2007 FE 650, So Far

A bit more on my 650 from another thread on spoke nipples copied here,

I've been playing with wheels over the years, and so far feel is OK. How to explain what is the right feel is difficult, but if you get a newish wheel that is undamaged with no siezed spoke nipples then loosen a few nipples one at a time and tighten again by 1/2 turn to get the 'feel'

With my bikes when they are new at the first tyre change or so I remove every nipple and put anti sieze on the threads and under the nipple head so that I'll always be able to play with them in the years to come.

Although by removing one nipple at a time doesn't affect the truing too much it can still move around a bit. I always set up a pointer/dial gauge in the swingarm, or forks and check the rim centring and trueness before and can then get it back where it started afterwards.

Incidentally, when I did this with my new FE 650 I found that the front rim was 3 mm to the left of centre between the forks which explained the subtle drift to the left on smooth ground.

I trued it centre and now it goes nice and straight.

Steve

Hi Bergers,

I've finally got around to posting some pics, so you can visit my gallery for some bling. http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _album.php I cleaned her up to take to Suttos so the motor can be stripped and the oil leaks fixed. Sutto insisted that it be fixed after I emailed him photos of the evidence. I'll collect on Friday on the way through to Louee, so it better be ready.

The suspension is now sorted, 0.46 in the forks and 9.7 up back and revalved by Frank Pons at Biketek to suit my rocks.

25 hours and 1000 km so far of sheer bliss. Best bike I've ever ridden, love it.

Steve http://www.husaberg.org/modules/PNphpBB ... mage_7.gif
7

me too!!

So Louee was the first proper test of my suspension since the valving work was completed. I had dialled it in at home and never felt the need to touch it at Louee. Wonderful, no deflection, no surprises, just traction and control over the whoops, rocks and ruts. Meant that I could ride all day Saturday when others couldn't.

Get your suspension setup properly to suit you, you'll discover a whole new world of riding pleasure.

Steve

Hi Guys,

I thought I'd post an update. 45 hours now and going strong. I've added some more functional bling and posted a couple of pics here. A case saver, just in case, from B&B and some radiator guards from Force Accessories having seen what happened to cafey18's radiator at Louee. I'd prefer B&B but they don't do them for Bergs and adapting them as per my 501 looked more difficult so I took the easy way out.
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

Both heavy duty bits that just bolted on with 1-2 day delivery after CC over the phone.

The 650 does seem to use rear tyres more than anything I've had before, not sure why.......... Good thing I can get Dunlop wholesale. I'm currently using BS 201 front and Dunlop 952 rear. I did put an S12 on for a coast ride, but I like to keep them for the soft stuff as they just tear to shreds normally. I've got a couple of Dunlop fronts to experiment with but I like the BS 201s in my terrain.They steer like an S12 but last 4-5 times longer and are 20-30 $ cheaper. Had a few rides in some moist conditions lately too which was novel, good thing the 650 is easy to control.

There are still a couple of drips from the crankcase join after Suttos fixed it, but I don't think I'll worry about it.

As noted previously, the radiator fan does come on a lot, but no evidence of overheating, and it hasn't flattened the battery either, so so far, so good.

I have also noted that after a big hill climb, when you pull up at the top to wait for the stragglers, or half way up to help, that it can need the hot start to fire again, which means finding neutral because you need a clutch hand on the carb, which can be a bit of a pain so I think I'll get a remote hot start too (remember, its not about bling, if its about function!). Seems like heat soak, or something and may indicate that I am right on the limit of lean carburation.

Had a ride a couple of weeks ago in the Vic high country and we were getting back to camp a little late. Me, all smug, thinking no worries, I've got a new bike with a nice QH headlight. Didn't work though. My head torch had failed too. Duhhh. Trouble shooting at home found the bulbs OK and placed suspicion on the switch as it seemed to be working intermittantly after some flicking of the switch, after which it didn't. Further inverstigation revealed that the yellow, power cable's pin in the multi pin connector from the switch to the wiring harness behind the headlight had not seated properly in the housing, so pushed it in properly and now seems OK.

