09/450 fe rear shock

HI Johnny,

The first problem as I see it, is that you based your spring rates without being in full riding gear. You say you are 83 kg's without gear, don't know if that is in street clothes or your birthday suit. Weigh yourself in full kit, ready to ride and see how much you weigh.

Typically you add about 9 Kg's for your gear, so that would put you at 92 kg's in gear, which is what you are riding at.

So, you are not only out out of balance as the .46N/mm fork springs are good for 85-95Kg's, but should be mated to the 76N/mm shock spring, which is also rated for 85-95kgs. So it's no surprise that you are blowing through the travel, as the 72N/mm spring is rated for 75-85kg's.

However, you put in .46kg fork springs which are equal to .45N/mm, which means you are bit light on the fork springs, if you are going to be putting in fork springs rated in Kg's instead of N/mm you need to compensate for the difference, so you need .47kg fork springs mated to a 76N/mm or 7.75kg shock spring, never heard of a 7.75 kg shock spring so you would need an 7.8 kg spring for the rear if they make that, or an 8kg which is more common.

I'm betting that with your current spring, and with the static sag set correctly, you will find that you are out of range on the rider sag. Try going up to the heavier rear spring, and see how it feels.

I agree that the bike needs to be re valved, but, without the proper springs, if you compensate for this with a valving change only you are going to end up with a harsh ride.

Other advice...........

No matter what, do not deviate fromt the 30-35mm of static sag. The book says 35mm but that would have to be adjusted for the weight range to get the rider sag EG if you set the rider sag correctly you might end up with less than 35mm of static sag.

The pds system is extremely sensitive to ride height adjustments, and the static sag must be maintained between 30-35mm's, if you cannot get the correct rider sag within this static sag range then you need a different spring. I have found that 33mm's is the magic number. Once this is set it will work anywhere.

Also, don't try and go outside of the manual's clicker adjustment range. Trying to do so will only result in poor performance at one end of the spectrum. A revalve is in order if you are not satisfied with the suspension action. My bike did the exact same thing as yours does in the rear, it would just blow through the final inches of travel, after feeling like it was firming up, aka becoming harsh, and then you'd hit something big and bang it would just blow through.

Any comments on #progressive rate springs"? I was talked into a 7.0-9.0 kg but it was still to soft and ended up with a 7.5-9.5. 46Nm in the front and much better, but I have never riddin a properly suspended bike in my life( so I am not sure just what type of feel I am looking for) but am determined that the Berg is going to be the one.The Berg is much better that my previous 15 or so bikes but I have always just went with a" gas and go" mentality with no real time spent setting up a suspension.235lbs suited up and ready to go.I was wondering if the stock dampening can work with that rear spring?2010 fe390

flyinbryan said:

Any comments on #progressive rate springs"? I was talked into a 7.0-9.0 kg but it was still to soft and ended up with a 7.5-9.5. 46Nm in the front and much better, but I have never riddin a properly suspended bike in my life( so I am not sure just what type of feel I am looking for) but am determined that the Berg is going to be the one.The Berg is much better that my previous 15 or so bikes but I have always just went with a" gas and go" mentality with no real time spent setting up a suspension.235lbs suited up and ready to go.I was wondering if the stock dampening can work with that rear spring?2010 fe390

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Hi Bryan,

I am starting a suspension service, and would like to help you out if I can. Haven't decided on a name yet, but, my service will be of a limited nature as I am going to be selective of my clients. This thread, is just one of many that I have read and participated in over the years here at the UHE and I have now decided to do something about it.

PM your number and I will give you a call and perhaps we can get you set up. You are right about the Berg being the one, when set up properly, they are unbelievable.

Dale

Thanx Dale!!! You are truly "the Man"

johny said:

getting a little closer to final settings, but just have a couple more questions, when i push i'm begining to get pump up in my hands, and the bike is under steering and even washing out at slow speeds on lose stuff, any advice would be appreciated
regards johny

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What is your rear static and rider sag set at?

