I am happy to reset my suspension again and go from there. I fully see how the rear launching me over the bars could be too much rear compression (20 out so who knows) instead of not enough rebound and I could see the rear kicking on whoops could be packing. Although, it was kicking out on single whoops (little quick jumps) too so I doubt that is packing. Maybe its both.
Just wish I rode more!
you know how you had the rebound?
it was packing
revalve - no need. don't listen to the tripe
questions:if you were stood up all the time, why would it launch you?
why would something that compresses down, launch you UP?
I notice your calming down a bit now, we're starting to get somewhere...
still getting duff info though aren't you! it's still pouring in. and at the end of the day you know the rule in the USA: when in doubt spend money on the problem............
except that unless the sussie guy was an idiot he probably did an excellent job and just needs you to get your springs, sags and triple clamps right.
I've had sussie guys not do enough but never one that screwed up - give them some credit for chrissakes!
it's a poor worker that blames his tools. don't blame the bike or the suspension from that guy.
you need to interpret what you are feeling better and start listening to the right people.
see the quote above at the top? I've marked it as wrong and here is why
If you don't have weight on the front - it washes out because it is the weigh compressing the tyre that presses the tyre into the dirt = grip.
you DO need weight transfer to help with this, weight transfer spreads the tyre out so you do need dip on the front. this is 90% to do with how you sit, tyre pressure, level of tread/grip. that is why the height of the bars is right down the list and NOT THE PROBLEM. bars add to dip, but the sussies have to start it.
for instance a taller seat causes a greater tipping motion both back and forwards which helps if you don't have enough. you have to decide.
the problem with the Husabergs is that if you get a lot of dip, the front washes out earlier in the corner (not at the apex), it is because you don't have enough trail.
so it usually pays to try and set up a Husaberg with thr forks flush in order to keep what little trail you have.
that means you don't get the dip!
but all this is irrelevant until you understand what is happening.
the kicking on the whoops isn't just packing (yes, the first right thing you've said!) but because the rear wheel is in mid air under the seat long after you left the peak of the bump! as the rear leaves the lip and you have the throttle open it'll kick left or right and then hang in mid air refusinfg to come down. all the time it is in mid-air it is turning the back end of the bike which you call a 'kick'!
do the trick with the rebound I taught you.
wind the 17mm nut into maximum. that is 3 and 1/4 turns all the way IN.
then set the compression screw halfway. then stand for everything on the straights, sit for the corners.
your a big boy and when I've been over to the States the big boys swear they stand all the time but they don't. some are honest....
I do things differently to everyone else, all I'm interested in is Race Sag and compression of the spring. I'm not interested in 35mm this or 30mm that.
two simple things
racing sag
what is the compressed length of the spring with wheels free.
the correct sag for a Husaberg dirt bike is nearer 90mm but with 18mm offset TCs.
I realise money is tight but try and buy a pair of the standard KTM 20mm offset clamps that are 10 a penny for small beer.
you want the sag with standard clamps to be 100mm and no more. you also need to give us the front race sags which should lose only about 65 to 70mm from wheels free to race sag.
try and get those figures.
also try and put a zip tie around the legs and that'll tell us something.
give us the clicker positions on the front? how much fork is poking out of the top.
Taffy
