08 FE550 headlight wiring

I have an 08 FE550 that I'm racing in the Vegas To Reno race on August 19th. We're entered in the open expert class so we've got a really early start position and aren't likely to need a headlight in the later stages of the race. However, in case something goes wrong and we're running waaaay behind schedule, there's a chance that we'll need the headlight. The stock headlight seems to be pretty good and when I wired up a dual sport conversion for my brother's 06 550, I noticed that it has low and high beams. My questions are as follows, would there be any detrimental effects to having both the high and low beam filaments running at the same time? Is this likely to melt the light housing or the lense? Will the stator have enough wattage to run this? Will the wiring be up to the task if I run both filaments off of the same lead?

My other option is a Trailtech 8" halogen that I've got mounted on my dual-sported FC600. I have 50W and 100W bulbs for this light. Will the stock FE550 stator run the 100W bulb?

I'm just not sure if I want to disassemble the 8" setup on the 600 when the stock headlight may work just fine with both the low and high beams running.

Allright, then maybe I'll answer my own question. I wired up a switch to run the high beam tonight. The switch will run it independently of the low beam/taillight. I did some research and, if both beams are 35 watts, the total is 70 watts and an 18 ga wire is good for well over 100 watts so long as the google research I did was accurate. So, even if the high beam is 45 watts, that's still a total of 80 watts which should still be within the capability of the stock wiring. Obviously the stock wiring is 18 gage, at least according to the wire stripper that I used. The 18 gage hole stripped the wire the best without removing any strands.

So, I tried to start the bike. I hit the e-start button and...nothing. Yep, I popped the 10 amp fuse when I did my wiring. Note to self, don't cut the power and ground wires at the same time when cutting a connector off of the harness. The wire cutter completes the circuit and blows the fuse. Obviously I work on vehicles with the battery connected. Too lazy to disconnect the battery I guess.

Anyway, once I replaced the fuse (and it was a good thing that I blew it because it caused me to add some fuses to my tool roll in case I blow one during the race) and fired up the bike. The low beam works fine on the switch next to the computer and the high beam comes on when I flip the switch that I added. There is no blown fuse or hot power wire. I only ran the lights for a few moments, hoping that, in the small chance that I might need the light during the race, the high speeds will hopefully cool the light housing enough in the event the two light elements do produce enough heat to melt the housing while sitting still.

So there. Hopefully this will help someone else with the same question some day.

Tom