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exhaust leak

1

1dwn5up

Joined Sep 2008
9 Posts | 0+
bellingham, WA USA
Hello
this is my first post here and I am loving the site
I got my first husaberg a few weeks ago and am really impressed with the bike.
My question is about the exhaust. The lower header pipe where it meets the mid pipe is leaking. the 2 springs are attached but when I push on the header pipe it moves inside the mid pipe. do I need stronger springs?
Thanks in advance.
Tom
 
Sorry I should have been more specific.
It is a 2006 FE550E with only 3 hours on it. All stock.
Tom
 
Re: RE: exhaust leak

1dwn5up said:
Sorry I should have been more specific.
It is a 2006 FE550E with only 3 hours on it. All stock.
Tom
Click to expand...

Hi Tom,

Welcome to the site glad your enjoying it, if the headers are the same as my 04 I had the same problem, just use some standard car exhaust sealer that goes rock hard when sets, works a treat.
If you use the silicone stuff even the high temp stuff it will eventually vibrate the stuff out.

Regards

Sparks.
 
RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

thanks
i will do that.
do you have to take the exhaust apart and put it inside?
can i get it apart if I need to?
Tom
 
Re: RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

1dwn5up said:
thanks
i will do that.
do you have to take the exhaust apart and put it inside?
can i get it apart if I need to?
Tom
Click to expand...

Yes just drop the headers off and smear a thin lare inside and over the headers and stick it back together, make sure you wipe off the excess before it dries or else it's a pig to get off.
When back together start the engine up but just let it idle some sealers require heat to cure.

Regards

Sparks.
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

Guys can I just ask a similar question please. The very end cap that sits in the exhaust can has come loose in my bike (the rivets move in slightly elongated holes now, so I can rock the end cap slightly back & forth). The result was a melted exhaust slider I bought from the States, as the flue gases must escape through the rivets.... quite a mess..... ::cry: Anyway, does anyone know how I can go about fixing (drill out rivets, replace packing & refit new oversized rivets back in the holes??)

Thanks

Crispin

p.s. anyone got any "mi old grandmother says it works" ways of getting melted sh!te you've inadvertently welded on an exhaust off??
 
Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

Crispin said:
Anyway, does anyone know how I can go about fixing (drill out rivets, replace packing & refit new oversized rivets back in the holes??)
Click to expand...

Someone has used ally rivets at some point which causes this problem. Measure the holes, or the larger diameter holes you want to make as well as the length of the rivet and then go onto M & P's website as they sell packs of stainless steel exhaust rivets, some of which are the proper sealed type.

Hope this helps.

Simon
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

Thanks Simon. I'm sure the rivets are s/s as opposed to Aluminium (look & feel of them).

Attached is a small video link showing how the end moves, does your advise still stand?

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=5Nyqa6M-MyE

Does anyone think this an excuse to the wife for me to get a nice loud Akro????

Thanks

Crispin
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

Okay Crispin, that looks pretty *****.

drill out the rivets carefully to avoid slopping out the holes some more, clean everything up, for this i use aerosol 'carby cleaner' or throttle body cleaner, it will soon loosten any silicone or other sealer between the can and the cap.

find some oversized stainless or hi-tensile alloy rivets that will take up the slop in the holes, you may need to run a slightly larger drill through the existing holes to make sure they are round and tidy.

do all your re-packing if ur going to do it.

before re assembly, smear some good silicone, like copper based RTV silicone or GE silicone or engine assembly compound like 3Bond around the inside of the can and around the lip of the end cap, unfortunately this can make a ****** mess, no one likes silicone jism on their hands when doing a fiddly job, re assemble so that the holes line ip for the rivets.

shoot 3 or 4 rivets in to secure it in place, then get some more of the carby / throttle body cleaner on some rag to clean up any silicone overburdon so that only a tiny neat sealing bead remains around the joint, shoot the other rivets in and bob's yr uncle.

the carby cleaner should lift any of the rubber or whatever from where ur exhaust slider too, its prety good gear.

if u get sick of that routine, you can allways have someone spot mig some nuts on the inside of the end cap lip, then use some tidy little socket head bolts and spring washers to pull it up tight.

Azza.
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

Hey many thanks for the detailed explanation Azza, I'll give that a go & report back to you all on how I get on. As you say I'll get a small drill piece for the center of the rivets, and take it real easy!!! (I dont want to end up with 1/2" bolts in there..... :badair: )

I'll get some of that carb cleaner/silicon as well (theres my shopping list for the week!)

