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09 fe570 with 610 + cam

berglsmerg

berglsmerg

Joined Aug 2009
1K Posts | 346+
Charters Towers, Australia
Yep blew it up. 9 months ago. Waited for cp to make me a piston over the Christmas break, work etc has made it a long haul, but at the suggestion of a mate I had a go



















I went for a couloe of rides, it's lean as hell in the bottom end, havent cracked the top end yet maybe tomorrow, midrangge feels good. My notebook died so I need to drag my pc out of the house or borrow one tomorrow to do a bit of tuning. :oops:
 
As I mentioned earlier my notebook died, I didn't back it up :cry: So the pics I have are on my phone. I found these, my friend at the bike shop changed the rod for me in their press, when I got it back I had some new "timing" marks on it cheeky bugger :lol: Hey Damon do you have the pic of the cam I sent to you ? Reckon you can help a mate out and throw it up here ?





While I was in there I replaced;

Oil pump,
Mains
Rod+big end
Countershaft bearing
Drive side balancer needle bearing,
Crankseals x3
Countershaft seal
DJH cam chain tensioner
Cam chain
Thumper racing reprofiled cam, I ordered a degree wheel but it didn't get here in time. So sorry guys no specs this time. I had to go up to 3.05 mm shims, from 2.90 to get to .005 intake and .007 exhaust.
Cam followers, rocker gear,transmission, starter sprague and torque limiter all checked out, rock solid. My clutch linings will need refreshing shortly though.
 
Hahahaa ... those pictures of "rockets" they conveniently put as timing marks are appropriate in such a go-fast bike.

Derrr ... trying to learn all of this ... what tools did you need to go this deep?
 
you want those rockets on your new rod as well ?

head gasket looks familiar :D

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Hey yeah rockets are the go fast item :x It seems it's like the rockets appear when my friend is anywhere near the bike. But that's ok because I have his 351c in my shed and payback is double.

I really didn't use much out of the ordinary tourist, I used combination of propane torch and electric heat gun to warm the cases to liberate bearing races and I made a higher to get the inner crank races off. I don't have a press so my rocket engineer did the rod kit for me.

Sure rockets on the new rod why not ? Might be worth 20g or 30% lay them down in copper before carburising :lol:

Yes the gasket style reminds me of this other gasket I saw, if only I could remember...

Thanks for the photos mate :cheers:

Managed to cadge a notebook out of a mate for tuning this afternoon the catch is have to do his fork seals.
 
no worries,

can't tell from the pic did you make the bearing remover out of steel with a small lip to get behind the bearing ?

intriguing username on the photobucket

More albums from scroteno1
Click to expand...

:D :D :cheers: :cheers:
 
Here's some more from the scrote



The pc did get dragged out to the shed



First bit of correctionizing



Getting closer but it's still a ***** to start, mid to top is awesome, I need tyres, it crashes into the limiter on hardpack, I need chassis tuning I'll get the latest map up tomorrow heaps more fuel in the mid/top, 8% in the idle area. Seems that the closer I set the actual tps position to the throttle plate the easier the starting but it seems to hang up a little when I close the throttle after a good burst. I only had a few hours this afternoon so I'm looking forward to getting back to it tomorrow.

The no1 comes from the rifle pics I wanted to share and the scrote thing..... That will need a few beers to explain.
 
My "higher" was meant to be jigger. I didn't have a lip on it at all the inner race sits flush on .005" shims with nothing to grab. I used a grip clamp on the handles to grab the race and transfer all 150c into it, a bit of a twist and away they come. I also had to have a ktm dealer pull the primary gear it was ultra mega tight and loctited on.
 
nice being able to fiddle with the EFI via computer

I have a WEGOII wide band EGO i need to put in the header of my 700

it looks a bit like a rocket :?
 
You've seen my rod so how's about I see your rocket.

I'll have a std 09 hego on Wednesday, just for ***** giggles Ill make the ecu target 12.5 afr and
See what unfolds.

Fiddling is about all I'm doing mate, the system is set up like a interceptor/piggyback deal, guess it save me a $ on a power commander or jd unit. At least I can switch ignition maps with the map switch.

Edit, I will never pull a jet out again. This is too easy, I don't even get burnt and shredded fingers, just the gentle sounds of one hand typing :oops: and a double clicking mouse

A little bit more fiddling today, still feels laggy right off the bottom at big throttle openings, I'm starting to think its more a function of the longer duration, bigger overlap. But I'll try some more tomorrow. A wideband afr would be sweet right now if only to save me some time!



 
Very informative! :forcefeed:

What ECU tuning gear is it that you have?

(Re. the laggy-off-bottom issue - just a thought based on my naive understanding - the JD tuner afaik can adjust some kind functionality that emulates an accelerator pump or has the same purpose ... anything like that on yours?)
 
