sparks said:
Yes I did and as I said earlier, I got a few good sparks but not very consitent, but I think that has more to do with the irregularity of kicking than with the electrical system.
Unable to start engine after rebuild.
- Thread starter BelgiqueBasterd
- Start date
Yes I did and as I said earlier, I got a few good sparks but not very consitent, but I think that has more to do with the irregularity of kicking than with the electrical system.
LeFrog said:
I'm from the non lazy more intelligent part of Belgium, ie the dutch speaking part
, but I'm getting closer and closer to the point that I'm gonna turn to stella to find the answer 
Joined Mar 2005
514 Posts | 6+
Sunset desert/ Murray River. S.A/Victoria Australi
tuts said:
Some high grade aptly named starting fluid :lol:
http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productId=syb#
BelgiqueBasterd said:LeFrog said:
I'm from the non lazy more intelligent part of Belgium, ie the dutch speaking part
Hey isn't the trick to make a fortune to buy a Fleming at his real market value and to resell him at the value he thinks he is?
LeFrog said:BelgiqueBasterd said:LeFrog said:
I'm from the non lazy more intelligent part of Belgium, ie the dutch speaking part
Hey isn't the trick to make a fortune to buy a Fleming at his real market value and to resell him at the value he thinks he is?
Unfortunately not, otherwise I'd be a rich man!!
Victory at last!!! It started!!!!
This afternoon I pulled the clutch and valve cover to check if the cam was timed correctly, everything was as you guys said it should be, but when I reassembled the valve cover I noticed that when I put the cover on there was a 0,5mm gap on the right hand side of the engine!!! I've put in KTM 450 valve springs and the are straigth not conical shaped like the standard Husey ones. And apparantly both right hand side valves hit the valve cover. I didn't notice this when I first assembled it and I must've opened the valves when tightening the bolts on the valve cover!
After a little dremel action the cover fit like a charm
Put the block back together, kicked it like 30 times and suddenly thump thump thump, music to my ears!!!
Only let it run for a couple of seconds otherwise my wife would've killed me for waking up my baby girl!! But still she runs, at last!
I only let the engine run for a maximum of 10 seconds, blipped the throttle only slightly and the exhaust was already hot, I couldn't hold my hand on it anymore. Is this normal or is this an indication for a bad fuel air mixture or something like that?
Here's some pictures of how the cam timing is, should be ok, all pictures taken with the piston at TDC.
This afternoon I pulled the clutch and valve cover to check if the cam was timed correctly, everything was as you guys said it should be, but when I reassembled the valve cover I noticed that when I put the cover on there was a 0,5mm gap on the right hand side of the engine!!! I've put in KTM 450 valve springs and the are straigth not conical shaped like the standard Husey ones. And apparantly both right hand side valves hit the valve cover. I didn't notice this when I first assembled it and I must've opened the valves when tightening the bolts on the valve cover!
After a little dremel action the cover fit like a charm
Put the block back together, kicked it like 30 times and suddenly thump thump thump, music to my ears!!!
Only let it run for a couple of seconds otherwise my wife would've killed me for waking up my baby girl!!
But still she runs, at last!I only let the engine run for a maximum of 10 seconds, blipped the throttle only slightly and the exhaust was already hot, I couldn't hold my hand on it anymore. Is this normal or is this an indication for a bad fuel air mixture or something like that?
Here's some pictures of how the cam timing is, should be ok, all pictures taken with the piston at TDC.
There is always an answer to a problem and it looks like yours was a small one.
Now the fun starts with that fancy cam and hi comp piston may be Dr_c or Taffy may be able to point you in the right direction or the main engineer Mr Lineaweaver.
Glad to here it played you a tune, and all your settings look good to me, congratulations.
Regards
Sparks.
Now the fun starts with that fancy cam and hi comp piston may be Dr_c or Taffy may be able to point you in the right direction or the main engineer Mr Lineaweaver.
Glad to here it played you a tune, and all your settings look good to me, congratulations.
Regards
Sparks.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
well done BB!
free at last, free at last!
your cam timing is a little out. it tilts backward sand really ought to tilt if anything forwards in anticipation of cam chain wear! that'll be losing you a little power somewhere. top end power i suspect will take a little loss.
secondly, as mentioned, the idea is to get it started and then set the ignition timing with a strobe afterwards. because the ignition is correct/******** even you have combustion taking place in the exhaust ports, well at least more than it used to. that's why you can't touch the headers.
get it running and have the strobe ready.
should we be concerned about your (lack of) mechanical ability given that you didn't spot the cover was up .5mm!!!!
what was the reason for the conversion to straight springs? technically speaking?
did you check what the compressed height is? we have figures for the standard valve springs in the doc under engine tuning. so what is it for the katoom?
