From the docs
Rear suspension
About the rear shock
It's very difficult to meddle with the rear shock bar the clickers, spring and preload. The shock needs re-gassing after any work and unlike jap units they have to be done with a special tool so unless you want to go to a bladder, the shock needs charging by a WP specialist. The bladder is considered of equal performance by many to a re-nitrogen-charged standard unit. Fitting a shraeder valve could possibly lead to the chain ripping it out of the reservoir body on G-outs unless it's VERY short!
The code is written on the Spring around it's middle. The 250mm long springs are easy to swap in and out but the 265's are very awkward and need compressing just to uncouple the end cup.
Lightly tighten the preload ring as it can squeeze an internal piston creating wear. Tighten the pinch screw with it facing you so that an allen key can loosen it for making adjustments. It's possible to measure the spring preload in the bike with a tape measure, just get the paddock stand under the belly and the rear wheel free of the ground. This is also the best way to adjust the preload; with the swingarm/wheel dangling off the back of the paddock stand, it should be easy to turn the spring with preload ring all by hand. Each turn of the ring is worth 2mm + - preload.
Setting sag and ride height
'01 and '02s have a race sag of between 85-100mm and a sag of 30-35mm. The '03s+ need 90-105mm. Best place to measure is from the top of the spindle nut to the 'V' inbetween the ducktail and the number plate. Cut a little flat edge into the plastic to help accuracy. Have you checked BOTH heim bearings, if worn, your figures are useless!
Where the rear axle is in the adjustment slot makes a difference to which spring rate is required. Example; your axle is at beginning of slot and you achieve static sag and rider sag with an 84-250 spring if now you had the axle at the end of adjustment slot you would need an 88-250 spring to achieve the same sag. It is the law of mechanical leverage as consequence of that your rebound has also changed (Viking).
Setting up the shock
Firstly set the Correct race sag and the clicks as per manual. Next try the clicks in and out for fun-about 4 clicks per time will let you know.
Try different sag settings for better steering around slow obstacles. Around 90-95mm will give excellent turning response whilst the suspension may have been compromised (I.E it may now feel too stiff). If you have raised or lowered the rear you can go back to 'as was' and keep the change in pitch by raising or lowering the front forks through the triple clamps. So if you raised the rear initially and liked the steering, put it back to 'as was' and instead lower the front to set the bike at the same 'pitch' (raise forks through the clamps).
..now wanting to look at suspension settings..
