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08 fork shim stacks

Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
Apologies if the following has been posted somewhere before

Thought it may be of use/ interest to someone.

2008 650FE

Base valve
24x0.1
24x0.1
14x0.1
24x0.1
24x0.1
24x0.1
24x0.1
24x0.1
24x0.1
24x0.1
24x0.1
22x0.1
22x0.1
20x0.1
18x0.1
16x0.1
14x0.1
8.5x0.3
18x0.25

Mid valve: Float is 1.8mm

24x0.1
24x0.1
24x0.1
24x0.1
22x0.1
20x0.1
18x0.1

Rebound:

24x0.1 D
24x0.1 D
24x0.1 D
24x0.1 D
12x0.1
20x0.1
18x0.1
16x0.1
8.5x0.3
8.5x0.3
16x0.25

Top out spring is 32mm long wire is approx 2.55mm diam and spring OD is 19mm

Oil height measured on disassembly 120mm

Cheers

Bushy
 
i think everyone is bemused as to why they run so many LS 24s on the compression stack?

the float on a husey is 1.8mm you reckon yet it's down to 0.5mm on some katoom MX machines i believe?

if you ask me, instead of 8 x 24s i would drop that to 3.

aat some point i would have the post of the MV machined so that you can add spacers to get back to 1.8 or keep it down near 1.0mm.

i note the 8.5mm pivot shim which on mine is 9.5mm. this softens the whole stack snd thus why perhaps you should remove 4 but with my 9.5 i would remove 5/8.

don't know whether you wanted this but either way - thanks for sharing it!

regards

Taffy
 
Re: RE: 08 fork shim stacks

Taffy said:
i think everyone is bemused as to why they run so many LS 24s on the compression stack?

the float on a husey is 1.8mm you reckon yet it's down to 0.5mm on some katoom MX machines i believe?

if you ask me, instead of 8 x 24s i would drop that to 3.

aat some point i would have the post of the MV machined so that you can add spacers to get back to 1.8 or keep it down near 1.0mm.

i note the 8.5mm pivot shim which on mine is 9.5mm. this softens the whole stack snd thus why perhaps you should remove 4 but with my 9.5 i would remove 5/8.

don't know whether you wanted this but either way - thanks for sharing it!

regards

Taffy

The 12mm cartridge that WP went to (big improvement) in '07 is why they have all those 24mm LS shims in there.

I am sure the compression damping can be improved to suit individual tastes, but if you have been able to ride an '07 or '08 Husaberg, the forks with the new 12mm cartridge are much better than the old ones and have potential to be even better.
 
RE: Re: RE: 08 fork shim stacks

Thanks Taffy,

while in there I Took out 5 of the lot of 8 24s and both 22s
changed float to 1.5mm and rounded the seating area of the tap slightly more than stock, it looked ok stock (similar to the zp3 style in doc) but I figured the shims won't fatigue in one spot as easily with a bit of help. Also de-burred and refaced the "valve" bodies.
Left the mid valve stacks alone.
put in motul factory line oil 2.5W (about 16 centistrokes) to height of 130mm. I think stock WP fluid is about 22 centistrokes.

the front rides higher than before allowing me to run the spring preload adjusters backed all the way out instead of all the way in.
all this resulted in far less harshness in the initial part of the stroke, less feedback through the bars over chop and less bottoming on braking bumps. it does bottom slightly more on big flat jump landings and the rebound adjusters needed to be wound in to 10 clicks from full in. this also stiffened the midvalve on compression and to compensate the base valve adjuster had to be wound out to 28. This is for a very bumpy whooped out rutted sand test track where the average speed is 40km/hr.

so was a big improvement but not ideal. next time I will stiffen the rebound stack or use heavier oil.

The forks in stock trim were pretty good and i would have left them as they were but I'm running a 150-90 teraflex on the rear which jacks the rear of the bike about 20mm and wheighs nearly 10 Kg. this tyre turned the bike into a pogo stick under 40 km/hr. It is by far the best tyre I've used for beach racing and dunes and is fine at high speed, not so good on slower tracks when combined with steep stearing angle, on a 98 Cr500 it improved the geometry for slow tracks. its meant for a 3.5 inch rim and will stay seated with zero pressure, 3.5 pounds is ok, more than that and its a very harsh ride.

