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10 Forum Topics In One !!!

Joined Nov 2006
164 Posts | 0+
Melbourne Australia
My strong relationship with my 600FE has been tested to the max on the weekend and a divorce due to ireconcilable differences is possible :) I ended up being towed out of the bush with an oil leak, bent bars, broken indicator and no petrol :oops:

We went to a new area that was much tighter trails than the previous stuff I have been on with my Bike.

My problems started with my first fall on a steep hill that I couldn't keep my back wheel from sliding into a rut - the other bikes with smaller engines and smoother power delivery made it up. When I finally got up the hill (after many attempts to start bike) I noticed petrol coming out of carby overflow. I thought it was just from the fall and it would stop and I really didn't notice it on other stops. I think this was the start of my problems as on my last fall I eventually had no petrol in tank and lots in the exhaust. Tank was full when we started and I only did about 25 kms.

I usually stay on my bike so I was annoyed with the amount of falls occuring under power up hill or over logs and rocks. Is it the snap of the 600 engine ? or should I just work on my gearing and tune my carby ? (as I need to pull off carby anyway to fix the problem I had ?). Smoother delivery down low could help ?? I was also having a few more concerns coming down steep inclines possibly engine inertia from different set up on my bikes counter balancer ?

On top of this my oil leak is getting worse and I had to top up on ride. Must be time to pull the crank apart I think as I have virtually eliminated the starter motor O Ring. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

My bike looked a mess !!

After deciding the week before that I loved the power of my 600 over the 450's I am wondering whether I can calm my beast down in tighter stuff ?
 
I'd try taller gearing. It will reduce your accelleration and in theory help with traction. The only problem is your top speed will increase too.

I'm not gunna tell ya to buy a 550 as it's the midrange cause with a bit of tinkering you should get the monster under control.
 
I was thinking of putting a larger sprocket on back so as to have more control over acceleration over throttle range as power at low revs is quite snappy and basically either ON or OFF compared to other bikes I go out with. Wouldn't taller gearing make it harder to control at low speeds take off ?
 
yeah probably. instead of changing the rear go 1 or 2 teeth smaller on the front. That way you should still be in the adjustment range on the swing arm.

just remember 1 tooth on the front is roughly = to 4 on the back. but I think you'll need a pretty large change toreally make a difference.

oh and front sprockets are heaps cheaper than rears.
 
I run a 16/45 on my 650 it aint to bad at all for the tight. However 15/45 is better for Enduro work....
 
I had a similar problem with my 650 and fixed it by installing a G2 Throttle Cam System. The kit comes with a new throttle tube and a selection of cams that vary the amount of engine revs relative to handgrip position. I use the 'slow' cam when riding is more technical terrain. I switch to the 'medium' for mixed riding, and the 'normal' for open desert. There is a very noticable difference between the three cam speeds.
The last half of the action on all of the cams is the same so I still have massive amounts of power when needed, but it doesn't rip my arms off or get too revvy on hills now.
Now that I have tried it on my 650 I am going to get a kit for my FX 600 too.

www.g2ergo.com

It may be that I don't have good coordination and need a crutch, but IMHO this thing works.

Dez
 
my 98 fe600e had the same problem in tight, technical trails. i spent all of my time trying to control wheelspin. part of the problem was the jetting, part the throttle quickness, but mostly the power delivery of the engine (cam?). if it was rocky at all, it would almost destroy a rear knobby in in 100 miles. my solution was to get my old butt on a 400.

ned
 
It's hard to change the nature of the beast. It is a 600. Remember any tight terrain is going to be a compromise with a big bore motorcycle.

Listen to DezDuster. I've heard lots of positive feedback on the throttle cam he is running. It won't transform a 600 to a single-track bike but it will make it more forgiving.
 
hey aussie force what year model is it? I have a "Hi/Low" switch on mine. might be worth trying one of those. I can't tell ya how it works but I know when I accidentally bump the switch to "low" it feels like a 125. might be worth a look.

those throttle cams seem like a good idea. Any one got a link to see how they work / what they are?
 
I have a 99600FE. Hi/Low switch ?? Maybe I need to switch a few things on and off ?? Could it be a manual decomp - mine is auto. Throttle Cam looks good. I tried to find details for distributor in Australia - A1 Accessories- no web site listed or phone number - even tried whitepages. Maybe available via Retailers only ??? I think smoother power delivery will help - after all that is the biggest advantage a 450 would have - if I can deliver less power to the rear and less abruptly then I should have less wheel Spin ?

