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OK I need help with this cam chain thing

L

LeFrog

Joined Mar 2005
3K Posts | 3+
Mesa, AZ
I know some of you have already answered this in the past but I am a little confused about the exact methodology one has to use in order to change the cam chain without screwing up the timing.

I have a new chain, with the proper number of links per the manual, a new, updated, lever and a new tensioner.

First of all, what is the best method to remove the chain? I have never done that before, so please understand my hesitations.

Next how do I make sure I do not lose the timing? What cycle should the piston be at in order to not screw this up? Should I have the cam lobes in a certain position. Can I use a sharpie to mark the spot?

Once you've done it once, I guess it is very easy but until then, I am confused, okaaaay.

Thanks for the help in advance.

And yes, it's ridiculous, I should have done it (or it done) a long time ago.
 
MR LE FROG sir .

i will attempt to guide u thru this nightmare .

1] use a marker pen to mark all the timing marks , the piston must be a TDC , the cam lobes will be at 11 and 1 . 0' clock .

i use a small pencil grinder to grind the heads off the pins on the cam chain and then tap the pins thru .

make sure you have rags in places where the pins will want to dive into when you gently tap them out .

join the new chain to the old chain feed it thru , join it at the top , using a metal weight of some description to have behind the new chain as you blast the pins with a hammer .

then check to make sure the timing is right , job done .

disclaimer ... this is my way and i have only had one seizure which resulted in a near death experience . 8)
 
Alrighty! Thanks for the help.

Does it matter if the dots on the two gears are not aligned?

I also read somewhere you can use a bicycle chain breaker. Has anybody tried?
 
LeFrog said:
Alrighty! Thanks for the help.

Does it matter if the dots on the two gears are not aligned?

I also read somewhere you can use a bicycle chain breaker. Has anybody tried?
Click to expand...

I use a bicycle chainbreaker, it works great.
Then join the old and new chain and turn the crank/gears around.
I had removed the left cover to check the timing.
Easy job :) Slowly i become a Husaspecialist, after a rebuild, tuning and lost balancer

good luck
 
So all I need to do is align the dots to make sure the timing is right?

I thought more needed to be checked...
 
Also Berger suggested I might have jumped time, which is what I fear might have happened. If I set the bike at TDC and align the dots, with lobes at 11 and 1 O'C, what else do I need to do to be sure?

Thanks, folks.
 
LeFrog said:
Also Berger suggested I might have jumped time, which is what I fear might have happened. If I set the bike at TDC and align the dots, with lobes at 11 and 1 O'C, what else do I need to do to be sure?

Thanks, folks.
Click to expand...

Hi Froggy,

As long as you are at TDC and the dots line up horizontaly then that is it valve timing set.
Hope your new chain isn't as tight as mine.
What make of chain do you have?.

Regards

Sparks.
 
I'll check the brand of the chain tonight.

You say dots line up horizontally you mean the lobes, right?
 
I never thought, I'm going off my 550 when I say the two dots, the 550 cam sprocket there are two dots when these are horizontal with the head casting and you are at TDC then that is timing set, but if you don't have these two dots then the cam lobes point at 11 and 1 or 5 and 7 as on a clock face with the piston at TDC.

Regards

Sparks.
 
well I have the two dots, but when they are aligned the cam lobes are not.
 
Thats strange, about as strange as my tight cam chain, but as a rule of thumb all 4 stroke engines with OHC run the lobes at 11 & 1 and 5 & 7 at TDC. As for your dots, I don't know mine line up OK.
I'll swop my lined up dots for your loosely fit cam chain.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Are you guys talking about the same dot's? I'm getting the impression that sparks is talking about dot's on the cam sprocket and Lefrog is talking about the dot's on the crank and drive shaft gear wheel.
 
I am talking about the only dots supposed to line up, the latter in your list. Unless there are other dots...
 
OK Le Frog there are two sets of dots three down below which when the piston is at TDC they should be in line one dot facing the two others.

There are two dots on the cam sprocket these should be horizontal to the head casting, it doesn't matter which way the lobes face up or down as the valve gearing ratio is 2:1.
I hope by putting this you can get your Grey matter around it.

Regards

Sparks.
 
whosahberg said:
mr le frog SIR

could you post up some photos of what you have in front of you .
Click to expand...

I will put some photos when I get around to doing it.

Indeed, on the 01s the dots are only on the gears below.

Thanks for all your help, fellows!
 
Somebody asked: the chain is a 66 links KTM stock part from Motoxotica.
 
Ok, here is an update. The old chain did not need to be broken, or ground, or cut. There was a little clip to remove and the link came off very easily. Duh, now I feel even stupider to not have done this earlier. Anyway.

The timing chain is removed, the new one is a 66-link DID, that came to me in a KTM box, and it has a magic link as well, minus the clip, for a reason, but I can reuse the old one.

The new chain is also slimmer than the old one, which I do not think is in such a bad shape. Both chains have about the same length. The old one is slightly longer by about a couple millimeters, from what I can see.

Also I have a new tensioner and tensioner lever (see other thread) and the new one is longer by a millimeter, which is not a lot, but I guess it will help. I had to use the old tip, as the new one did not include it. Is this normal?

Here is my new thread about the lever
 

Attachments

  • TensionersOldNew_400.jpg
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  • NewOld_400.jpg
    NewOld_400.jpg
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  • MagicClip_400.jpg
    MagicClip_400.jpg
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according to the pic of the"magic clip", i guess its magic indeed that holds on the spring clip since the link has no grooves 8O
 

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