2007 FE 650, So Far

Hi Guys,

As some of you are aware, I got a new one for Christmas, arrived a bit late though, early January. Its what I get for ordering on the 23rd I suppose.

I few have asked me how its going so I thought I'd post a report here and link to this as necessary. I haven't got any pics yet, so like a number of other things, its work in progress.

Bike is 2007 FE 650 http://www.husaberg.com.au/bike.php?bike=18

In answer to the question 'Why a 650?', the quote from the web site link above summarises nicely:

"When logic goes out the window and fun factor is a priority, the FE650e comes into it's own. A twist of the throttle is all it takes to engage warp speed and make your eyes water and mouth grin. This motorcycle is an addiction, once you ride one you won't want to stop."

And “Why another Berg?â€Â

Hi Guys,

Here is a bit more info re setup.

Jetting.
I installed the Lineaweaver jet kit as per Lineaweaver Kit Instructions, http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... structions

With the Kouba T fuel screw I ended up with the mixture at 1 1/8 turns and I lifted the clip by one groove on the needle to lean it a tad. The end result justified the kit as noticable improvement over stock, making it more linear and progressive in its delivery. Gotta be a good thing with this much grunt on tap. I still felt it could be a little smoother right off the bottom so I played with the TPS and ened up with a further improvement in its linear response by disconnecting it. Its now very very good.

Gearing
I found that the 15/45 gearing standard meant that I was working the clutch a bit more than I preferred in really knarly, steep stuff. I tried 14/45 which was a bit low, and very similar to 15/48 so went for a Chain Gang 47 which seems just right. Brings the gears together a bit, makes 2nd and 3rd a bit mure usable and makes hill starts simpler in either 1st, or 2nd. I did'nt really need the +/- 200 kph top speed either.

Incidentally, I've run Chain Gang for years now and their product and service is excellent, often delivered overnight. Sprockets are generallylaser cut made to order. I find that one rear sprocket will consume 2 chains and 4 countershaft sprockets. They will also sell a chain to suit and seem happy to recommend anything based on your needs. Good guys. http://www.chaingang.com.au/

Steve

Yep,

Silicone the circlip and align the gap in the circlip with a hollow spline so that you get maximumbearing of the circlip on the shaft is a great idea, costs nothing and is cheap insurance. I also carry a spare cirp in my tool bag, just in case.

Engine Oil
I've run Delo 400 in my FE501 for some years after originally running Mobil 1 Racing T. Durability of the valve gear is definitely superior, rollers have lasted nearly twice as long so its Delo400 for the 650 after a couple of changes of Repco/Mobil 15/40 mineral, 3 changes in 3 hours to bed the rings. I've had personal experience of glazed bores when my new road bike was delivered with full synthetic without my knowledge. We've even here at work in the fleet had new Toyotas and Subarus with glazed bores and excessive oil consumption from being driven too gently when new.

Frame Lubrication
I also like to pull it apart when its close to new to see how it works and fill everything with good grease. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the steering head and swingarm in particular had more lube in them than I've ever seen in a new bike, impressed. Nevertheless, I put some more lube in there, my theory being that if behind a wheel bearing seal, or elsewhere is grease, it may not offer any additional lubrication, but it stops anything that gets past the seal going any further. Works for me.

I also, at the first tyre change or so, remove every spoke nipple and lube with antisieze the nipple threads and under the head of the nipple. This makes life so much easier a few years down the track if wheel maintenance is required. This is also simplified by zip tying the spokes together where they cross, and if you break one they are less likely to cause grief with a brake or chain, or puncture.

Geometry
When adjusting the gearing as noted above, I also lengthened the chain by one link which resulted in a wheelbase increas of about 6 mm. This also loads the front a bit more as well which I generally find beneficial. This is not always understood, but moving the rear wheel back changes the weight distribution, putting more weight on the front. Think about lifting a loaded wheel barrow, the further back you lift along the handles, the easier/lighter it gets.

When I had the steering head apart I also put the shaft in the slow steering position. As I was also making other changes with springs at the time I really can't say yet whether this is the better option, but I will change it back when I get all the other variables to suit to experiment further.

Wheel Alignment
Asc noted above I pull every nipple out and lube it up. Before I do this I remove the tyres and put the wheel back in and check where the rim is in relation to the frame, forks, and swingarm so that when I true the rims up again after reassembly I know where they are suppposed to go.

I was surprised to find that, for the first time ever that I've checked it, the front rim was not centred between the forks. A proper string align with the rear confirmed that it should be centred. The rim was offset about 3 mm to the left. When truing it up I centred it and it now travels in a straight line hands free. The rear rim was centred at the in the swingarm, which is not always the case, but that certainly makes it easier to setup. I can usually get less than 0.5 mm runout both laterally and radially which seems fine for a dirt bike with knobbies.

Steve

Go the Delo 400, its proven and cheap. I've been able to get 20 litre drums at the Henty field days on special for $70. If you can access it from your loacl wholesaler its $25 for 5 litres.

I've heard some not good stories about the Motorex, one of which was that iin WSS the Motorex sponsored Yamaha R6 team used Castrol to avoid clutch and gearbox problems. Consider this a rumour only, that will obviously be denied by those that know, and I won't quote my source, but its one that has yet to give me a bum steer. And I apologise in advance if this upsets anyone.

Steve

cafey18,

Note my comments above re the durability of the valve gear in my 501 with Delo 400 vs Mobil 1 4T.

With my new bike I immediately dumped the Motorex and went through the break in as discussed above and am now on Delo 400. Do a search on this site and you will find that Husaberg luminary Dale Lineaweaver recommends it and previously sold an almost identical version as Husaberg Oil in the US. Many Bergers use the Delo 400 with no reported problems to my knowledge. Others feel comfortable buying an expensive, 'motorcycle' oil. Each to their own.

My 501 now has almost 500 hours on it with the original clutch, no problems with it or yet with the 650 clutch.

Delo 400 is cheap and works and as liitle is used in Bergs you can afford to change it often.

You will find that others use Shell Rorella diesel oil.

Steve

Garry,

See you at Louee soon
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... 0136#50136

Steve