Not much else to report really, fuel, oil, Delo400 of course, and tyres and ride. Valves have not needed adjustment either. Runs great, starts everytime and leave a huge grin on my dial every time. I do like the magic button.

Steve

Hi DaleEO,

You may be right about the rich condition, guess the fingers typed before I really thought about what is going on. Thing is the hot start has only been necessary when there is definite heat coming from below when it has done some work. For more normal, give and take riding, its been fine.

I installed the Lineaweaver jet kit as per Lineaweaver Kit Instructions. With the Kouba T fuel screw I ended up with the mixture at 1 1/8 turns and I lifted the clip by one groove on the needle to lean it a bit from the kit recommendations. I'm running a 160 main and I don't know what the pilot is as it has had its marking removed. According to the the kit instructions its a 48 or 49L. I have still to test 150 and 155 mains which I have, but as I'm rarely on it, the main that is in my normal riding, I haven't got too excited yet. This may however be the answer, as these hills I rode did require some main jet. I have ridden it over altitude ranges from sea level to 2000 m / 6500 ft so far and the behaviour is the same at both extremes.

When at sea level I found that an extra 1/4-1/2 turn on the fuel screw helped, and confirmed to me that its pretty right for my normal riding is at 800-1200 m, or 2500 - 4000 ft. maybe at the higher altitudes I could go to 1 turn. Thing is, a couple of these hills the other day start at 500 m and end at 1600 m. Get it wrong and its a big ride to the bottom to have another go.

I also removed the AP rod as per instruction and got a worthwhile improvement in initial throttle response by disconnecting the tps.

On my to do list is to experiment with leaner mains, and to reenable the ap, but with a set screw installed to control the duration. Too busy having fun riding at the moment though. Also going to put the steering head back to standard to see how that works now that I've got the suspension sorted.

Cheers
Steve

G'day cafey18,

Might have to follow up on the dyno. Maybe I can arrange something for the day before the AGM, or as I'm going to Louee again in a couple of weeks I might be able to piggy back on that. We shall see. haven't been to Louee for years and now its twice in as many months!

I definitely think that heat soak has something to do with it, as if I stop and then restart within perhaps 20 secs its no problem. Its just if it sits a bit longer, then the hot start is needed. Its not a big problem, and it runs great, but the dyno will be interesting.

What does he do about rear tyres? Did he play with your AP?

Cheers
Steve

G'day Bergers,

I fitted the remote hotstart. Its a KTM part that replaces the front brake master cylinder cover. Its billet, with KTM engraved on it and anodized orange. I polished it off. Means that if and when I need it, I don't have to find neutral. You usually only need it in an awkward spot. http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

I also decided to fit the AP back onto the carb. The Lineaweaver instructions say to remove the actuating rod which I did and can't say I missed it. I did miss it when fully deactivated on my 501 so I thought I'd fit a bolt to make it adjustable on the 650. I can get at the adjusting bolt with an 8 mm spanner without taking the tank off, so no excuses not to get it right. A quick ride around home is inconclusive so far.
A pic here
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

I'm starting at 1 mm, the amount of exposed thread on the bolt and will do some more testing next weekend at Louee. I'm happy with about 0.7 mm on the 501. I hadn't been to Louee for nearly 10 years and now its twice in a few months. I've also gone down to a 155 main.

After Louee, I've booked in on Monday at CafeRacer for a session on the dyno. It'll be interesting. More power is not the objective, but I guess I just want to find out, am I still too rich, or is 155 too small? I've spent that much money on this thing now that a bit more to finish it off will be OK, at least that's what I told the wife. When this is done I've promised her I'll fit the 300 kit and the Vapor speedo to her KLX. Both have been sitting in the shed for 6 months now. No rest for the wicked as they day.

Steve