Fuel injector problem

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Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
23
Hi all.
My 2012 FE 570 recently started to run bad after some 30minutes of riding, getting worse every ride and sometimes not even starting when hot.
If I tried to decrease the input air-amount (clothing in airbox) making the bike running better and my idea was then that the problem should be fuel supply-problem.
I tried to clean the fuel injector by blowing compressed air at the same time as I connected a 9V battery to open the valve in the injector unit (tip from this forum :D ) but I wasnt able to make it clean...
I bought a new injector (a little bit expensive) and bike now running perfect again !

So - my question is if someone have any tip how I should have cleaned the injector ?

/PhaZer
 
Did you blow the air the right way, against flow direction (the "wrong way")? You need to push the **** back the way it came.
Whatever you did do, try to clean that injector with ultrasonic and maybe pour some injector cleaner in it before blowing through air. If you get it ok again you can use the new as a back-up/reference while using and maintaining the old one.


The fuel in Sweden is full of ethanol (I guess you's Swedish due to your name?). I drive a 570 -12 in Sweden too and Ljunggrens motor told me to use Q8's 98 as that is supposed to be the only fuel clean of ethanol. I don't know if it's true but I keep using it and no bigger problems yet.
I did install a Golan 10 micron filter upstream the injector and I clean the injector with air and 9V when the bike looses it's power. After air cleaning my front wheel is much lighter again! In addition I also bought an ultrasonic cleaner (can be used to a lot of things, handy to have) and a new injector as a reference. So every 45 hour I clean it with ultrasonic and check the performance with the new.

I know, I do a bit more then most guys.. But it keep my bike running good and with all the crap they add to the fuel in this country it will be cheaper in the long run than to buy new injectors.

As it can be quite fiddly to remove/attach the injector I have a small tip: the screws that hold the injector in place are phillips heads and they tend to go bad when used to much, specially if you, like me, are too lazy to remove the throttle body. The tip is to change them out with the two allan screws that holds the throttles plastic side cover in place.
So use the allan version for the injector and the phillips for the cover. Now it's easier to reach in with an allan key and remove/attach the injector!

Good luck.
 
Thx for comments.
I did blow backwards, but I didnt try ultrasonic cleaning (will try this so I have an injector in spare).
As you mentioned Jon - my injector holding screws were also bad and I needed to change them. Should have changed them into allen-screws as you suggested.
 
My bike is bogging at 5k+ revs, not terrible but definitely want to fix it.

I'm going to clean my injector.
Is there any picture that shows where exactly it is?
I have the FSM and it makes no mention of fuel injector only throttle body.

Also, do I just hook up a garden variety 9v battery to it when I get it out then spray with carb cleaner and blow with air?

2011 FE390
 
tens70.jpg


Injector is nr 4
128124110.gif

(Nr 26 is the infamous inline filter...)
 
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My bike is bogging at 5k+ revs, not terrible but definitely want to fix it.

I'm going to clean my injector.
Is there any picture that shows where exactly it is?
I have the FSM and it makes no mention of fuel injector only throttle body.

Also, do I just hook up a garden variety 9v battery to it when I get it out then spray with carb cleaner and blow with air?

2011 FE390

Do not use carb cleaner, carb cleaner can damage plastic in the injector as it's very harsh and for use on metal only. Use fuel injector cleaner and or throttle body cleaner spray.
 
Another option - buy a new injector and send your original to one of the injector houses like RC or someone else and get it flowed and cleaned. They can measure flow before and after and have very good cleaning procedures. then you can always have a ready to go spare.

https://www.rceng.com/

Also, use fuel stabilizer.
 
is it possible to ad the #26 filter to a 2010 ?

the part is only listed on the 2012 fische , but no partnumber is presented...
 
Yes you can. They came with -12 and was retrofitted on unsold -11s. They fit all models.
They were black 10 microns, but when they got warm they swelled and restricted the flow. So KTM changed them out to 20 microns that are grey to get around that problem. Part number 78141013190.
 
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Dont know. Check cable connections? Maybe you have an exposed cable somewhere that will short or cut under more strain/vibrations? I check my looms every 45h and most often find exposed cables. One known place is next to one of the bolts holding the fuel pump housing. The loom rubs against it.
 
Another thing to consider is bad fuel, I got bad fuel from the pump (in sweden too) and it started bogging worse and worse. Easy enough to drain the tank and pour some known fresh juice in there. I put the tank on its nose over night. Before reconnecting the quick coupling, prime it like five times to have fresh gas going through the pump aswell (push inside the quick coupling carefully to make it open).

Edit: Same happened to a friend too, not in the same area in sweden, so worth checking imho.
 
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thanks guys

will check the cables, notised that the bolts to the fuel-pump was grinded flat where it rubs on the cables there.
tha cabled are very flat and hard, so will cut it open and check.

will check the regulator by blowing with mouth and probably order a complete filter-kit aswell to be sure

I run almost always on Preem 95 or 98 oct from the local station that has wery much customers, so it should be fresh, but maybe fresh adhitives aswell.....

the local Q8 is only a unmanned pump, so no 98 there....

but I usually try to get some 98 a little now and then at least, to get a little cleansing, have been having issues with bad fuel before
got a crack in the piston on the FS650 a few years ago, only running that on 95 when 98 is not around....
 
just looked at mothly receipt, only 98 from the local tap...


checked the regulator, petrol taste nasty...
had resistance (could not blow) from one direction on the 2 intank hoses.
and free way from the other 2, feel correct.

just ordered 2 filterkit and some other things from karlströms, hopefully it arrives before the weekend.
 
I can only say it once, check the fuel, if you think the gas station does it right all the time, fantastic!
They dont here. Turn the tank upside down once and spew the fuel, this way you will MAKE SURE, sorry for the caps :)

I had 98 too at the time and thats the problem, as its not used much, had 95 and now bam bike works.



just looked at mothly receipt, only 98 from the local tap...


checked the regulator, petrol taste nasty...
had resistance (could not blow) from one direction on the 2 intank hoses.
and free way from the other 2, feel correct.

just ordered 2 filterkit and some other things from karlströms, hopefully it arrives before the weekend.
 
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I can only say it once, check the fuel, if you think the gas station does it right all the time, fantastic!
They dont here. Turn the tank upside down once and spew the fuel, this way you will MAKE SURE, sorry for the caps :)

haha, tank is empty now.
will throw the 6 liters I have left also, pitty I dont have any petrol-car to throw it in....
 

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