regards
Taffy
free at last, free at last!
your cam timing is a little out. it tilts backward sand really ought to tilt if anything forwards in anticipation of cam chain wear! that'll be losing you a little power somewhere. top end power i suspect will take a little loss.
secondly, as mentioned, the idea is to get it started and then set the ignition timing with a strobe afterwards. because the ignition is correct/******** even you have combustion taking place in the exhaust ports, well at least more than it used to. that's why you can't touch the headers.
get it running and have the strobe ready.
should we be concerned about your (lack of) mechanical ability given that you didn't spot the cover was up .5mm!!!!
what was the reason for the conversion to straight springs? technically speaking?
did you check what the compressed height is? we have figures for the standard valve springs in the doc under engine tuning. so what is it for the katoom?
regards
Taffy
Taffy how do you see his timing is off? Because of the cam lobe position? The exhaust side higher?
Taffy said:
Well everything is on hold now, have to go to sunny Wales for a couple of weeks to go work on the South Hook LNG terminal, you UK guys must've heard of it, there have been massive protests opposing the pipeline crossing the UK starting from there!
@ Taffy, should you be concerned about my technical ability, yes you should!
It's the first time I do a rebuild and it's obviously learn as I go, the good thing is, this will never happen to me again The reason for using these valve springs, is just following the advice of the guy from enginehardware.se wich seemed very knowledgable about Husey's, according to him the springs are softer wich results in a better output and lower wear on the rocker arms. Don't even know what it means, but it sure sounds good!
I'll surely be back here in a couple of weeks when I fail to set up the strobe properly and will be desperately in need of help once again!!
Once again thanks to everyone for your tips and time, Christof.
Joined Dec 2005
1K Posts | 0+
australia
if this is the 1st time you have rebuilt a motor i would say you have done well .
there is big room for error and you have small problems . :thumbup:
there is big room for error and you have small problems . :thumbup:
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
LeFrog said:
yes froggy
when dale says symmetrical then that is what he means. the angle looks to be almost 10-15 crankshaft (so that's about 7 camshaft degrees) out. i hope that maddel will put that in the owners doc unde4r engine tuning - cam timing as it's a good example.
i would definately pull the camwheel off and have an engineer slot the camwheel. i went within .5mm of the hole that husaberg machine in to balance the cam.
regards
Taffy
have you checked piston to valve clearance with your LX2 cam? It should be 40thou min, preferably nearer 50thou. I say this, because my 470 with LX2 cam was 36thou which was too tight as valves kissed piston with the results seen in the attached 8Osparks said:
Attachments
just a word to the wise taffy, hi-comp piston and LX2 cam can be disastrous if you don't cut the valve pockets. Dale did warn me, but I thought I'd be OK at 36thou, I was wrong
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
so that was 0.9mm on one valve pocket - what about the other pair? also - he didn't warn me - not sure why?
i would say that .040" should have been enough if you like living dangerously so you were a bit unlucky. what was the quoted and what was the measured compression on that?
what's your name vorman?
regards
Taffy
i would say that .040" should have been enough if you like living dangerously so you were a bit unlucky. what was the quoted and what was the measured compression on that?
what's your name vorman?
regards
Taffy
Taffy, name's Keith and I'm a mate of Steve's (gruntenberg) in Hull.Taffy said:
I measured valve to piston clearance on both exhaust and inlet valves using lead solder at 36thou, not the 40thou that Dale recommended. Another Steve I know who mechanicked for a Hull Vikings speedway rider recommends 50thou as a safer bet - this he told me after my blow up :roll: I sure could do with some of that 20:20 hindsight
I didn't measure the CR on the 470 this LX2 cam went in, but they are specced at 12.4:1 which is somewhat higher than the 11.0:1 of my now 650. As you know, a 470 hi-comp piston is a well known performance hop up for the 650, just make sure you mill some 14thou out of those valve pockets :wink:
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
aaaah!
and in the doc it says 1.25mm which is well eeeer! 50 thou (ouch i felt that!)
shame you're not in the IOM ride. perhaps when we get a UK force ride together over there you'll try?
to be honest i don't think the 0.9mm was the problem in itself. if you can send me a copy of the photos to my email address which i'll PM you now i'd like a closer look.
could be springs are weakening or a valve snapped but i haven't looked close and i know you habve and know your stuff....
regards
Taffy
and in the doc it says 1.25mm which is well eeeer! 50 thou (ouch i felt that!)
shame you're not in the IOM ride. perhaps when we get a UK force ride together over there you'll try?
to be honest i don't think the 0.9mm was the problem in itself. if you can send me a copy of the photos to my email address which i'll PM you now i'd like a closer look.
could be springs are weakening or a valve snapped but i haven't looked close and i know you habve and know your stuff....
regards
Taffy
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