Push button fork bleeders

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Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
11
Location
Oregon
Fork bleeders available for your WP 43mm/48mm fork caps. E-mail me for details. [email protected]

$10/pair....caps need to be drilled and tapped. I have it in a kit form with a drill bit and tap also. Bleeders are 1/8" npt.
 

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Re: ***Push Button Fork Bleeders!!!***

Hotrodvw,

Sent you an email about the bleeders, get back with me at your earliest convenience.

Regards,
 
Re: ***Push Button Fork Bleeders!!!***

So my fork bleeders arrived the other day and I finally had the chance to install them today. Not hard at all. Problem is that while drilling the hole on my drill press for the bleeder, the cap caught and spun around and around breaking one of my rebound needles :cry: . I finished both of the jobs up in only about 30min and reinstalled but now I do not have a rebound adjustment on my left fork... Does anyone know where I can pick up any cool aftermarket WP rebound clickers??? The ones on the bike are a hardened composite of some sort but a friend of mine was saying that he has seen some aluminum ones before, any clues here fellas? Sounds like a good excuse to go down and have my suspension done up at Palo Verde :wink: .

Eric,

Thanks for the bleeders, great quality, easy install, worth every penny!

Regards,
 
Re: ***Push Button Fork Bleeders!!!***

I might have a spare at home.......I can check for you tonight. Glad you're happy!!! Let's see some pics!!!!
 
Re: ***Push Button Fork Bleeders!!!***

Hotrodvw,

Here are the pics you requested:

Pic 1 : Top view
Pic 2 : Front view
Pic 3 : Side view

I have yet to clean my bike up after the Phx ride last weekend so the bike is still a little worn looking but the bleeders look great. With the exception of breaking my rebound clicker, my fault, I am happy with the results. I called Palo Verde suspension up the morning I broke my clicker and they have them for sale and in stock for less than $15 so I will probably be going down to pick one up in the next few days. I inquired about a custom rework of both forks and the rear shock and was a little taken back at how much a total "works" job would cost me. I would like to have suspension customized to my type of riding but man is it expensive! Maybe I will have to do the rear shock first and then do the front at a later time to try to offset the cost a little bit, phsycological I know but $700-$800 dollars is a lot of dough 8O ....

Thank you!

Regards,
 
Re: ***Push Button Fork Bleeders!!!***

Give Richard Wilson at House of Horsepower a call up here in Eugene, Oregon. He does stellar work on the KTM's, and I see Husky's & Husy's in there quite a bit also. His number is 541-461-2194....tell him Eric Gwaltney sent you. His prices are usually about half, yes....HALF what everyone else charges. I had him work over my KTM, and it made a huge difference. Thanks for the pictures!!! Eric
 
Re: ***Push Button Fork Bleeders!!!***

If anyone from you wants to buy push button bleeders try the no sxs06125610 at your nearest Husaberg dealer.its the new Husaberg force part (fork bleeders).
 
Re: ***Push Button Fork Bleeders!***

I didn't know that I was supposed to bleed the forks until a couple of days ago. What does happen if you don't do this? Do the seals blow??
 
Re: ***Push Button Fork Bleeders!***

it's now advised by the OWNERS at ktalk that you DON't bleed. the air is the very cushion that you'll be riding on from the 100th yard to the finish 3-hours later. it's the way you set your bike up: with that air cushion in mind!

now tell me why you would remove it? (given that todays seals are vastly superior to the old stuff).

regards

Taffy
 
WP put the bleed screws there for a reason. With air in your forks, the pressure of the air builds and drops due to elevation, temperature, activity, etc.....this creates an inconsistency in your set up. Not supposed to bleed them? I don't buy it. I guess at this point I say, show me where it says that.
 