Thanks to everyone who put info into the big fork tuning thread, it provides a good starting point and saves some time.

too many 24s? its nice to have some spare though they could put them in a plastic bag

Hope this helps someone by way of a tale of misadventure and mixed fortunes!

Cheers
Bushy
 
Re: RE: 08 fork shim stacks

Taffy said:
i think everyone is bemused as to why they run so many LS 24s on the compression stack?
<snip>if you ask me, instead of 8 x 24s i would drop that to 3.

I went from 6 to 3 in the base valve on my 08 200, and it's pretty much perfect, but it's a 50lb lighter bike. i'd try 4-5 first and see how that worked on a heavy 4-stroke. that's assuming I didn't like it stock. The 08 300 I rode (same valving as my bike I think) felt pretty good stock, probably due to the extra 15 or so lbs of blubber on the bike.
 
Found out something that may be useful: I'm not a suspension tuner or any kind or expert and stumbled on this while testing BV stacks so switch on your internet relevance and BS filters.

My stacks are somewhat irrelevant because everyone has different parameters to work with and different conditions tastes, body weight, speeds, oil etc. If you want to try something better than my first “improvementâ€Â

of stock berg 12mm rod forks the following may help.

21.5cst @40 deg 44 springs w 4mm preload.

The WP BV can be described as a 3-stage stack wether or not it behaves as such is for my practical purposes academic, a 3 stage philosophy was the only way I could get mid speed plushness without high speed cavitation:

I tried a lot of mad BV stacks my goal was to somehow get what I wanted with all original 10x24s in there the logic being that stiffer is better to prevent cavitation and the WP boys may have been onto something.

Started adding 24s after the splitter and trying to separate the stages more and letting the splitter walk up and down. Ended up with

7x24
15
15
3x24
22
20
18
16
15
14
8.5x0.3
16x0.25

the 15s are KYB so are 0.11thick

Moved the splitters up and down and went from 1 splitter to 2 and all combinations 3 stage and 2 stages. Basically either low speed or mid speed or both were too harsh with all the 24 in. So happy at least to find a limit I just needed to stiffen HS to get rid of cavitation.

5x24
15
24
22
20
18
16
24
15x0.11
15x0.1
24
14
14
12
etc

no good, more shims under the splitter made mid speed still too harsh even with no 24s under the splitter and still cavitation on HS.

So I put 2 24s under the 8.5 pivot HS now too harsh but no HS cavitation actually I was packing with HS bumps. I put another 2 in to verify.. ouch.

So that confirmed that a HS hit will take all the 24s to the limiting shim and bend them around it. But how much HS do I need and how to smooth the transition?


24
24
24
24
24
15x0.11
24
22
20
18
16
15x0.11
15x0.1
14
14
8.5x 0.3 (should be 9 or 10 and loose some 15 diam shims I think)
16x 0.25
24
24
24


this was pretty good but too harsh in transition from Mid to high speed

So from trial and error and bending the stack with my fingers here’s an explanation. Might be way off.

I’ll call the 5 face shims low speed, that’s simple. Here’s the sneaky bit; everything down to the 8.5x0.3 is mid speed. When the 2 15s hit the 16x0.25 transition to high speed starts. When all the main 6 24s hit the 16 x 0.25 everything after that’s high speed and they start to engage the remaining sneaky 3x24s.

So the stock stack with 10x24 shims has a lot of high-speed damping but it’s the evil 24s doing the HS damping after they hit the 16 x 0.25. I think the 8.5 pivot and the piddly 2 face shims in the stock stack are an after attempt to soften the low and mid speed damping without loosing the high speed damping needed to stop cavitation at high speed. except that they got the low speed too soft to get any sub resonance plushness or sweet spot and the mid is still too harsh.

