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Aftermarket or custom Conrods Pistons pins

Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
seems to be a common question particularly for older bikes.

for the old bikes you can check the parts listings in service manuals on the left of the main page and then search for them at the munn racing fiche.

I've found some "no longer available parts" for my 02 by checking individually with husaberg dealers and parts suppliers all over the world.

for example Rick bozarth at boss offroad and Dan at moto exotica are great people to ask for this kind of stuff.

if I can't get piston or a rod for an older bike, even kwakas and suzis need rods :D I look first to the catalogs of prox and carillo for the rods and wossner for the piston specs.

http://www.pro-x.com/downloads/technical.pdf

http://wossneronline.com/2014_wossoner_motorcycle_pistons_catalog.pdf

carillo rods on page 64 Catalogs

what I do is measure the squish, piston to valve clearance and the Compression ratio, measure up the rod the big end pin and the piston including piston volume.

for a good example of checking the piston to valve clearance see Dr_Cs videos https://www.youtube.com/user/Massegossen I won't tell you which one its in you have to watch them all ;)

example of rod dimensions required thanks Wardog

3632d1394203806-conrod-drawings-450-rod-resize.jpg


the pins obviously you need OD and length but also oil gallery placement and weight should also be considered.

for balancing and crank welding info check here http://husaberg.org/mechanical/17329-balancing-80mm-650-crank.html

with the right information I am able to choose rod/pistons that work even if they are not listed for that model.

when the gallery is back up there will be most berg rods in 3d models and ISO drawings. http://husaberg.org/mechanical/17362-conrod-drawings.html

the hardest bit is usually the pin, Trick titanium will make you anything you want in steel or Ti .. for a price. Alpha bearings in the UK is another contact, there are heaps of people with pin grinders but most are old school and don't do the inter web, ask around locally.

If you need to modify a pin to make it work eg a proX pin kawasaki honda suzi yam or a Jawa pin you can have the ends ground cylindrically to the correct Diameter and also if needed have this done on an offset to adjust the required rod length or machine out the crankpin bore in the crank to achieve the same thing.

http://husaberg.org/mechanical/16703-husaberg-ktm-hybrid-engine.html

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this a good one, big end pin made from a rover piston pin http://husaberg.org/mechanical/7603-1994-501-conrod.html

if the big end oil holes do not align take a 3mm diamond coated spherical burr in a die grinder and grind a 1-2mm deep groove in the ID of the crank pin bore to connect the oil passages. if the oil passages require enlarging use diamond coated burrs, if the pin is too long grind it down, if the pin is too short split the difference either side and weld the pin ends.

its sometimes a little disheartening when parts are discontinued but Rods pins and Pistons are the bread and butter of single cylinder internal combustion engines and with the inter web resources we have, they are relatively easy to obtain.

.
 
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I couldn't find the thanks button on this tablet thingy.

Thanks!
 
me too

I have an idea to use carbon tow inside a cromoly tube

CF rods were tried in F1 before the ban .. interestingly the main issue in those engines was fatigue cracking of the crankshaft

aluminium rod shouldn't be too hard to make .. we just need more room inside the cases

BME Forged Aluminum Rods

rrproaluminumrods1.jpg


the MMX rods look fantastic as well but the price is pretty funny
 
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For those who doesn't already know.

MX Composites


FWIW
SuperMoto boys here in Sweden tried them a couple of years ago with some rumors of trouble with the bearing surface between conrod and big end pin, haven't heard anything of that from the Enduro riders.


Regards

/Nick
 
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no worries lads :D

JBS racing also tried the MMX ... plain big end failure was a problem

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perhaps less HP and a higher oil pressure may have worked

IHMO plain big ends are long overdue in dirtbikes

the new huskykatobergs have had pankl rods with plain big ends for a few years now.

401700


3_05.jpg
 
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Desiring to understand - What are the advantages / disadvantages of plain bearings? Are they in theory retrofittable?
 
mostly there is no big end cage to cause premature wear of the rod

something perhaps less obvious is that if they do fail the bore/ piston/rings and mains etc are usually still OK because there isn't as much hard metal debris

main disadvantage is they need more oil pressure that cannot be interrupted

they should be retrofitable but you'd have to closely examine a new 501 to see exactly how they did it. pin diam, clearance, oil pressure, flow rates. BMEP etc
 
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Thanks Bushie but I think I will unfortunately have to stick
to the smaller bits.:( and I plan to die sometime this century :eek:

I know of a project where many participants world wide are all making selected pieces for replica Brough Superior bikes, I think it was, but I bet that has it problems as well.

Th MX composite rod can be made to be used with plain bearing shells US$750 each, 5 off minimum:eek: Just need to turn up a one piece crank....:D adjust
the oil pump pressure....:spin:
 
some feedback from 2 USA ktm engine builders regarding the rods

KTMTalk.com - The Absolute BEST KTM resource on the planet

TravisD37 said:
You have several options in rods. The prox and hotrods replacements are both decent replacements. They don't have quite the longevity of the oem probably some where between 85-90% of the factory rod. These rods are the least costly @ $150 retail. The OEM rod is a great part but I think KTM loves them too much cost for the OEM rod is $425 retail. The last option is a Carrillo replacement rod. The have the same longevity if not more than the factory rod. Cost is better than OEM @ $325 for rod, bearing and pin. The really nice thing about the Carrillo is it can be rebuilt for $125. Plus Carrillo is owned by Pankl. They are making all the cranks for most of the newer 4 strokes.

DJH said:
Carillo has a bronze bush at the wrist pin which I prefer. Its a very nice piece
 
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I'm going to chime in here and hopefully won't sound too mushy, but I too am often out of my league reading Bushy's/Taffy's/Orangeberg's/ and Lineweaver's threads. However, the information is better than any other board I've ever been on. When I'm completely lost, I try to digest the information slowly. Fortunately, they all seem to provide enough info that I can grasp it after some time considering the posting. For that, Thanks!

Now, what part number do I order from Carrillo for an 05 650? . . . . .{{I kid.... sorta}}
 
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for carillo ....

80mm stroke rod drg attached, small end oil hole and big end side lube cutouts not shown, carillo will put their own in

stock rod is approx 378gm ask for 350gm make sure you ask for a std carburised rod without the steel insert and/or specify the maximum OD of the big end, stock has 2mm clearance in the cases, the 82mm crank has 1mm clearance

I used a ProX ktm 530 pin last time, needed to be shortened a tad and oil gallery modified .. all done with a grinder and a diamond coated burr

the stock rod rebuild kit for the 80mm crank is very good, $300 - 350 inc pin and bearing
 

Attachments

  • 628 rod.pdf
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rod to case clearance info for ordering rods

the 35mm pin carillos of Spanner and Dr_C came with replaceable inserts in the big end making the OD of the big end much larger than stock resulting in 0.65mm case interference. DR_C did welding and magician work to fit his in.

for the 628 and 644 need to specify carburised rods with the max OD or just send them these pics
 

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  • 628 carillo contact .pdf
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  • 628 rod clearence.pdf
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  • 644 rod clearence.pdf
    36.5 KB
for the 570's thumper wlll have 2 of them in stock soon if they are a direct fit (I hope!) I can tell you in a couple of weeks when I get it...
 
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