Ok, time for another update.
160 hrs and 5714 km. Should be more by now, but unfortunately my old body isn't always capable of late!
Both wp seals, ie coolant and oil, were weeping so I got the latest version of Orangeberg's kit to put in. I also had previously got a cam chain kit and a DVSK from Taffy in anticipation of putting them in sometime. So now seemed like a good time, as its been a bit hot for too much riding of late, mid 30s most days, so why not some shed time?.
I also got some new valve stem seals, cam bearings and roller followers while it was apart.
Pull the rocker cover and it all looks and feels like brand new, a good start.
Pull the cam chain tensioner and its on 17 of 20 clicks, at what appears to be 1 mm clicks. Looks like the cam chain is due. Its also loose on the cam sprocket, so definitely due.
Ground the pins off a link on the original DID endless chain after stuffing the tunnel with some rags using a Dremel. Easy!
Pulled the head and couldn't believe that there was no carbon buildup. A wipe with the finger in the combustion chamber and on the piston and its down to aluminium! Good jetting perhaps?
Pull valves and all look perfect. Test fit new springs and no material to be removed, so quick lap, and reassemble with new stem seals. Test fit rocker cover and some material needs to be removed, so Dremel to the rescue again.
Debate with myself whether to change what appear to be perfect roller followers and cam bearings, and decided to put the originals back, so now I have some spare bearings in the shed for next time. Hmmm.
Pull the clutch cover and setup the wp kit. The existing bearing is OK, so its just the seals gone. A new, bigger bearing is with the new kit anyway. Put a new reed valve in as they are cheap, and the 501 used to wear them out, but the original looked fine.
Everything else under the cover looks pristine too, nice!
Pull the DID chain out and feed the IWIS in. No need to rotate the crank as I've got the clutch cover off. FYI crank end float is about + 0.5 mm.
Reassemble the top end with new head gasket. 3 clicks on the cam chain tensioner now, and its tight over the cam sprocket. Nice!
Put clutch cover on and it won't pull up the last 1/2 mm. Bugger! Stuff about, but have to pull the clutch and find the kick start return spring has slipped, so fix that and the cover now tightens up nicely. Must have slipped when pulling the cover. Note to self, apply pressure to kick start shaft if and when removing cover again. No sealant on the gasket, just a new one with a smear of HT grease.
Nearly ready to go, but I couldn't resist finding out what my jetting is. Some posts previously, mention the dyno work I had done, and there is a plot in my gallery of an apparent 63 dynojet hp. Whatever, the work also included a muffler end cap mod opened out to 47 mm ID with perforated straight through tube. Throaty, but OK, and I don't like noisy bikes. On Carl's dyno with the Lineaweaver jet kit installed and the stock muffler it showed 33 hp. When he finished it was 43 hp, almost 1/3 increase.
Using my jet drills as a gauge, where relevant, the carb is setup as follows.
MAJ 190-200
PAJ 3/8 t or say 55
R&D Flex pilot screw 1 3/8
main 150-155
pilot 40
start 85
Lineaweaver needle 6/7 from top
ap 0.2 mm stroke
Fresh coolant and oil and it coughs on the first kick, fluffs a bit the next couple and dies and then settles into a nice quiet idle on the 5th kick.
10 min shakedown and back to the shed to check for leaks, and none to see, I'll let it cool, and write this post while it does. Next is crack the coolant bleed in the head again, and do another 10 mins and then dump the oil and filter.
Should be good to good for heaps more of my riding pleasure.
Thanks to Taffy and OrangeBerg for their work on coming up with their upgrades.
Nearly beer o'clock!
Cheers
Steve
PS
For sale, conical valve springs, only 160 hrs! Appear to be in perfect condition, and mostly only used on Sundays.
