worn a bit in your case, which is normal f.i. with old cars. Don't remember the names of these *******s though. Valve seals?

If you have the right tools you could remove these seals without having to remove the complete valves.

Take care.

The complete head needs to come off for this operation

Noppy said:

The complete head needs to come off for this operation

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Not necessarily. If the valves themselves are in good order and sealing well you can remove the cam and tappets and using a spark plug adaptor pressurise the cylinder with an air compressor which holds the valves shut so you can remove the colletts, spring and seal with the valves in situ. Seen this done on cars before but, thinking about it, on a single cylinder bike it's probably just as easy to take the head off!

Just went through this with my 2010 FX450. Like many of the KTM 450 bikes that run the same piston and cylinder as our bike the OEM piston oil ring is a poor design. I had close to 300 hours on my bike before I finally did my tear down, but it was apparent by the amount of carbon buildup and gunk on top of the piston that it had been burning oil for many hours.

I picked up a Wossner piston kit (8707D* where * is A,B,C and denotes piston size. You will have to measure up your cylinder to see if it is 95.00, 95.01, or 95.02mm). This kit comes with a more current oil ring style and does a much better job of holding back the oil. A very light hone job to break the glaze (but not wear through the nikseal) drop the new piston in and I have zero smoke now. Bike fires up and runs as good as ever, but no longer gives the blue puff when revved.

I want to say the piston kit was around $160 at Munn racing, and I picked up a cometic top end gasket set for about $40ish that included base gasket, head gasket, valve seals, and a couple of o-rings that didn't fit anywhere, lol..

For $200 and some time in the garage its not all that bad price wise (although some 2t guys would like to make you think otherwise)

Most of the time spent on the rebuild will be cleaning the bike and engine up, and getting the engine out of the frame to work on it. Although you could put a piston in while it is in the frame, it is much easier to work on it on a workbench.

My 2010 FE390 was doing the same thing. 4000 plus miles. Pulled it apart and found a bad valve seal. Im putting 4 new seals in and rings while Im there. My intake tract was full of dirt and sand. That could have been the cause. It was pulled out and cleaned. Should be good for another 4k!

newgensti said:

Most of the time spent on the rebuild will be cleaning the bike and engine up, and getting the engine out of the frame to work on it. Although you could put a piston in while it is in the frame, it is much easier to work on it on a workbench.

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Copy that with the motor in its a 3 handed job :lol:

DG if your leak down test comes back ok then you'll know for sure the stem seals are shagged, have you checked the little screen in the banjo bolt on the under side of the head ? If it's blocked the top end won't scavenge properly and you'll end up with a lot of oil pooling up around the exhaust valves.

Davo explains the tdc finding procedure very well with illustrations in the 70 degree valve check thread

I thought I described finding top dead centre twice, once with the valve cover off and once with the magneto cover off on the old school bikes. Can't remember with the valve cover on.
Use a drinking staw down the spark plug hole. 6th gear and wind via counter sprocket bolt.
There are 2 Top Dead Centres so you may have to do it twice. I'm not sure if the valves are all the way shut on the exhaust stroke top dead centre.
Paste up some photo's of your progress DeeG and good luck mate.

Hi DeeG,

I would be surprised if your motor has a mechanical issue that is causing puffs of smoke.

I had this same problem on my 09 570............turns out I was running the oil level too high. I was getting puffs of smoke on start up, and a lot of smoke when going down steep rocky canyons.

Be sure and set your oil level on the site glass per the manual. If I am not mistaken the oil level should be in between half way up the sight glass and 3/4 of the way up the sight glass.

You cannot, as I did for a while, just dump the oil and put in what the manual says, the oil level will be too high. So, give your sight glass a once over with the bike standing up right on level ground and see what level the oil is at.

Most everyone that I know of that has a 70* motor are going well in excess of 300 hours with no problems, and some are going to as much as 500 hours before having to re ring the piston.

I replaced my cam chain tensioner with a spring loaded type from http://www.dirttricks.com/timing_chain_tensioner.htm

Right on,
I don't really think you Need to do a leak down test. Once you have set the oil level correctly I'm betting that you won't have anymore puffs of smoke coming out the exhaust and I'm also betting that your valves will be inspec. I have well over 200 hours on my 09 570 and the valves have not moved since the initial set at about 20 hours.