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A bit of help needed with rocker cover inspection

Bobzilla, I did open the rocker cover after all, because the bike would lose oil even when just started and idling in the garage and I fear that a long ride would be fatal due to heavy oil loss.

Also I could find a lot of metal particles in the oil screen, but nothing in the oil filter... I know that Bob had new parts put in the engine, but I wonder if my oil loss may have not created some damage already?

So I did what I was advised and it all went well, except that I have not put the sealant yet, as I am waiting to get the Threebond 1211 liquid gasket.

If I am unable to find this particular sealant, is it possible to use a different one from an auto parts store, and if yes which one?

Bob, don't take this as a blame or a flame, ok, but I wonder if there was not enough sealant remaining, as it was pretty much metal against metal. Look at the photos below.

I say remaining because there may well have been enough sealant at the beginning.

Anyway, what is the best way to apply said sealant? I don't want too liberal nor too economical either.

Also, I did not find the "the little tiny O ring located in the left rear corner(viewed as you are sitting on it) of the head/rocker box gasket area" that Dale EO was talking about...

I will also try and reset the axial play per the manual page that Joe pointed out.

Thanks for your help, you're a great bunch of people. :p
 

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good ol' nick!

the bloody 'o' ring is stuck to your cover and not the head :lol: :lol: :lol:

it is ordinary kitchen towel you need to use and rub and rub until it's all off. clean it dry! it will all fall or rub off!

don't forget to disconnect the decomp.

then face the cover as per the DOC! it teaches you how to do it there!

regards

Taffy
 
I was going to post about the o ring being stuck the box cover but Taff beat me to it!

Frog, it's hard to explain about how much silicone to use, I can tell you, that you don't want to lay a "bead" IE a round segment that would look like tooth paste on the brush, that would be way too much. By the looks of the second picture, it appears that the last assembler put on plenty, you can see how it pushed out around the edges both inside and out, no too bad though. I am surprised however that it was leaking as it appears there was plenty of sealant, but, all it takes is just a whisp of oil on the surface and when you put the two halfs together it will just push the sealant off the surface.

Be sure you clean it SUPER good, and just before you assemble it wipe both surfaces off with some kind of contact cleaner. I really like CRC brand of cleaner called "lectra solv". Use a clean white rag, and keep cleaning until the rag stays white while you're wiping down the sealing surface.

Make sure your hands are clean and dry, then squeeze out a small amount of sealant on your finger, (if you can't get the three bond in time, although I'd wait as long as possible for it, any high temp silicone sealer will do) and wipe a nice thin layer on the motor side. Keep doing this all the way around. Now if you want, go along with said finger and touch the surface with the sealer on it and lift your finger, this will cause the sealant to have little fingers of sealant sticking up, and will help in sealing. Next take your box cover, with the decompressor spring unhooked as taff pointed out, and very, very, slowly put it on top of the motor making suret that you have put the little o ring back in place on the motor side first, and the cam end cover thingie. Install all the bolts and tighten it down slowly and evenly. Now, you should be able to see that the sealant has pushed out all the way around, look closely around the plug area. If it hasn't, pull the box back off and add a little sealant as necessary.
 
skim that rocker cover!

go to common faults in the doc for how it's done!

regards

Taffy
 
Many of the sealers "skim over" quickly and require a thin coating quickly applied on both sides. Upon assembly the 2 skimmed over layers will bond, but a single layer skimmed over won't bond to the metal. Makes the sealer blow out easily. Directions will often point this out.
dan
 
That's one of the really good attributes of 1211, it doesn't skim over quickly. I have used the aforementioned process several times with great success.
 
Vic
I think I had enough sealant but the problem is probably in Taff's above mentioned Skim the cover statement. I was too lazy to do that or it may also be the above mentioned fact that I didn't get the surfaces clean enough.
 
Alright, I will do as you all say.

I am still unable to find any O ring at all, on the cover or anywhere. Nothing came out, nothing fell out...!
 
Thanks a lot for pointing it out, FoSebendy.

What do you guys mean by skim over?
 
LeFrog, not sure what year your bike is, but pre 2001 models do not have oil fed rockers and thus no o-ring.

Be sure to keep track of where the bolts go as they are different lengths. I made a cardboard template with holes for each bolt so I would not mix them.

Also, be careful not to over-tighten the rocker cover bolts!!!! It is very easy to pull the threads out of the head, then you will have to tap and use longer bolts or use thread inserts.

Also, my vent hose cracked once and spewed oil onto the rocker, then it ran down and appered to be coming from the rocker cover.
 
Sealant rapidly dries on the surface leaving a dry layer similar to cellophane. Dry layer won't stick to the other metal surface, wet stuff in the middle blows out the sides. When Taffy refers to skimming your rocker cover, here in the US we would refer to it as having it planed or surfaced to be certain it is flat.
dan
 
froggy

a light 'skim' of silicone on each surface. it should be thin a bit like the silicone is in the last picture on the vertical side you can see in the picture. you can just about see the aluminium through it.

to skim or in your case you're going to plain the head. skimming is what would happen in the machine shop ok? it's just a term of speech.

skim here means 'thin' or 'light'.

regards

Taffy
 
You can put a piece of 1000 wet and dry sandpaper on a piece of glass and truly flatten out the rocker cover.
 
Thanks, Bob, that will be step 2.

I will reseal tonight and let you know in 2 days how it worked.
 
Froggy,

You had better get that thing back together and take it for a spin before sunday.... I am going riding on monday with or without you. :lol:

Regards,
 
Yes, Keith.

I actually resealed tonight. First try, I goofed up. I did not realize soon enough that I had to push the decomp valve lifter and therefore it would not fit and by the time I realized why about 3 minutes had passed, so I decided to clean up all the sealant and to restart.

Well, it's always harder the first time, right? :oops:

I got a bit of a mess on the outside, pretty much nothing on the inside, and not a lot of the sealant weeped out, just about 1mm at the most.

Torqued the screws back and then put the rad back and refilled it, but now I think I should not have put it back, because am I supposed to adjust the valves?

Just wondering if it was really necessary at that point.

Thanks again for all your help!
 
dsducati said:
I would readjust the valves and the side play on the rockers.
dan

Yes, not really optional, you have to do it. I never took the radiator out to do any of that, but it may be faster in the long run.
 
Thanks, I already have a #4 Allen key to sacrifice and grind down so that it can open the rad-side cover with the rad on. Although draining and removing the rad is a 3 minute deal, once the tank and shrouds are gone (like they are now).

I understood how to do the valve adjustement, but for the radial play on the rocker arms, I am a bit at a loss.

How the h... does one measure .15mm? Or is it just an idea, that there needs to be a little bit of play but almost nothing really?
 

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