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Winter bike modification

Joined Mar 2005
250 Posts | 1+
West coast Sweden
We are now starting to build a winter race engine with following spec:
40mm intake, 34mm outlet valves.
Piston 1mm squish.
Light crank.
43.5mm carb.
titanium valve springs KTM 450SX.
D-Port exaust.
Straight inline airflow-filter from rallycar.
6 speed close ratio gearbox.
Mx composite rod.
Double exaust system, short 93db silencer.
 

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  • Husa 644 light-s..jpg
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RE: winter race bike

try searching mxcomposites. you'll finf it there....

EHW
engine looks great but i truly don't believe that a CR box will help?
looks great!

regards

Taffy
 
RE: winter race bike

so it's one of the metal matrix composites that were discussed on a thread a little while ago then.

never ridden a supermoto but would imagine a cr box would be of benefit as ,if your any good, your either accelerating or braking, with little steady throttle time so a cr box hasn't got the large gaps in the ratios and you can keep it humming.

didn't someone recently also comment that the ex-freddy fiorention bike they had just bought had a cr box in it?

enginehardwares site is in my list of berg favourites as i like keep an eye on all the bits that various people are developing.

quick question, is there any weight saving over the standard exhaust or is there a little weight gain which is accepted for the increased performance?
 
RE: winter race bike

fraser

the only difference is 6th is brought back closer to 5th. it's the top gear from the old fc470. a bike with the power that this one has got, in 6th of either ratio is going to piss through it which is great if you have a 'revver for a bike is ideal but when you have the torque that this will have then a taller 6th is even better.

if anyone needs a CR 6th it should be a fat twit ona a 400.








and i'm not interested! (LOL)!!!!!

regards

Taffy
 
RE: winter race bike

Wow man I have to say that bike is absolutely beautiful!!! In a Very MEAN sort of way:) The carbon fiber bodywork and the grey frame look awesome!
 
Re: RE: winter race bike

2000fc501rider said:
Wow man I have to say that bike is absolutely beautiful!!! In a Very MEAN sort of way:) The carbon fiber bodywork and the grey frame look awesome!

Just some more photos.
 

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Re: RE: winter race bike

Taffy said:
try searching mxcomposites. you'll finf it there....

EHW
engine looks great but i truly don't believe that a CR box will help?
looks great!

regards

Taffy

Hallo.
The reson for a mx 6th gear is i dont want a big rpm dropp, it can probebly pull a tall 6th gear easy but we have tried the mx gear and it fit the track perfect. We use 16/42 sprockets so its anyway fairly fast. The longest straight part on the ice is approx 650m before a 180dgr left turn. Our ice track is 3000m long and 10m wide, normally we dont change the layout from each winter.
Regards
Thomas
 
RE: Re: RE: winter race bike

Mx composite rod
Hi Thomas,

First of all, bike looks great!


have done my homework, have been reading the old post and been looking at the mxcomposites-hp;
but couldn´t find any pricing info about the rod?
Can you help?
I guess, you´ve been several engines with this rod running - any problems at all? How often does it need to be replaced (hobby & real-racing)?
 
Re: RE: Re: RE: winter race bike

Gokai134 said:
Mx composite rod
Hi Thomas,

First of all, bike looks great!


have done my homework, have been reading the old post and been looking at the mxcomposites-hp;
but couldn´t find any pricing info about the rod?
Can you help?
I guess, you´ve been several engines with this rod running - any problems at all? How often does it need to be replaced (hobby & real-racing)?

Hi.
The rod is expensive, we paid approx 1000Euro/pc some time ago, when it was new on the market. could be some price reduction now but i dont know.
Not any big problems with the rod, we use it with the 644cc crank, the oil pressure is increased by putting more tension on the pressure relive valve spring.
I have no messurement on the wear of the rod but i belive it should last long, the problem is not the conrod on the engine, main bearing failure can destroy the rod.
I see no benefit on a engine used for hobby riding.
Starting the engine is odd, you have to build up some "oil pressure" or amount of oil in the big end of the conrod, by running the starter or kickstart at least 20 times or 30sec, there is no needle bearing so it need some oil to make it work.
Its a "trick" part that have some benefit due to that its so light and zero flex.
Regards
Thomas
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: winter race bike

how much oes it weigh compared to the OEM part?

i trust that having re-balanced the crank that there is no going back!

regards

Taffy
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: winter race bike

Starting the engine is odd, you have to build up some "oil pressure" or amount of oil in the big end of the conrod, by running the starter or kickstart at least 20 times or 30sec, there is no needle bearing so it need some oil to make it work.
Its a "trick" part that have some benefit due to that its so light and zero flex.

Thomas,
thank you for the informations;
don´t think Ill´use the rod in my Berg (unfourtunatly):(

Just an idea:
guess you know the "pre-oilers" for some marine-(inboard)engines - ever thought about using it?
An easier solution is to use Ester-based oils in your engines...

regards
 

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