'07 fe650 mods

hello

you pretty much have to organize a big bore kit yourself now although DCR has a version (dave clark racing)

westwood in the UK made my liner, CP made my piston

there are aftermarket 100mm wossner and pro-x pistons available, prox is cheapest OEM is best IMHO

the wossner 8583 from a ktm 560 can be used to increase the comp ratio a fair bit or machine it down to get what you want.

but you can buy an OEM elko for less than a machined wossner

you can use NTN NJ206 mainbearings as an improvement

the stock cam is very hard to beat,

kibble white make oversize valves and they have the only dual valve spring kit worth buying

stock is pretty good the only parts on my bike that broke (apart from the gearbox) or didn't fit were aftermarket parts I got from the UK

ohlins suspension is nice if you can make it fit

the dual exhausts are silmotor and someone psoted they have an akro system with 2 pipes

bushmechanic said:

*snip*

the dual exhausts are silmotor and someone psoted they have an akro system with 2 pipes

Click to expand...

http://www.sr-racing.de/

Used to sell a dual system, my guess is that they still can make them.


/Nick

with rough calculations the wossner 8583 should be about 13.75 :1 but you'd have to check that, i haven't got one here to compare to.

stock cr is about 11.8 :1

wossner 8583 is 300gm vs 270 for the oem elko

the specs are available here

http://www.wossnerpistons.com/images/si ... 0_2011.pdf

more info

http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/show ... p?t=106339

if you keep the squish 0.9 to 1mm on the 100mm bore I reckon 98 RON (aussie) is plenty

the big bore kit that I have has a CR 11.8 :1 and squish 1.8mm... 98 octane is fine, if the squish were closer to 1mm I could probably run it on emu export

check the crank axial play before you take the cases apart and probably a good idea to measure head volumes squish, check the valve guides etc as well.

valve guides if shaggerd you can replace with sintered iron KTM rfs ones available with a groove machined into them from DJH on ktmtalk, they typically don't need honing after install whereas a bronze guide usually does.

0.6mm axial play with NTN roller mains part no here http://www.ktmatvhq.com/forum/sx-engine ... mbers.html

check the liner for out of round/ovality while it is in the cases .. remove piston then put it back together, no point measuring it while it out of the cases.

flick the seals off the intermediate shaft bearing its a 6905 (cam chain, water pump and counterbalancer drive shaft) and check for metal flakes, no matter where they come from they always end up in that bearing..

check exhaust rocker pin and at least turn it over

there is a sintered bronze bushing inside the clutch shaft to guide the slave piston it wears out pretty fast, i made a brass one.

its worth cleaning up the welds inside the headers and at the 2 into 1 junction of the collector, matching up the head casting and the carb to the intake boot and unshrouding the valves on the cam chain side of the head.

I'll think of more stuff later, should give you somewhere to start

Hi

"Weed" tried a few oil coolers and decided they were only useful in increasing capacity

go into the gallery and search "weed"

also the only berg 650 problem Gazza had in the safari was an aftermarket oil cooler

cheers
Bushie

I know someone who bought the oil and water pumps

don't bother is the gist of it

hes a member here and might post what he found

the 105mm liner/piston I found to be very good but good luck getting one from JBS

the KTM atv oil pump is 15mm wide instead of 10 and cam be made to fit i'll be doing that soon

the water pump is plenty big enough IMHO its the same as the KTM RFS and earlier bergs but it spins twice as fast

I forgot to mention the cam follower bearings are probably worth replacing Pn# 590 36 061 090

sure

there are a few different ways you could do it

the best way .. lots of machining

or the slightly dodgy way .. make parts that people can use to retrofit ...

Some people in this forum is GOLD! I feel lucky to talk with them

By the way, I think there are no difference between FS and FE engines,though the frame has.

Regards

sotosberg said:

Some people in this forum is GOLD! I feel lucky to talk with them

By the way, I think there are no difference between FS and FE engines,though the frame has.

Regards

Click to expand...

Just had to check... :nerd:
FE and FS frames are the same, as are the engines.

FC uses a different frame, guess they didn't mount the turn signal mounts on the frame..
FS has it's own swingarm (shorter, -05 to -08) and triple clamps (17 top/16 bottom offset, -05 to -08).

There are other differences, but I don't want to look like a total geek... :lol:

Best regards


/Nick

we sell larger valves, a carb kit for more power and better response, a DVSK, a nice iridium plug from denso, a road and track cam, HC pistons.

upgrade is to fit a starter repair kit to the two gears,a stronger decomp spring,

work done: look out for 'tuliped' inlets, exhaust seats tilted, valves generally not sealing due to the previous owner, the balancer should be a tap fit onto the crank and not a fall-on, check axial crank float for being way too little. you need 0.5mm. we find the OEM rollers are just fine. check the liner for ovality, put the most worn part of the rocker shafts on the top, any clonking in the Cam follower bearings, even a little = replace.

that is about it. a great bike.

Taffy

Hey ghost, you are right. FC and FS c frames dont have
-the hole for the handlebar lock,
-the small metal bases for the flash,
-The mount for the side stand

I new about difference in swing arm and on triples, but I thought that I have read somewhere that there is some change on caster. Might I was rong,might this change is only from the bigger wheel. :wink:

Regards

sotosberg said:

Hey ghost, you are right. FC and FS c frames dont have
-the hole for the handlebar lock,
-the small metal bases for the flash,
-The mount for the side stand

I new about difference in swing arm and on triples, but I thought that I have read somewhere that there is some change on caster. Might I was rong,might this change is only from the bigger wheel. :wink:

Regards

Click to expand...

There is a change in steering angle between -03 and -04. That should alter the caster, at least that's what I could figure out googling this stuff. (caster = angle between steering axle and the vertical axle drawn through the wheel axle) Wheels also alter the caster angle, but you already covered that one. :bounce3:


regards

/Nick