I've ended up with this stack
It is is probably neither right or wrong and a little bit of both but I like it

24
24
24
24
24
15x0.11
24
22
20
18
16
15x0.11
15
14
14
8.5x0.3
no limit shim
24
24
24 ( add or remove 24s to tune High speed damping independant of mid and low)
24
24
22
12 wear protector or 13, 14 or 15x0.3 limiter to tune Mid to High speed transition suppleness.
BV

Might be very wrong but feels like progress so perhaps the logic is working in some twisted way or another. This pudding tastes good ....

If I wrote down everything i did over the last 1200 Km of testing it would take about 18 pages or is it 19 now? mostly I was going around in circles because my rebound wouldn't work when the forks were cavitating. they cavitated from the start in stock trim... maybe its intentional? there is surely no faster way to get your wheel back on the ground than to induce cavitation but then its out of control.

Smorgasbord has tried to help me very diplomatically and has given lots of great ideas and encouragement but im so thick and slow with hydraulics that Its only just sunk in about cavitation, when , why it occours and how it effects fork action. I'm using a 12mm MV backer inspired by his drawings and ideas too but thats for another thread.

now the blasted rebound is actually working I can't get rid of HS packing. viscious circles we walk with these cavitating WP spaghettie utensils. the experts at wp must have designed the rebound with their fork partially cavitating on hs hits.

the rebound stack on my forks seems like a crude 3 stage stack too. LS is the face shims, everything else is MS and the teeny corners of the deltas that stick out past the 16x0.25 limiter are HS. I went on the same path as with the BV and tried to remove 15, 12, 14 etc

the HS actually got stiffer with these removed becasue the deltas had less room to move before hitting the limiter. so I bent the limiter away from the deltas in 3 spots a good 2mm or so.

0.16 dish preload on MV rebound face

24d
24d
15
20
18
16
12
2x8.5x0.3
2mm gap at edge to the 16x0.25 bent limiter

its nearly soft enough on HS rebound, not quite. nearly there by crikeys!! could go to lighter oil but prefer to iron out problems properly before using a masking agent.

There are pictures of the 12mm radius backers, how to remove the BV with the bike on its side and others to show how to remove the MV with the forks and oil still in the bike in my gallery. There is a link to a video of that same procedure as well as a lot of useful information in the Penske shock document and various select posts in the big fork tuning thread. Some posts are more diplomatic than others, some are quite rude, the important thing is to enjoy the journey to wherever it is that you want to go, others can help but it’s your prerogative to be happy along the way. As smorgasbord says: you’re the boss!

I'm just learning to learn as I go? sincerly hope this helps someone get where they want to be with their forks.

regards
 
superb work bushy!

it's good to have many ideas here and gradually we go forward in a general direction. it may not speed up the finish line but it will give a sprint start!

i'm a little suprised that you didn't try 120mm air gap? i PM'd you back o say look at early posts and how when the oil level went up the rebound worked better?

cavitation or lack of oil?

regards

Taffy
 
Yes, superb!,
not only am I mentioned in the post :) :) :), but this must be the highest density post there is on forks on this forum ever, just look at how many miles of tests that are behind it and there were tests almost every day. I have had the undeserved privilege of following the progress for a good many of the 19(?) pages and there were quite a few revelations on the way. Not that this in any way is the end of it.
The bs filter will not have to work very hard with bushmechanics post as with most others, much of it is very well tested indeed and it is describing how things have progressed and while a lot of truth lies in it its very humble and not pretending to be The Ultimate Truth. But its definitely a world closer to it than the stock forks non the less.

Now, if you did not do it before, switch it on now because i will now switch on rambling mode and ramble endlessly about cavitation, the root of all evil.
cavitation or lack of oil?
Same thing. The air gap (no matter the height) pressure is useless in the beginning of the compression stroke to suppress cavitation, only with a somewhat compressed fork the air pressure is built up to the degree where it can help a little against cavitation, and even then only so much. And if it has already begun to cavitate before that it will be difficult to catch up and refill the oil debt already created in the beginning of the stroke. Not that it would be impossible.

i'm a little surprised that you didn't try 120mm air gap
The very cool thing is that after having roughly sorted 1st stage and 2nd stage in the bv he can separately tune the bv hs using the flexy bv limiter stack (3rd stage) to suppress a lot of the cavitation and still not be overly harsh.