How many turns in are you on the fork pre load caps?

Clicker settings, front and rear, low speed compression, rebound, and high speed on the rear?

johny said:

now that you've replied.....I'm sure i'll get it working so here goes, 35 static 98mm race sag 76 spring and i have no preload on the front forks, i honestly think two things...the rear spring is still to soft i should go to an 80 or just get the rear revalved, the bike is very close,it's just when i push that it's starting to make me try to hard instead of riding fluidly i begin to tighten up in my hands, i'm super fit but obviously, when it comes to dailing in my suspension i'm useless lol anyway i'm looking forward to your input daleo and goodluck with your suspension adventure i'm sure you'll do very well
johny
ps i'll go and get the clicker settings now
fork rebound turned all they way in then 29 out comp 23 out
shock rebound 21 out comp 9 out hs comp 2.5 turns in

ive had your old original settings which were good fork rebound 20 out comp 20 out
shock comp 15 out rebound 18 out 1.5 turns of hs comp
i aways move away from whats right!!! story of my life

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Your sag numbers look good, judging by the numbers your posting I don't think you need a stiffer spring. You might try going to 33mm's of static, I think that might be one turn more pre load, give that a try.

I am confused about your HS setting, this adjustment should be between 1-2 turns out from full clock wise, just as the other clickers are measured from full in to how many turns out.

Your low speed compression on the shock is way out of range, return to between 12-18.

You've got too much rebound damping on the shock, go to between 22-26 out, at 21 out the rear is going to tend to start to pack.

Shock: In short, you have reduced the total oil flow outside of the valve stack parameters by closing off the clicker orifices. Even though you adjust shock rebound, it has an effect on total oil flow, therefore it also has some effect on compression and visa versa.

Forks:
Set the pre load on the forks at two turns in from full out, this will put you in the middle of the range of 0-4 turns in.

At 29 clicks out on the rebound I'm not surprised that you are having pushing or under steering problems return to 18-22 out.

While your are in range with 23 out on the fork compression damping, albeit on the lower side of damping, you are allowing the fork to dive a bit more, especially with no pre load on the fork pre load adjusters, and then with that small amount of rebound the fork is trying to extend too quickly, and is not following the ground and is trying to skid across the ground in it's attempt to return to full travel. Usually, if the front end is skipping or skidding on turns one would add 2 clicks of rebound damping to slow the front end down a bit to give it bit more time to bite.

My general advise is to return to standard settings on all clickers, Edit: Keep your pre load the rear the way it is now, go to two turns in on the fork spring pre load and go test. Keep good notes.


Edit: FYI I run a progressive spring
Try going to 33mm's of static sag which should net you about 95mm's of rider sag which is what I run, and this will put more weight bias towards the front and should help improve front end bite. That will put you in the middle of the range of 30-35mm's. Do not exceed 35mm's of static sag!! If you go to an 8.0nm spring your static sag will increase. Test and take notes.

Then make one change at a time on the clickers noting the differences in performance to adjust what you feel needs adjusting.

If after adding a couple of clicks of rebound to the front, you find it is still pushing, return to your standard rebound clicker setting, raise the fork tubes 5mm's and test.

IMHO this is the best you are going to get with out a re valve. Also, stay within the clicker range listed in the manual, pretty much anything outside of that and you will be chasing your tail.

Last comment, when you test, pick out a good loop and ride it for a while noting in your mind how the bike is acting. Then make a change, if necessary, and ride the same amount that you did before, keeping mental notes and then putting them to paper. This "noting" will help you analyze things later. Don't be one of these people that I have seen who carries a screw driver in their boot and stops every half mile and makes an adjustment. A good suspension set up is always a good compromise for the various conditions that you ride in, and you should set your bike up for the conditions that you ride in the majority of the time. By riding the bike for a while you allow you and your body to adjust to the new setting.

