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2001 FE650e - How to make your engine easy to start

Joined Jul 2017
26 Posts | 4+
Norway, Bergen
Hi guys! I understand this forum is full of expertise so i hope i you can help me out!

-A month ago i bought myself a 2001 Husaberg FE650e, FINALLY!
The engine was sent to Taffmeisters for rebuild and tuning in 2012 - 2 owners ago.

The engine is hard to start on the kick, because of the high compression, and the starter engine is just a joke because of the slipping. I've been pulling it behind a car and started it on the 6th gear the few times i've drove it.

I would really appreciate being able to start my beast with the kick!!!
-I guess changing the high comp piston to a original one will help alot?
-I also consider replacing the carburetor, or atleast the jets, will this have any improvement on the starting? It's a stock Dellorto PHM 40.

I think the 650 is powerful enough as it is when original, so it does not matter if I lose any power, as long as it's easier to start.

-High comp piston
-Dual valve springs
-Inconel Valves
-Acrapovic exhaust

Any inputs on what i can do to my Berg that will make it easyer to start, is highly appreciated, Thanks!


2001 FE650e
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Go to Facebook, Taffmeisters and then videos. our NTB650 has a 3mm taller piston in it and has no trouble starting. I won't have put a 3mm taller piston in your engine back in the day.

a month is a long time on a Husaberg let alone 5 years. you can wreck a Husaberg in 30 minutes.

first of all, i would study the videos on how to start them better. the kickstart sledge md really helps start them up.

5 years ago I was still having doubts about the ignition timing position so have a look at the static white line, this should be 0.5mm to the left of centre.

I can tell you ow that it would take ALL, ALL 100% of my skill to get your bike running sweetly. they really are fickle.

valve clearances, a clean carb, ignition timing.

just get it started and get the idle and fuel screw sorted.

since your bike I have changed the following in 5 years:
we go to the 08 cam
we created the 'easystart' kit. this is NOT the same as the spruce up kit.
we have a choke on the left handlebar meaning you can have a perfect choke.


regards

Taffy
 
I don't mean to insult but it's well worth watching a few vids on how to start these. There's certainly a nack. Some try getting to tdc, then using manual decomp nudge it just passed. Raise the lever and give it a boot.

Or get it to tdc and allow the auto decomp (click when fully raised) then boot.

I'd go easy first. Like valves is a quick Job, so is the filter. I removed the starter on mine, beyond useless lol.


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....and get rid of that bloody seat! horrible!!!

we do an all black seat cover.

regards

Taffy
 
With respect to starting, I've kickstarted a nominally maintained and unmodified '08 650 and an '05 550, both cold, and in both cases it started in first/second kick, easy.

Then in case you are as dismayed and alarmed as I am by Taffy's salesmanship by way of telling you that your bike is ugly, and needs more stuff from him to start, and the dubious and immediate off-hand disawoval of the rebuild without asking for further data as would be common sense and common decency, then perhaps it would be prudent to seek a second opinion from a competent mechanic, right? :) You're quite close to the source being based in Norway.

Re. the carb: I would start by cleaning it and probably just replacing the jets. Then I'd dump the old Dellorto if that doesn't work out with minimal effort.

Re. the high-compression piston: First: Is there a decompression mechanism, manual or automatic? Does it work?

Second: You might be able to have the piston machined down. If it were my bike, I'd take it apart as a winter project, give it a once-over and measure compression while you're in there, and check if the piston is machinable.
 
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My mate mick has a 07 650 berg and he uses the e start, first with the decompression until she starts to wind over, not from the beginning because he buggered up one gear wheel torque limiter, it gives this a hard time and then they start to slip.

Cold I always give my 450 one twist of the throttle just before I start it, choke on and hit the button and she just starts with a bang or kick it I just get the piston to top and one boot and bag she fires up away.
Do not use the throttle when kicking it over I have found.

I do not use the decompression, I have only had to use that once when the bike was upside down and oil went into through the valve.

It's in the art of jetting to get a engine to start well.

Make sure to blow out all the idle holes of crud with compressed air pull everything apart.
Look at the spark plug, is it running rich or lean ? first start with the needle lowing or higher just by one clip to what you may recon by what the plug says and remember the air screw, learn how to set that just right. and when you start it from cold listen to how it 8 strokes for what time, this will give you some idea if it's to rich or lean.

It's all about understanding what is going on with carbys and then one can fiddle about to fine tune it just spot on for everything, but that may take 20 times pulling the carby out and playing with it, using different needles and jets.
 
Taffy: I'm going to check out you videos, Thanks! First of all i want you to know that i am going to get this bike run like a Queen, with or without your percent of skills. But when you say it would take 100% of your skills, it makes me a little worried, but most of all it gives me motivation! I like challenges, and this is not the biggest one i faced in my life, or will.

I kind of like the Blue and yellow Husaberg Seat! It screams Husaberg and i like that! I have the Black Seat cover also, i may take it on one day :D

Gregfreefaler: I have seen alot of videos starting a Berg, and i know How to do it, i just have no chance because of the high compression.

You took the easy way removing the starter, my mind is set different from your's i can tell, as im thinking of making myself a replacement gear without the torque limit mechanism. Just a solid gear between the starter engine and the cranck - Im i crazy, or can this work? I guess the starter engine wont like it, but if i have to replace the starter omce in i while i still dont care.

Tourist: The carb was the first thing i cleaned after i bought i bike, wich i do to everything i buy that got a carb mounted to it :D I had it completely in parts and all of the jets have been cleaned.