My Local Berg Dealer is looking into getting one in for me from distributor :)


Thanks for the pointer Dezduster - might get one :)

http://www.g2ergo.com/sitebody/where.shtml
http://www.g2ergo.com/
 
Dezduster - did you get original or pro ? Seems like Husaberg isn't listed (as is the usual with aftermarket stuff) which one would fit my beast ??
 
have a look at ya throttle tube to see whats closest but I think the original gives more mid - low end control. That's what I'd be going for any way.
 
Lowering the gearing will cause more grief unless it gives you the option to use a higher gear.

Getting the carb optimised is the best thing to do, including anice smooth action with the throttle and cable.

The Dellortos are finicky. I never could get a consistent float level. I eventually went to a FCR on my 98 501 from a wrecker and that was well worth the effort, smoothing out the delivery.

Some details in my gallery here:
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _album.php
and in the Doc

I'm currently working on sorting my 07 FE650. I've fitted a Lineaweaver kit and disconnected the tps and its now just about as good as my 501 for smooth, linear, predictable throttle response. I'll update with the details when I get it sorted.

Get the carb right, jetting, float, and mixture first, it will help, and don't be afraid to use the clutch (and rear brake), it will also help mangage an unpredictable throttle reponse.

Steve
 
yeah that's a good point I use my clutch for traction controll rather than a clutch.
 
steve said:
Lowering the gearing will cause more grief unless it gives you the option to use a higher gear.

Getting the carb optimised is the best thing to do, including anice smooth action with the throttle and cable.

The Dellortos are finicky. I never could get a consistent float level. I eventually went to a FCR on my 98 501 from a wrecker and that was well worth the effort, smoothing out the delivery.

Some details in my gallery here:
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _album.php
and in the Doc

I'm currently working on sorting my 07 FE650. I've fitted a Lineaweaver kit and disconnected the tps and its now just about as good as my 501 for smooth, linear, predictable throttle response. I'll update with the details when I get it sorted.

Get the carb right, jetting, float, and mixture first, it will help, and don't be afraid to use the clutch (and rear brake), it will also help mangage an unpredictable throttle reponse.

Steve

It is hard to bog the bike down with whatever gear I choose as power comes in edgy from low end so my thinking on gearing was to lower the speed at the wheels for a certain throttle position or change in throttle ie: a larger back sprocket on the back will mean less wheel revolutions for the same throttle change.

The carb is another thing as I mentioned in initial post my float or needle and seat seemed to stay stuck but I didn't notice any real change in bike running (until I ran out of petrol lol) Would an upgrade be the best choice or if I tune mine will it be OK ? How hard would it be to find an FCR ? I am thinking a throttle cam could be the best fix.
 
Aussie,

A throttle cam is probably cheap, so try it. Gearing changes with the front sprocket is also cheap, so test your theories.

FCRs are around, ring around the wreckers, remember the old spiel, 'let your fingers do the walking', try ebay, they are out there. Supposedly lots of blown up early YZ/WR/CR that are too expensive to fix are in sheds around the country.

Remember that these things have bullet proof clutches, they can be abused all day, as long as you change the oil ALL the time. I do mine at 5 hours or less. The clutch will survive but the contaminated oil might cause problems elsewhere.

Lineaweaver does things to Dellortos too, adapting jap jets etc to sort them properly.

Steve
 
Ok - if I was to replace carb with an FCR what would be recommended size ? I noticed some have TPS ? Is that an option ? and should it be disabled ?

To answer my own questions from previous posts and the doc ! It seems that a 41mm and not worrying about the TPS seem to be the go.

The main question is will the power delivery be more smooth at the bottom end then my existing carb ?
 
hi!
do you know the type of the cam you are on?? there are 3 different types : A, B and C .
A is the one that propably you have on and causes this low and midrange explosion , if it is possible fit a B or C cam , mess a bit with the jetting and you really be surprised of how the beast will calm at the low rpms !!
i know because i ' ve done it!!
power delivery becomes more alike of that of a 450 with very mild low and midrange rpms and
with a big bang explosion at higher rpms.

the problem is that a B or a C cam are very hard to find.

what exhaust system you have on??
 

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