Dale

DaleEO said:

Go to 33mm's of static sag which should net you about 95mm's of rider sag which is what I run. That will put you in the middle of the range of 30-35mm's.
Dale

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This is interesting..... You are running 95mm of rider sag, Factory Connection has people running 120, so does Javier (if I remember right). I am running about 105 and so are others.

For a bike that is as sensitive as this with setup. That is a crazy wide spread.

Thanks for your input Mudd, I have edited my previous post.

I forgot to mention that I run a progressive spring. I'm sure that has something to do with it. The only PDS bike I have with a straight rate is my 2001 FE501, and that is the right spring for that bike.

So I will edit my previous post by saying only that 30-35mm of static is what is most important, no matter what spring you have. And that right around 95-100mm's of rider sag is about right for rider sag.

All I can tell you is that everyone who has ridden my bikes are amazed at how well they work. One also has to remember that this is a Husaberg, not a KTM, well except for the addition of the two strokes. The Chassis are different, so what works for a KTM is not going to be the best set up for a Husaberg.

I know Factory connection by name, and they do a lot of work, so does pro circuit, RG3, Enzo (if you happen to read this Enzo, I hope you are recovering well man!!), as well as many others. And to be quite honest, I really don't care what they are running.

I don't know anything about Javier except his name, and the fact that he shows up at the races and has helped a lot of people out that have blown shocks and fork seals and saves their weekend. Including my friend Cheeseberger who had very nice things to say about him. Again, I really don't care what their set up is.

I know that my set up works. I'm not in this for the money, I'm in this for the sport and getting the most out of a great bike for as many as possible. I haven't got all my ducks lined up just yet, but, I am looking for a select group of people to offer my suspension service to. And am open, on a limited basis, for business.

All I'm doing here with my suggestions is to get people with stock set ups the best possible set up they can get with out a re valve, and or re spring. Take it or leave it, it's up to you.

DaleEO said:

Thanks for your input Mudd, I have edited my previous post.

I know Factory connection by name, and they do a lot of work, so does pro circuit, RG3, Enzo (if you happen to read this Enzo, I hope you are recovering well man!!), as well as many others. And to be quite honest, I really don't care what they are running.

I don't know anything about Javier except his name, and the fact that he shows up at the races and has helped a lot of people out that have blown shocks and fork seals and saves their weekend. Including my friend Cheeseberger who had very nice things to say about him. Again, I really don't care what their set up is.

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It was just an observation......... :?

mud400 said:

DaleEO said:

Thanks for your input Mudd, I have edited my previous post.

I know Factory connection by name, and they do a lot of work, so does pro circuit, RG3, Enzo (if you happen to read this Enzo, I hope you are recovering well man!!), as well as many others. And to be quite honest, I really don't care what they are running.

I don't know anything about Javier except his name, and the fact that he shows up at the races and has helped a lot of people out that have blown shocks and fork seals and saves their weekend. Including my friend Cheeseberger who had very nice things to say about him. Again, I really don't care what their set up is.

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It was just an observation......... :?

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My apologies, guess that came across a bit harsh.

Dale

DaleEO said:

mud400 said:

DaleEO said:

Thanks for your input Mudd, I have edited my previous post.

I know Factory connection by name, and they do a lot of work, so does pro circuit, RG3, Enzo (if you happen to read this Enzo, I hope you are recovering well man!!), as well as many others. And to be quite honest, I really don't care what they are running.

I don't know anything about Javier except his name, and the fact that he shows up at the races and has helped a lot of people out that have blown shocks and fork seals and saves their weekend. Including my friend Cheeseberger who had very nice things to say about him. Again, I really don't care what their set up is.

Click to expand...

It was just an observation......... :?

Click to expand...

My apologies, guess that came across a bit harsh.

Dale

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No problem. I just wanted to be clear I was only making an observation. Not expressing an opinion.