We'll have to see where this adventure will eventually end.

With much of the cavitation created during compression suppressed, the rebound damping suddenly comes alive!

The bending of the rebound stack limiter was an unusually cheeky mod. :D I really like it!

Regards
 
Hi Taffy,

knew I would leave something out. so thats what you meant in that pm, you actually wrote "get your stack back up" which is good advice in itself and I'm happy its you telling me not the missus ! I did try putting more oil in earlier on in the piece, 120mm, 115, and 110mm, at the time it helped stop blowing through the stroke on mid speed hits which may have been caviation and although it may have also helped with rebound I didn't notice probably because my BV at the time was too soft.

I'm using 120mm now which seems good though I might put more or less in soon . the new forks have more volume in the legs, both air and oil so a 120mm height in my fork may well only be like 130 or 140 in the older forks. stock level on the new forks is supposed to be 115mm I think.

It took roughly 650ml of oil to get 120mm height.

Regards
 
it used to take about 490cc to do each leg but now it's about 530-550cc. i've gone from 155mm air gap to 115mm. i don't suffer any cavitation at all at present and i can't be sure what it feels like-maybe one of you two can tell me so that i can say if i've had it. this is the sound or feel smorgy ok!!!!!!

i've always run a softer BV since i started i think. so not sure whether you feel that i have too little pressure in the cartridge as lew says?

surely it's the relationship of the BV to MV that matters? they can both be soft or hard as long as they remain relatively the same strength ratio to one and other?

also, i'm working higher in the stroke than some others so what does that say? i said a few months ago that i thought my forks were better than cypher's and gruntenberg's on our sojourn to thee isle of man. essentially my seat height is up about 1"+ on theirs? i run heavier springs. oddly enough the sags differ little between each spring size on the rear but are lot on the front. i have changed up three spring sizes on the front (to 44, 46 and now 48) and used 5 of the 6 i went up on the rear. PDS 0 ,- ,2 ,3 ,4 ,8.

this comes into it somewhere?????????

having the 18cm mod i think helped, then there are the drilled bottoming cones and ther taller top-out springs, the minimum preload, more oil and less float. all this before you mention shim stacks! it makes the fork more "honest" when this stuff is done. when a fork won't go within 50mm of bottoming you can get all kinds of misreadings as to why. BCs? or too much oil? springs too heavy? and finally: the shimming!

i'm glad that i did all these mods and now i'm in the shimstack only stuff and indeed after recent tests i'm in the BV zone now!

i can't wait to get my engine back together so i can have a go at all this.....

regards

Taffy
 
Bushy,

This is great stuff. I made a decision some years ago that if I was ever to figure out shimstacks after having a few goes at it myself with marginal success that I would need to dedicate much time to it and decided to prioritise other projects instead.

The old saying goes that you get out of things what you put in, and you are putting in!

FYI OTTMH my 07 oil height is 90 mm.

Great work
Steve
 
maybe one of you two can tell me so that i can say if i've had it. this is the sound or feel smorgy ok!!!!!!

Taffy remember I'm no expert and most of this you will understand allready I'm including a bit extra information for others who may not. Smorgasboard has explained the cavitation and possible BC bleed function in helping to reduce cavitation in your big fork thread. even after reading that thread a number of times I did not understand so it might help someone to hear a different and perhaps more simple explanation that does not have to be filtered out from 18 pages of high tech arguments.

Cavitation feels harsh so you immediately think oh righto that area needs softening, when actually it should be stiffened on the BV. thats simple if you go soft enough on the first stage with enough bleed some lower bleed/shim resonance may come into play and mask cavitation as stiffer springs and drilled bcs may also do. I'm not saying your forks are all wrong and or cavitating I'm on the wrong side of the planet to make any judgements its just a thought that some of the mods may be masking cavitation to some extent. :) :D fixing cavitation with the stacks or masking it with other parameters may be the same thing. who knows which path results in a better fork?

