Just had my dealer install one... Rode a quick 20 miles today.... Why Didn't I Do This Sooner!!!! :cheers:
Mods I am happy with:
Suspension (resprung/revalved for my weight)
Rekluse (Z-Start Pro)
LHRB (except I wish I had know there was a Magura LHRB)
70 Deg. Racing subframe tank
Fan kit
Exhaust wrapping
Pirelli MT 43 and Tubliss
Motosportz steering damper (although I need it much less with new suspension)
Low fuel light
Suspension (resprung/revalved for my weight)
Rekluse (Z-Start Pro)
LHRB (except I wish I had know there was a Magura LHRB)
70 Deg. Racing subframe tank
Fan kit
Exhaust wrapping
Pirelli MT 43 and Tubliss
Motosportz steering damper (although I need it much less with new suspension)
Low fuel light
I've been interested in the Rekluse as well but confused on it's operation and benefits. Could you describe? Thx.
There are different models with different characteristics/features. There is also the Revlock brand of auto-clutches.
Rekluse probably has a better explanation of how it works on their website, but here is the gist of how my bike works with my model (Z-Start Pro):
At idle or any RPM below the engagement RPM (which you can set) the clutch is disengaged even though the bike is in gear and you do not pull in the lever (the lever can be retained, or you can do away with it altogether - you can still use the lever, but on my model the pull is *very* light).
When you increase the RPM the clutch starts to engage. Where it engages and how hard or soft is up to how you setup the clutch (I think the Revlock Dyna-Ring lets you adjust this on the fly). Once the clutch is fully engaged it stays engaged until the RPM falls below the engagement RPM. If you let off the throttle the clutch stays engaged until the RPM falls below the engagement RPM - so you still have engine compression braking on deceleration or down a hill. A lot of people think you don't, but they obviously have never ridden a bike with a Rekluse because in that respect it is just like a regular clutch.
Here is where the auto-clutches shine: if you are climbing a hill in too high a gear and you lug the engine down, the clutch will slip enough to keep the engine running. Rather than you having to moderate the clutch to keep the engine running, you moderate only the throttle and possibly the gear shift. If you come to a stop, the clutch will slip enough to keep the engine running. No more stalling. No more fanning the clutch or otherwise moderating it and the throttle at the same time. No more having the bike jump all over the place because you let out the clutch too fast or too much. You just concentrate on the bike and the throttle and let the clutch do its work.
Downsides:
No bump starting (Dyna-Ring supports bump starting).
When you let completely off the throttle at a stop, the clutch disengages, which means it can roll backwards or forwards (especially if the engine is off).
The clutch can drag (depending on how you have it setup) when in gear at idle or the engine off, making it a little harder to roll the bike backwards - such as when turning around in a tight spot.
You have to remember - in gear + engine running + throttle = forward momentum. When trying to get over something from a stop this can mean the bike moves forward when you aren't paying attention - so pay attention. But it is still easier than using the clutch lever.
Some people don't like working without a clutch lever, or the much lighter feel. Most don't miss it at all and replace the clutch lever with a LHRB - I did. Only on the street do I miss the lever - where I shift a lot more and want a smoother shift.
Rekluse probably has a better explanation of how it works on their website, but here is the gist of how my bike works with my model (Z-Start Pro):
At idle or any RPM below the engagement RPM (which you can set) the clutch is disengaged even though the bike is in gear and you do not pull in the lever (the lever can be retained, or you can do away with it altogether - you can still use the lever, but on my model the pull is *very* light).
When you increase the RPM the clutch starts to engage. Where it engages and how hard or soft is up to how you setup the clutch (I think the Revlock Dyna-Ring lets you adjust this on the fly). Once the clutch is fully engaged it stays engaged until the RPM falls below the engagement RPM. If you let off the throttle the clutch stays engaged until the RPM falls below the engagement RPM - so you still have engine compression braking on deceleration or down a hill. A lot of people think you don't, but they obviously have never ridden a bike with a Rekluse because in that respect it is just like a regular clutch.
Here is where the auto-clutches shine: if you are climbing a hill in too high a gear and you lug the engine down, the clutch will slip enough to keep the engine running. Rather than you having to moderate the clutch to keep the engine running, you moderate only the throttle and possibly the gear shift. If you come to a stop, the clutch will slip enough to keep the engine running. No more stalling. No more fanning the clutch or otherwise moderating it and the throttle at the same time. No more having the bike jump all over the place because you let out the clutch too fast or too much. You just concentrate on the bike and the throttle and let the clutch do its work.
