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05 fs650 jetting - sorry to bring up more jetting questions!

H

husa1983

Joined Mar 2008
30 Posts | 0+
Doesn't seem to be very many FS650 riders on here more FE models?

I have a std 05 model except it has a full acro system on it, current jetting is stock as per manual as I have checked it.

Am wondering if anyone has any good jetting suggestions as to what I can tweak to get the engine to actually use the acro system to squeeze out some more power?

Currently it will pop the wheel up in 1st given a hand full but 2nd and 3rd no way!

it has a 38 rear and 16 font which doesnt help so will be putting the 15 back on the front asap!

Cheers!
 
RE: 05 fs650 jetting - sorry to bring up more jetting questi

04 FS650, 17/38 gearing, MJ 165, EKR needle #4 clip, 45 pilot, modified std exhaust. Power wheelies in 3rd.

It had 178 main and #6 clip, was very sluggish into the mid and the top end was flat.

I'll probably go leaner yet.
 
Have a go with a # 50 pilot jet 2 turns open on fuel screw 165 main is good &
lower the clip on what ever needle is in your carb by at least two! Then report
back to this thread. Thank you.
 
DMS needle on clip 3. 160MJ 35Pj with 45PAJ. no APJ.

it's all in the doc

regards

Taffy
 
dms needle? just to check when you say clip position 3 does that mean 3rd up from the bottom?

Am I correct in thinking that the higher up the clip the leaner it gets and then the lower the clip the richer as more needle will be pulled up through the main?

Also what does no APJ mean? this something to do with the accelerator pump?

Cheers.
 
husa1983 said:
dms needle? just to check when you say clip position 3 does that mean 3rd up from the bottom?

Am I correct in thinking that the higher up the clip the leaner it gets and then the lower the clip the richer as more needle will be pulled up through the main?

Also what does no APJ mean? this something to do with the accelerator pump?

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Hi husa,

Yes that is correct clip #1 is the top groove.
The easiest way to disconnect the AP is to remove the three small allen screws that hold the pump diaphragm cover, with the diaphragm and spring removed you will see the rod poking through just pull on this with a pair of pliers and it will come free.
Just reassemble the diaphragm spring and cover.
Failing that you can do the BK mod that is in the Doc.

Regards

sparks.
 
oddly enough, all bikes come with small details that can be improved. you'll find especially the japanese, keep an eye on what is being fitted to their machines and incorperate it themselves.

i use a small amount of AP.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
oddly enough, all bikes come with small details that can be improved. you'll find especially the japanese, keep an eye on what is being fitted to their machines and incorperate it themselves.

i use a small amount of AP.

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

You bugger Taffy you told me you had turned it off all together.

The FCR wasn't pacifically designed for the Husaberg, it just came with it, that's when people think are if it has got it on then we must need it.
But you'll find some 4 strokes need more AP than others thats why it's there. The main problem with the one fitted to the Husaberg is that it is not calibrated 3 secs is ridiculous, but by doing the BK mod you can achive this.
I tried 1 sec duration on mine and it didn't make any difference to the performance so I just turned it off, but there again I'm on the road not on the dirt and don't require sudden big hand fulls of throttle this is the difference I think.

Regards

Sparks.
 
:D Sparks you have said the answer to this question I thank you well done!!!

Different types or venues is as much a factor as different styles, all of the set up
is personal,we do not all ride in the same maner do we? Now if this idea makes you
think a bit this was the tread i was looking for to give my side & was well over do!
If one would take responsibility for there ability they would more often ask what
type of training is going to make me better!Of course this is just to much work for
most. Keep on spinin & grinnin!
 
What does the factory set it to, 3 secs? the FS model is intended for road/track use only anyway so theirs probably a perfect set and forget setting for the pump is their not as I don't need to jump logs etc!

What exactly does it do anyway? when I removed the carb and turned the throttle it shot out a fine jet of fuel that went a good metre or so in distance!
 
first of all you're the first man ever to not say that the fuel had squirted straight in his eye!!!!

happened to me. the APJ does little. the first thing is that you give the factory too much credit. the race tam might know what we know but if the carbs aren't fitted with the screws to adjust it, would you like to be the company that takes 200 carbs at a time and changes everything?

these things are done on a vast scale my freind!

if it doesn't help and it doesn't hinder? - it stays!

simple!

regards

Taffy
 
I always assumed the stock set up was to pass emissions testing in various regions.Insanely lean jetting for testing and ridiculously long pump squirt to help compensate if you actually tried to ride it this way.

As for factory specs,my first KTM(2000 125 exc)according to the manual,came jetted for a particular temp,elevation etc.The manual had a very comprehensive jetting chart in the back.The brass in it matched nothing in the guide and if you tried to jet it by the guide(which I did out of curiosity) the thing would barely run.So there :lol:
 
so what are we looking for then 1sec on the pump measured by a distance between a screw and the push plate or something?
 
yep

adjust so that as you touch the throttle it works and stops as quick as - that!

regards

Taffy
 
Is their anything on the forum that shows me how to adjust it?

Out of interest as you say the bike doesn't need it at all what does it do to the bike when it's squirting in all that extra fuel? Perhaps it's not helping my bike make as much power as it should be, running too rich?
 
it doesn't break up very well. it's a bit like you having a 'drive-by' kiln and putting in 15" bolders with the regular 3". what chance of it burning?

phuq all!

as usual (huge yawn) it's in the doc.

regards

Taffy
 
sounds about right!

Have read the "taff mod" and understand the gap setting!

assume to get to it you just remove the big black cover and its all exposed then, to set that 0.01 gap you must need a very very thin feeler gauge or can you just seat the adjuster screw then back it out a very small amount?
 
I HAVE A MARK 1 CARB WITH THE PLUNGER ARM ON THE RIGHT SIDE. THIS HAS A GAITOR ON IT. THAT NEEDS THE TAFF MOD.

the bk mod is done to the MK2 carb. you have one screw for when to start and one for when to stop. some carbs came with the screw to stop it. so you find the caste 'tab' and drill, tap it and fit a screw w/ a spring.

if unsure stick BK mod in google. you ask too many questions.....

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy mate I finally have some info for you to work from!

my current settings are (stock as per manual) I checked it all today except for the full akro system!

so...

160M
OBEKR needle
45 idle jet
200 main air jet
100 idle air jet
needle position was rich 2nd from the bottom!!! in book it says std is 4th from top so thats what i set it at (much stronger pull straight away and I am tempted to go to 3rd position)
85 starting jet
mixture control screw says std 2 turns out, I set as this but doing snap wheelie test in 2nd showed up massive bog, so i kept turning back in .5 turn a time and have ended up at.5 out (when i first checked setting a previous owner had set it to just a 1/4 turn out.

It will pop the wheel a bit in 2nd but I still feel that its a bit laggy/boggy...?! : /

Hope this helps you mate!

Cheers.
 

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