It seems that it’s possible to partially fix cavitation and not be aware that it is in fact still occurring meaning that although harshness is reduced or near missing, rebound is still not functioning properly and the fork is more mushy on compression to rebound transition than without cavitation. So instead of going soft on the BV it might be an idea just an idea! :) :) to start with far too much damping on the BV a really soft MV and reduce the BV from there so at least you have a fair idea cavitation is gone. Thats my next angle anyway, you're the boss!!! and very happy with your forks too it seems :wink: it may not result in a better fork to go that way for you with your parameters but it might with mine and thats all I know at present.

I had trouble working out what this cavitation caper was all about, so I put in a really soft BV like Taffys but in my 12mm rod forks thats quivalent to about 1/2 as stiff has his, wound the Compression clicker right out and put a really stiff MV in with 0.7mm float, just an experiment that showed what extreme cavitation is like. the MV face shim was really badly cupped after a quick ride.

My bike makes a series of creaking clicks from the forks moving in the triple clamps, same sound as when you hold the front wheel beetween your legs and move the handlebars side to side or do a violent stoppie over some small bumps. it makes this noise even when I can't feel any harshness through the bars but the noise goes away when the BV is stiffened more and then the rebound starts to work better and everything is a little bit smoother yet again.. thats just my bike though..... on extreme cavitation I can hear a noise like hydraulics with air in them on an old machine thats not been used for a while.

Getting someone to video the bike over the type of bumps that were a problem and playing it back slowly was the only way I could tell if I had severe HS cavitation or packing.

I find it useful to think of oil flow in volume and displacement rather than pressure differentials

the cavitation suposedly occours on the compression stroke as the too soft BV lets out more oil from the cartridge than the incomming rod displaces.

this itself is not harsh provided the fork does not blow through the stroke and slam into the BC.

The harsh bit happens when the wheel starts to move away from the bike, the rebound stack is now in a void of air or vapour.. whatever.... say a 50mm long portion of the cartridge without oil in it on the upper or rebound side of the MV piston so it (the piston)offers no resistance to wheel movement (away from the bike) and pushed by the springs it violently slams its way through the void in the cartridge and into the oil.


thats why a bleed hole in the BC may help stop cavitation because it can let oil into the cartridge on the same side of the MV piston that is pulling a void. ideally the bc hole should not be needed at all but during a cavitation event the BC bleed can help whereas a bleed hole in the BV just lets more oil out from the WRONG side of the MV piston making cavitation worse. Even if the BC bleed does not let oil into the cartridge during cavitation it may prevent it occouring at all because it allows you to close the BV clicker a bit and further raise cartridge pressure.

In a partially cavitating fork you may not notice any harshness at all but the smoothness that results from going even stiffer on the bv is very nice. I think its because partial cavitation may induce bubbles making everything the MV tries to do on transition to and from both rebound and compression, very mushy in comparison.

with every reduction in cavitation, both partial and extreeme, rebound becomes more effective, just one indicator for unbelievers in cavitation that strange forces are at work. note my first attempt above, where I pulled shims from the BV and lowered float on the MV thereby making cavitation worse says I need more rebound than the stock stack, and in a later post after reducing cavitation I have too much HS rebound with the stock stack.

edit1: the sudden movement of the piston slamming through the "void" on rebound may then induce partial cavitation on the compression side of the MV piston which would then be felt as harsh on compression. edit2 playing with the BC bleed made me realise that refil problems or cavitation on rebound are just as big a problem as cavitation on compression. crossing a 1 bike tyre wide 200mm deep rut at 90 deg at high speed shows this up as a harsh thump as the wheel hits the other side. as opposed to hitting a small bump on flat ground where caviatation on rebound is not induced. end edits

I wasted the first 1000km on my bike waiting for the forks to break in…they never did, they always sucked because they were trying to suck (cavitation). Should have just got into it after 500Km or so.

regards
 
maybe one of you two can tell me so that i can say if i've had it. this is the sound or feel smorgy ok!!!!!!
??? It is in your own long fork tuning for enduros thread...
Ithink that bushy explains it well, you did have rebound problems, didn't you?
I think that bushy explains it better than I do. I never heard the sounds, it was just felt in the handlebar and as general harshness. Loss of rebound damping when riding fast on rough ground, very punishing, that was so unpleasant it kept the speed down a lot. The forks cavitated with the stock fork and quite badly too. It must have been deliberate or some owner before me used too heavy oil in it. It got better with proper 21 cSt fork oil but the forks remained terrible until it got sorted.