The manuel decomp mechanisme has been removed, i have the auto decomp on the camshaft.
A few days ago i noticed a ticking noise from the engine when i stopped at the gas station for tanking (i had drove it for like 1km). I drove it home to locate the problem, finding a worn camshaft and that the spring on the decomp mechanisme was broken, wich made the spring rotate and loose its tension - Thats what made the sound i guess. De weight on the outerside of the sprocket was all loose, between the stopper and one of the bolt holding the sprocket to the shaft. BUT im not sure If this mechanisme worked as it should before the spring broke, i hope not..



Side questions: Should there be any sideways movement on the rockerarm when mounted? I had it apart yesterday, i mounted it so there is just about half a mm movement or so, just so it does not pinch.
21cv095.jpg


Can someone tell me the difference between this shafts? The total length is the same, but on the bottom one, the exhaust lifter is 2mm further away from the sprocket, than on the camshaft that was mounted in the engine.
2ck9rl.jpg


AND there is a little differens on the lifters itselfs. The new one i got here (the upper one is more the shape of a egg, the one that was monted is more oval as you can see
i4ijrd.jpg
 
that camshaft is no good fella. I used to have those made and they are too soft. I replaced them all under warranty for everyone who asked or knew and had bought them off me. all except one person....

so the cam has got to go.

the decomps are the same but the lower camshaft in your photo has a shoulder protruding out if you look from the front. this shoulder must be machined off.

there is a little bolt that stops the decomp opening too far OR, you may have the hole where there was one. REMOVE it. they break and fall down the engine.

we do a modified ADC spring which if you fit correctly will work first time.

regards

Taffy
 
I have ordered the modified decomp mechanisme from you a few days ago... But okei if you say so, i will order a 08 cam and get the new ADC mechanisme installed, please send it with F16! Is there anything else have to be done to the new 08 shaft before i can install it? Steel sprocket i guess? Thanks again
 
I wouldn't say taking a starter off is an easy option. I'd say it's a sensible option. If it doesn't work and the bike starts first time with a kick, what's the point in having the starter there? I have better things to spend my money on than a bigger starter and battery etc. It also interfered with the new carb install so it made sense to go. But I can see why you would want it and want it to work as it should.




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I have ordered the modified decomp mechanisme from you a few days ago... But okei if you say so, i will order a 08 cam and get the new ADC mechanisme installed, please send it with F16! Is there anything else have to be done to the new 08 shaft before i can install it? Steel sprocket i guess? Thanks again

Can u let us know where u can get 2008 cam? Please and thank you.
 
through 2004-2008 the 450 and 550 got the 5521 cam while the 650 got the 08 cam. 08 is a code and not a year!

the 08 cam is still for sale and I hold one in stock all the time.

the 2001-2003 bikes (the 470, 550 as well as the 2001-2002 650) had the same 53 cam which is really the same as the 5521 cam but with nasty concave flanks. if anything the 53 is more of a 'tractor' than even the 5521 is. the 400 got a weak 01 similar to the 53, the 501 got a re-phased 53 cam called the '55' and also, in 2003 the 650 got the 5521 cam first.

regards

Taffy
 
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I wouldn't say taking a starter off is an easy option. I'd say it's a sensible option. If it doesn't work and the bike starts first time with a kick, what's the point in having the starter there? I have better things to spend my money on than a bigger starter and battery etc. It also interfered with the new carb install so it made sense to go. But I can see why you would want it and want it to work as it should.

How can a bigger starter and a better battery help, when its the torque limiter slipping? Why is the torque limiter installed in the first place? To prevent damaging the starter right?
 
Sorry I missed that bit, it's a common mod to change the starter. the standard starter isn't usually strong enough to turn the engine


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Hmm Okei, i dont have that problem. The starter works fine, it is the torque limiter gear that starts spinning/slipping. I will take the gear apart and see if i can shims it up somehow, to prevent it from slipping that early. Guess it is a reason the T limiter is installed in the first place, so removing it/installing a solid gear will prob. not be a good idea anyway?

What about the sideway movement on the rockerarm, should there be any? Or just barely?
 
I also had a problem getting the gear in neutral. It is hard to take from 1st to neutral, so most of the times it pops right into second gear.

Can it be as simple as the clutch?
 
I wouldn't say taking a starter off is an easy option. I'd say it's a sensible option. If it doesn't work and the bike starts first time with a kick, what's the point in having the starter there? I have better things to spend my money on than a bigger starter and battery etc. It also interfered with the new carb install so it made sense to go. But I can see why you would want it and want it to work as it should.




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I can't kick my berg over when I have my knee braces on and me mate mick can't as well.
 
Hmm Okei, i dont have that problem. The starter works fine, it is the torque limiter gear that starts spinning/slipping. I will take the gear apart and see if i can shims it up somehow, to prevent it from slipping that early. Guess it is a reason the T limiter is installed in the first place, so removing it/installing a solid gear will prob. not be a good idea anyway?

What about the sideway movement on the rockerarm, should there be any? Or just barely?

If you can weld the torque limiter up go for it, just use the decompression to start off with first up if you think the starter motor is copping to much of a flogging.
 
I also had a problem getting the gear in neutral. It is hard to take from 1st to neutral, so most of the times it pops right into second gear.

Can it be as simple as the clutch?

All are the same, you just have to get to know the knack of how to do it.
Shift into neutral while still on the move is the go.
 
can't get neutral before 2003...it's the clutch. there is also a burr on the selector fork often.....grind this off. they don't all do it but the 1989-2002s ALL do it.

rocker arm just loose enough to move.

Taffy
 
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