Hi Kris, I'm am running the ktm user setting tool and the software available from husaberg.com

I have control of accelerator pump functions


I've been trying to avoid using it so far, I'm not after a massive surge in the lower rev range when I'm just poking around in the bush. I do notice it when I'm on the pavement giving it a pasting. 8)

I'm doing this without the aid of an afr meter or dyno, seat of the (fancy ?) pants style. If I was plug chopping I would end up in the (other) insane asylum

Been chasing the hard starting issue, if I run the idle are super lean ( -20% ) it starts fairly promptly but there is a blue flame and a backfire every time, but when revved it will hang at ~2000rpm for a moment. To go rich on idle I need to go to + 40 before the idles speed starts to decrease. So the next setting will have a lean idle area and the 2 degree 1000rpm cell will be rich to offset this. The tool and software that the dealers use would be lovely. This system is very limited.
 
Ok so here's an update, I was messing with the idle area and left it at+20%. Went away from it for a few hours, when I came back I threw the seat on and blasted off into the distance, well I made it about 800 meters. Braaaap, moooort bang. :oops: fouled plug. Bugger. Pulled the plug cap off checked that as well, no resistance !

Back to work now :( I'll bring you guys some more calamities and embarrassing situations in a couple of weeks.
 
tourist said:
nooo :(

How was it for those 800m though??
Click to expand...

It was fun, fast and noisy, think a little more fiddling with the bottom end and it will be sweet. Ill try to organize a dyno session to quantify the results. It's really good a surprise wheelies :lol:

I just need to remember where I left things before I go for a blat after a siesta. :lol: I was trying to determine where the idle mix needed to be by going rich to lean and listening for the idle speed to change. She got a bit hot idling for so long so I left it to cool down.
 
I have read your tread and also blew up my rod,it looks exactly like your.Do you have any idea what caused this failure?
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I´m going for a 590cc kit with 13.5 piston from Bergos :mrgreen:

I noticed that you have replaced oilpump,I took my pumps out and cleaned very carefully and when I put everything back I noticed the forcepump is upsidedown?I can´t mount the force pump as the repair manual shows,have you noticed this?
The Picture shows how my pumps are fitted,the lower pump should have inner rotor opposite direction but it´s not possible.

[attachment=0:17x647zh]OilpumpsII.jpg[/attachment:17x647zh]
 

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hey jas666, I havent yet determined the failure mode of my big end. Yours is the third Ive seen including mine. I think that in plain bearing engines, too much ignition advance and/or pre ignition will cause a similar failure. My theory was that the oil pump was not supplying the correct flow to the big end. My oil pump died from ingesting sand. I see yours is scored on the face of the outer rotor like mine was, I also had indents between the rotors fron junk passing through. I like to use maximum torque from very low rpm as well so I guess that sort of heavy lugging would load the hell out of that part of the big end. Anyone got any ideas :?:

Yes I did have the same frustration with the oil pump, crazy husabergs :bounce:

590 kit would go great with a cam and 44mm throttle body 8)
 
Is the failure from the pressure on the rod when the motor fires? Seems like the wear is from the piston pushing down on the rod. Maybe just the quality of the stock rod. KTM is using Pankle rods on some of the motors but I don't think this one is. I might expect the same failure but I run a different combo Thumper Crank w/ Carrillo rod. Just tossing an idea out there.

Maybe send your photo to Carrillo and ask the technical dept what might cause that to happen. Bet they would have a few good specific reasons they could point to. Might ask if they have a replacement rod for you at the same time.
 
My Husabergfriend had an idea about bad hardeningprocess,but he had never seen anything like that and he has for sure seen lots up messed up engines.

I ordered a new oilpump today and will also install a mechanic oilmeter to confirm right oilpressure at start up.

Sorry for spamming your thread about your bike but I have an question about the Usersettingtool.When I look at your pictures showing your fuelcorrection I can see positive values,are you really sure that positive values gives more fuel?If you take a look at the factoryready maping which you can download at Husaberg/KTM homepage they all shows negative values at fuelcorrection!

I have this UST-tool but I have not so much experience yet and have not confirmed any setting with lambdameasuring.

Sorry for spamming and bad spelling :oops:
 
Thanks for the idea Chris I think I'll chase it up. I contacted Carrillo last year in regards to a rod but the lead time was excessive. Wish I had a crystal ball that could have told me I'd wait 2.5 months for a piston :lol:

I know a really out there character that might make me a rod out of pure unobtanium alloyed with depleted paranoia. :)

Hey Jas I don't mind at all :cheers: it's a good discussion which is what the site is about.

As far as experience with the ust and efi tuning goes this is my first time ! I've done a fair bit of carb tuning and only one time have I used wide and afr to tune a rotrex supercharged Yamaha rhino. I think that the maps on husaberg.com may be lean due to emissions compliance. I'm dealing now with bigger overlap and duration on my cam, so there would be greater losses into the exhaust during overlap, and hopefully a small amount of inertia supercharging and in turn better cylinder filling requiring more fuel.

I proved to myself that positive values give more fuel, when I fouled a plug last week :shock:
 

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