Downsides:
No bump starting (Dyna-Ring supports bump starting).
When you let completely off the throttle at a stop, the clutch disengages, which means it can roll backwards or forwards (especially if the engine is off).
The clutch can drag (depending on how you have it setup) when in gear at idle or the engine off, making it a little harder to roll the bike backwards - such as when turning around in a tight spot.
You have to remember - in gear + engine running + throttle = forward momentum. When trying to get over something from a stop this can mean the bike moves forward when you aren't paying attention - so pay attention. But it is still easier than using the clutch lever.
Some people don't like working without a clutch lever, or the much lighter feel. Most don't miss it at all and replace the clutch lever with a LHRB - I did. Only on the street do I miss the lever - where I shift a lot more and want a smoother shift.
Many Rekluse riders say 'it's like cheating'.
Very few say they don't like it. A few people who don't give it time to get used to it (for some people it takes a few hours) say they don't like it. A few people who have never ridden one say they will never install one - IMO, those people truly don't know what they are missing.
I got used to it in a couple of hours. Most of the time I love it. Once in a while I wish I still had the clutch lever - like when I am trying to back the bike up. But overall I much prefer an auto-clutch - it just makes the bike easier to ride. When I watch a video of someone riding a really difficult section, overheating the bike, working the clutch and having the bike alternately stall or pop a wheelie - I can't help but think of how much easier that section would be with a Rekluse. Since I love to ride difficult trails and I don't compete in any way, hell I just ride damned slow, I don't need a clutch lever for any fancy maneuvers some people say they need it for.
Very few say they don't like it. A few people who don't give it time to get used to it (for some people it takes a few hours) say they don't like it. A few people who have never ridden one say they will never install one - IMO, those people truly don't know what they are missing.
I got used to it in a couple of hours. Most of the time I love it. Once in a while I wish I still had the clutch lever - like when I am trying to back the bike up. But overall I much prefer an auto-clutch - it just makes the bike easier to ride. When I watch a video of someone riding a really difficult section, overheating the bike, working the clutch and having the bike alternately stall or pop a wheelie - I can't help but think of how much easier that section would be with a Rekluse. Since I love to ride difficult trails and I don't compete in any way, hell I just ride damned slow, I don't need a clutch lever for any fancy maneuvers some people say they need it for.
Great write-up CodeMonkey. I've been eyeing the Revloc Dyna-ring. I haven't had my 'Berg in anything technical enough to warrant it yet, but I'll get there soon enough. 
Based on this write-up and the various other posts I have seen, I went ahead and ordered myself a Rekluse clutch, including the hand-operated rear brake conversion... Hope this works out! I've been doing this the old fasioned way for over 35 years now.
What I'm really thinking is how I will cope with the "Oh ****!" moment when you jab and grab the brakes suddenly to avoid something big... Not sure I will instinctively grab that left lever to activate the rear brake...
I could experience a weird combination of all these emotions, right?
:bounce: :shock: 8O :? :roll: :roll: :roll:
What I'm really thinking is how I will cope with the "Oh ****!" moment when you jab and grab the brakes suddenly to avoid something big... Not sure I will instinctively grab that left lever to activate the rear brake...
I could experience a weird combination of all these emotions, right?
:bounce: :shock: 8O
:? :roll: :roll: :roll:You get used to it. When I start out I still occasionally grab the LHRB as a clutch, but after a few minutes I treat it like a brake. The only time I think I would grab it hard would be in a panic stop on the road - the usual response on my Ducati is to grab the clutch, the front brake and the rear brake. So grabbing the rear brake isn't a bad response in a panic stop as long as you grab the front too.
On the trail I just tend to use the LHRB a lot to slow down a little - it is better than the pedal because it has more feel. I purposely put air in the line from the slave to the caliper to make it soft. When I first got the bike it was solid and the rear brake would lock up at the slightest touch. Now I can pull the LHRB almost all the way to the grip, but if I really want a lot of pressure I can also use the pedal. I think that combo works well.
Like I think I said, I recommend the Magura LHRB over the AJP unit that comes from Rekluse.
On the trail I just tend to use the LHRB a lot to slow down a little - it is better than the pedal because it has more feel. I purposely put air in the line from the slave to the caliper to make it soft. When I first got the bike it was solid and the rear brake would lock up at the slightest touch. Now I can pull the LHRB almost all the way to the grip, but if I really want a lot of pressure I can also use the pedal. I think that combo works well.