Smorgasbord said:
Taffy,
finding out for myself
Agreed, that's the best way.
[quote:10tadp3z]learning the whole picture
Will we ever?
then going for the right answer
Who can say no to that?

BTW, as said by Groucho Marx:" I have my principles and if you don't like it I have others."



funnily enopugh it#s not the shims that are interesting me but the float gap.....
MV float?

Can you absorb this mad BV stack?:
24, 12, 24, 24, 24, 14, 24, 22, 20, 18, 15, 11, [email protected]
It has a splitter shim for your flexing bleedshim facing the piston, it has a fair 1st stage to provide enough damping and it has a 2nd stage to catch you when you hit the ground hard. Just an idea, you are the boss, as always. I have never tried anything like it if you wonder.

gave the heels of my hands a thump
Cavitation can be felt like an unexplained thump or someone knocking on your handlebar with a plastic hammer. Especially during drop rebound (high speed). It removes rebound damping during the first part of the rebound. If it is severe you get it at compression too. You have to look for it or it can go undetected, but gives a general harsh feeling that is hard to explain. What really surprised me when experimenting with my fork was that it got less harsh when more shims than oem were used, it even felt smooth. If your BV is too weak or the MV is too hard in ANY speed range you will have cavitaton.

Regards[/quote:10tadp3z]
 
OK quick update before I forget;

I put the stock MV back in to test some stacks from Ktalk The ride height and resitance to dive from the stock MV at 1.8mm float is a bit on the soft low and slow rider side of the spectrum. 1.5mm float is safer. if using 1.8mm float the BV needs to be stiffened further, IF thats what you want.

the ktm 300exc stacks from Ktalk do not work in my bike with the stock large float MV. the one with 2 pivots and no real backing support is dangerously soft on big hits. its very good until a big hit though and inspires false confidence. just my 2 cents worth.

the other stacks are ok on big hits but the first stage is too soft to find the sweet spot. and the big hits are very harsh. none of the stacks help with cavitation. again just my 40 cents worth

to update what I found to be the best for me using the stock MV with float reduced to 1.5mm, i ended up with.

my stack listed above changed to:

24
24
24
24
24
15x0.11
22
20
18
16
15x0.11
15
14
14
10x0.25
no limit shim
24
24
24
24
24
12 wear protector or 13, 14 or 15x0.3 limiter to tune Mid to High speed transition suppleness.
BV

the 12 wear protector was good for a soft forgiving feel no harsh bottoming more of a mushy progression. I prefer the 14x0.25.

I didn't test it but i suspect that if someone is reading this looking for free info, they won't have any extra shims in that case a good starter would be:

24
24
24
24
24
14
22
20
18
16
14
8.5x0.3
no limit shim
24
24
24
24
24
BV or 12 wear protector.

if the MV is left stock float then some of the bottom 24s could go on top.

your the boss remember the Internet filters, I'm no expert etc etc

do hope this helps someone though.

regards

Bushie

edit: if small rocks and chop are a problem could try finding a sweet spot as an alternative to mucking up the stack and having a piddly 1 or 2 face shims

the stiffer first stage stacks with more than 3 face shims had a "sweet spot" on my bike. starting with the BV clickers wound full in, ride a nasty section, wind out 1 click, (only one at a time) ride the section again. should get progressively sweeter up to a point then suddenly one click further out and its all harsh again. with this sweet spot working it was not nescesarry to have a piddly litle first stage for the rocks. 5 face shims was good. less than 3 face shims and I couldn't find the sweet spot or get rid of the initial wp harshness.
 