Again, thanks for the info/advise, you've helped out a struggling Hussa brother!!
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

Thanks to Awilksch for his advise on a repair method for my exhaust problem (above). You may know I've splashed out for an Akra which should arrive this weekend, however, I've now got the original one for "experimentation"....

I've added some photos of the disassembled exhaust to my gallery, if you've ever wondered what they look like inside take a peek (nothing exciting...!)

http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _album.php

I've added a drawing of the exhaust design as best as I can tell from what I can see, does this look right? Location A is where the two internal pipes meet - ref photos.

What I was wondering is whether there is a way of "opening" it up, i.e. get some serious DB's out?

Any ideas most welcome?

Thanks

Crispin
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

p.s. I'm going with the advise on the welding of the nuts on the inside of the end cap. The holes in the muffler body are failry phooked after all the fretting, so will get a good compression fit with bolts/washers & a nice tight fit-up. Plus I can always take the cap off more easily in future if needed.

Cheers

Crispin
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

Sounds like a pretty reasonable plan of action Crispin.

To get some serious dbs out if it you can replace the existing internals with a straight through perforated tube and packing - you'll get maybe a horsepower or two out of it but in my opinion, it's probably not worth the effort and cost of doing the work. IMHO you're better off just keeping the e marked one stock to help when you come to sell the thing and use the Akro for the noise!

The two internal pipes don't meet, they should overlap each other (hence why they are bent to each side of the silencer body) so that, in effect, the exhaust gases enter the chamber, expand, and then get pushed out of the exit through increased pressure in the chamber - this is the more effective way of noise reduction in this instance. If they met, the chamber would, through the small holes drilled in the front reentrant pipe, function like a resonator which would be far less efficient at silencing the thing.

Cheers,
Simon
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

Hey thanks Simon, sound advise! (no pun intended.....) I'll keep it standard (apart from the bolting), to act as my MOT can. Thanks for the info on the chamber & internal pipe configuration too, most enlightening.

Cheers

Crispin
 
Hey Crispin, i saw your photos of the dis-asembled pipe, when i first started stuffing about with my stock pipe, i realised that when the shops (well the shop i got my berg from anyway) de-restrict the bikes, they pull the end cap off and remove the tea strainer (ive never seen a berg with this still in - only in the sales brochures) and cut off that bent tube off the end cap, so there was just a small 1" section of tubing leading to the cap (prolly stopped the whole reverse flow of gasses, but likely also created a bit of an expansion chamber) and not sure of the overall gain from doing so.

then I brought a prorider KTM end cap (teres been a fancier new one made since) - theres photos in my gallery - it links the internal perf tube of the silencer straight to the end cap, with more perf tube, you also pack stuffing inside that rear chamber. it gave my 550 a fair bit more sting, and i'd estimate that if the Akra is supposed to give 5Hp more, then the end cap alone would have been at least 2 of those ponies.

I have my OEM silencer hanging in my shed, thought about stuffing about with it, maybe getting a KTM 525 silencer (so 2 are symetrical) and trying to create a twin syst, but thats all windmills in the mind realy.

Azza.
 
Thanks for the info Azza, hey what a great job you did of that exhaus. Looks "as-new", shame your the other side of the world, my stock exhaust looks a bit "under the weather" and could do with tarting up.

Crispin
 
The Akra you are talking 'bout?? a guy in adelaide did the dents and creases, $80.00 and a couple of days, he did a bloody fine job - specially considering the Akra cans for husabergs are non-replaceable items (unavailable) and my investigations with the Akra importer says that none of the other mx bike cans have the same outer skin!!

I spose thats why I allways crash out onto my right hand side.

Azza.
 
definately try the bolts crispin i have done so on my 650 its alot better, cut the pipe to an inch long, just give the bolts a small tweak before riding and not much louder than before bonus spits flames :D
 
Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: exhaust leak

awilksch said:
if u get sick of that routine, you can allways have someone spot mig some nuts on the inside of the end cap lip, then use some tidy little socket head bolts and spring washers to pull it up tight.

Azza.
Click to expand...

Guys, have engineered quite a nifty solution to this exhaust problem using the idea Azza mentioned above, refer to below pics. Had the nuts tig welded within the inner cap surface, then the allen head bolts thread through & hold the cap nice & tight!! great fit & able to remove & replace nice & easy;

29112008137.jpg


And fitted;

29112008138.jpg


Crispin
 

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