Like I think I said, I recommend the Magura LHRB over the AJP unit that comes from Rekluse.
I just ordered the LHRB but am concerned if my brain will adapt since I go back and forth between my new FE570 and my KTM 250. Both have the Rekluse but I only ordered the LHRB for the 570.
I have a rekluse on my KTM and love it.
Just put the bike in second or third gear and enjoy the trail.
For my FE570 I do not know what to do....
...Buy the Revlock or the Rekluse. :lol:
Just put the bike in second or third gear and enjoy the trail.
For my FE570 I do not know what to do....
...Buy the Revlock or the Rekluse. :lol:
Mosseltje said:
Yeah, I'm having a hard time deciding.
Rekluse z-Start Pro: $629, proven
Rekluse Trail: $399, no Husaberg model available yet?
Revloc Dyna Ring: $379, not much feedback on it, but looks great
Good info. So if you decide to retain the clutch lever can you still use it to make smoother shifts? If you don't use the clutch to shift can you backoff on the throttle enough to make a smooth shift?
Yes.Busa10 said:
The shift without the lever is just like shifting without using the lever if it is present. Go try it and you judge.
Regarding the Dyna-ring:
I´ve been trying it on a FE 390, works ok, but one small downside is:
I thought it woul be handy to have the bump-start (or better: "please don´t roll back function ") available, but:if you want the bump-start function you have to have the clutch master cylinder installed (at least somewhere on the bike - must not be on the handlebar)
It actually takes some time to screw in the adjustment knob on the master cylinder to become the bump-start function
So, I was a bit disappointed about, how long it takes to become a working bump-start.
Other: no function at all on the clutch lever - would be no problem so, if you install a LHRB, but , as I said: you need the clutch master cylinder for the bump-start function.
Otherwise grat
peter
-
I´ve been trying it on a FE 390, works ok, but one small downside is:
I thought it woul be handy to have the bump-start (or better: "please don´t roll back function ") available, but:if you want the bump-start function you have to have the clutch master cylinder installed (at least somewhere on the bike - must not be on the handlebar)
It actually takes some time to screw in the adjustment knob on the master cylinder to become the bump-start function
So, I was a bit disappointed about, how long it takes to become a working bump-start.
Other: no function at all on the clutch lever - would be no problem so, if you install a LHRB, but , as I said: you need the clutch master cylinder for the bump-start function.
Otherwise grat
peter
-
Been trying to fig out what the main differance is between them. can sombody explain please??Busa10 said:
Busa10 said:
I was told the Core EXP was geared towards motorcross & Z-Start geared towards trail riding/ performance riding.... Their website implies that as well.... I have a little over 60 miles with it & loving it... definitely has helped me in a few technical sections & I've been able to keep up better in the single track with some of my mates! i didn't do the LHRB & don't plan to ( not that theres anything wrong with that ) 8O
Busa10 said:
I still use it (old habits hard to break).. I have shifted without it as well & couldn't tell a difference.... i only have a little over 60 miles with it now so, everything with it is pretty tight.. I have noticed it's been pretty tough to find neutral while the engine is running... not an issue when engine is off... not sure if thats normal or because it still new & tight.....
The CORE EPX is new technology that uses wedges instead on steel balls. It also uses Rekluse clutch springs inside of it, where the Pro didn't have any springs. Thats why the CORE EXP retains the factory clutch feel to it.
I was thinking about selling my Rekluse Pro and switching to the CORE EXP.
I was thinking about selling my Rekluse Pro and switching to the CORE EXP.
On the new 70 deg. engines finding neutral is hard regardless of clutch apparently. For me it was almost impossible with a regular clutch, totally impossible with the Rekluse as it drags just a little. Indeed, I don't ever remember being able to find neutral with the engine running with either clutch.jgk200 said:
With the bike off you can feel the engine is in gear when you try to roll it, but it will still roll.
I have tried to bump start the bike with the Rekluse Z-start Pro but can't. I think I read somewhere that you can take the cover off and adjust it enough to get it to bump start, but then it will stay engaged period - although if you have the lever *maybe* you can get it to disengage.
Conversely, if I am rolling along at 40 MPH in gear and hold the kill switch down, then the engine will die, but come back to life as soon as I let up on the kill switch because the bike is still rolling and the engine turning over (no clutch lever to pull in on my bike) - no matter how long the engine has been off, as long as I am moving. This just proves that the Rekluse does have compression braking as long as the engine is turning over.
Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