"thats why a bleed hole in the BC will help stop cavitation because it can let oil into the cartridge on the same side of the MV piston that is pulling a void."

In reply to the above quote by Bushmechanic (not sure what happened to the usual way of quoting posts).

This bleed will expel oil on compression and rebound. It will not suck oil in at all. The chamber above the mid valve is always under positive pressure when the fork is in motion. You could perhaps set up an extreme fork with crazy valving to over come this, but you would not have reason to do so or like the results. Within the normal valving parameters this chamber is always in positive pressure.
 
This bleed will expel oil on compression and rebound. It will not suck oil in at all. The chamber above the mid valve is always under positive pressure when the fork is in motion. You could perhaps set up an extreme fork with crazy valving to over come this, but you would not have reason to do so or like the results. Within the normal valving parameters this chamber is always in positive pressure.

you may be right. I don't want to argue or debate the pressures and flow of oil. I have not seen inside the forks when in motion or measured the pressures. know anyone who has been in there? an oil scuba diving ant perhaps?

if you are a person who needs to think of things in pressure diferentials then it may help to read the following page and discuss theory with the authors there.

http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... &start=225

quite honestly I do not care what the oil does as long as my forks are good.

The BC bleed does reduce cavitation on compression even without closing the bv clicker. I have tested this. if it does not let oil in then how is cavitation reduced?

I believe i wrote "can" not does let oil back in.

no hole, no oil comes in, with a hole, oil can come in.

more than that I cannot say for sure, who can........

care to try a BC bleed and test for yourself?

regards

Bushie.
 
You get no debate or argument from me bushie I never said it wouldn't work and sorry but I don't have time to follow all the posts here although I wish I did because I admire people like you for trying these things from a quick skim. See I'm a trier who likes to find out these things for myself too rather than follow many who tell you it won't work from the comfort of their computer chair. And I know that many have the wrong beliefs about pressure flows inside an open cartridge fork and I've gone blue in the face trying to convince them otherwise in the past and just can't be bothered.
You might find it a little hard to feel with a 1.5mm hole but as you come down in size try this. With the cartridge in your hand thread the base valve with the piston and the clickers shut into the cartridge. With your mid valve built and piston fitted in the cartridge place your thumb over the top of the cartridge rod (this may not be needed with the rebound needle in place but just trying to eliminate leaks) and place the hole of your chosen size near your face. Compress the damper rod quickly (without slamming the two pistons togeather).
Then do the same thing with pulling the rod out quickly. Again you might not feel it with the 1.5mm hole, but as you come down in size the :idea: will be lit. You ask how is cavitation reduced if it does not let oil in? Think about when you are experiencing what you believe is cavitation and then how this hole maybe reducing it once you have done the above test.
Do I care to try it? Not much I haven't tried.
:wink:
Keep testing for yourself, not copying others and reposting what you have read, its always a good thing. Off to do some more myself today :)
 
Hi Danger,

no debates awesome! I like that. exchange of ideas and actual testing results is far more enjoyable and useful than orange armchair negativity.

I have done your test, I did it when I first put the hole in. with air in the cartridge it comes out all the time as you say. or did I miss the point on that?

but with oil in the cartridge and surrounding it I am not physically strong enough to replicate the forces at work in my bike while riding it.

I test 3-4 days /week tipically 1 hour working on bike 2-3 hours riding. not much I haven't tried either :wink: :wink: bet I haven't tried the same things as you though. I'm open to sugestions from anyone, send a pm i'l keep results confidential if you like.

when you tried it what was the major disadvantage ? there is a very big one.

the other disadvantage; loss of rebound, is not curing what I believe to be cavitation, that makes what I believe to be cavitiation worse. or did I miss your point again?

if it was as simple as nailing down the rebound stack I'd have been happy months ago.

as for rewriting posts, yeah I know its a rewrite but thats whole the point really, I didn't understand the original til I wrote my version. even the guy who wrote the original said he understands his own concept better now and I'm a bit slow and thought it might help others. not invite critisism

thanks for taking some interest.

the new showas are real nice eh?

regards

Bushie
 

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