The way I understand it the fork bleeders are used after a day of riding before you are going to park you steed in its corral. While riding your bike, the up/down stroke of the piston causes the oil in the shim stacks to cavitate producing tiny air bubbles in the oil. Also during this process the friction created during the up/down stroke of the piston changes the pressures inside the shock and alters the viscosity of the oil, mostly due to heat. Of course all of these different variables will affect the characteristics of the suspensions handling.
What Taff is saying makes good sense to me if you are riding a competition where you are pushing the bike to the extremes. You would probably not want to bleed the shocks in the middle of a race, changing the suspension characteristics, and then having to relearn you bikes handling under competition??? Probably not a something you would want to do unless its running too stiff and you want to soften it up a bit.
It also makes sense that you are not going to know how good/bad your suspensions tune is while sitting in the garage jumping up and down on your seat now are you??? In order to truly know if you shock is set up to your fancy, you will have to run it through the gauntlet of your local area to get a feel for its characteristics. If this is the case, getting it up to "normal operating conditions" is important to get a true idea of how the shock is going to perform, is this not correct? I have not ever seen or heard a story of anyone bleeding their forks while in the middle of competition... who's got time to bleed off air while concentrating on riding?
Taff is right, while riding your bike leave the bleeders alone. Get the shock to operating temp and conditions and ride with it there. When your packing it up at the end of the day, releve the pressure out of the fork and let the oil relax a little bit, it surely deserves a little stress relief after cushioning your *** all day long :wink:

ps. Relieving the pressure allows the air bubbles to surface and seperate from the oil, It also takes unwanted pressure from the fork seals while parked in the garage. This will help maximize seal life and keep the oil from seeping out as well.


Regards,
 
No, no one is going to be bleeding their forks while riding, racing etc.... I use them to vent excess pressure before I go for a ride, since it's usually at some elevation. As temps change, pressure builds and drops as stated before. If you have too much pressure build up, your seals can start to weep, but not always. Most of thta is due to dirt in the seals. The main idea here is to neutralize the forks to where they're supposed to be. Air pressure in the forks is bad. I think that if the oil height is correct, there will not be as much cavitation as you think. Air rises to the top and will stay there, unless you oil is so low, the shims are rising above the oil...................at which point your set up is gonna suck. Just my $.02
 
Hotrodvw said:
No, no one is going to be bleeding their forks while riding

You'd think so... but I once watched a buddy check the oil on his WR450 while idling around the parking lot. I laughed so hard I thought I was gonna crap myself... :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Hotrodvw said:
Air pressure in the forks is bad.

no it's not. perhaps you don't understand.

your forks have air pressure in them after a minute of riding. it's a cushion of air. it's therefore part of your suspension! whenever you've adjusted your forks it has been on the basis of how the bike performs WITH that air pressure! so all you're doing is re-calclating with the air pressure included.

a fool and his money are easily parted.....

regards

Taffy
 
So taffy what your saying is that suspension company's have no idea and just install air bleed screws on there forks for kicks..?
sounds like a load of ***** to me mate...

cheers doug
 
what i'm saying is that they don't want the seals to blow while sat in the paddock and that's why they are there. but given that seals are so good nowadays that doesn't happen either does it!

they spend exactly the right amount on it. 2 pence!

they drill a hole, tap it and put a cheap screw in it. that's all it deserves. it's the punters that then go and spend silly money on it.

i have only had this thought from k-talk put into my head recently otherwise i'd be out there saving up my hard-earned cash yet again to blow on 'goodies!' etc.

have you ever read up on sub tanks and what they do and their advanrages etc? well it seems that air pressure is bad but infact the problem is the size of the chamber that it is restricted too - the fork! that's why sub tanks are becoming popular. it won't be long before it's OEM on a manufacturers bike i would think.

regards

Taffy
 
I don't claim to be an expert (x= unknown, spurt= drip under pressure) :twisted: but.........
Look at it this way. The oil weight and valve stack controls how fast the fluid moves, thus the speed of the forks. the air acts like a cushion to keep from slamming ie hydraulic lock up. If you didn't have a air gap your action at the end of the stroke will be like hitting a wall. If you can use a larger amount of air space, (sub tanks) you can have a softer cushion or more plushness and still have plenty of oil to slow down the action. Taffy is right about the air pressure building up. It happens right away and you should probably not change it while ridding and you should not bleed it with you on the bike. If you do you just lost some of that cushion. but...... after hitting a long section of whoops and then getting into a single track section of rocks on a trail ride you bet your *** I will let the pressure out and have a more plush set of forks in the rocks. :D

I remember in the good old days that you pumped air INTO your forks to have them firmer (less cushion). That was in the time before clickers. Fast, primitive, change but it worked

There are so many ways to look at suspension that people have made careers out of it and are still learning how to get more out of it.

I probably just let all of you know how LITTLE I know but thats my .02 worth and remember ... you get what you pay for :D
 

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