I'm running the Trail tech HID head light with two 35 watt bulbs. I want to stick a trail tech 35 watt flood beam on my helmet and power it trough my motorcycle. Question is what is my FE570 pumping out?
09 FE570 What's the wattage output?
- Thread starter fattirecolorado
- Start date
Re: 09 FE570 What’s the wattage output?
The bike generates 210W of Power from the Alternator. Divide by 12Volts and that is 17Amps.
I measured roughly 2.4Amps 29W for the Fan (not on all the time so may not need to include in total).
You have 2 x 35W Trailtech Headlights = 70W or 5.8Amps
Tail Light would only be 10Watts at a guess 1.2Amps
I measured from the fuel pump 2.5 Amps 30Watts (Fuse 2)
I measured from the EFI Unit and Injector 0.2~0.5 Amps 2.4~6Watts (Fuse 1). This varied when you increased RPM’s. I tested idle to mid range rpm.
Anything else I forgot to measure? Maybe charging the battery, say 3 Amps at a guess 36Watts
With the fan on that adds up to 181Watts and leaves 29Watts for your Helmet Light.
With the fan off that adds up to 152Watts and leaves 58 Watts for your Helmet Light.
I think you would just be OK but am not sure if the Bike Alternator puts out 210Watts at low speed riding. You could turn all you lights on and measure the battery voltage while your bike is idling. If it stays above 13.8Volts your OK.
The bike generates 210W of Power from the Alternator. Divide by 12Volts and that is 17Amps.
I measured roughly 2.4Amps 29W for the Fan (not on all the time so may not need to include in total).
You have 2 x 35W Trailtech Headlights = 70W or 5.8Amps
Tail Light would only be 10Watts at a guess 1.2Amps
I measured from the fuel pump 2.5 Amps 30Watts (Fuse 2)
I measured from the EFI Unit and Injector 0.2~0.5 Amps 2.4~6Watts (Fuse 1). This varied when you increased RPM’s. I tested idle to mid range rpm.
Anything else I forgot to measure? Maybe charging the battery, say 3 Amps at a guess 36Watts
With the fan on that adds up to 181Watts and leaves 29Watts for your Helmet Light.
With the fan off that adds up to 152Watts and leaves 58 Watts for your Helmet Light.
I think you would just be OK but am not sure if the Bike Alternator puts out 210Watts at low speed riding. You could turn all you lights on and measure the battery voltage while your bike is idling. If it stays above 13.8Volts your OK.
Re: 09 FE570 What’s the wattage output?
Great homework Davo!!!!!!!!!!!,
I would like to point out that when idling I have measured 14.5 volts at the battery.
So, all the wattages will stay the same, the amperages will go down accordingly. I would be cautious about running too close to the maximum output of the stator on a consistent basis. Usually alternators or generators can produce their "rating" for a peak period but not consistently.
Another thing to keep in mind, is the state of charge of the battery. It is my belief that since this bike is an electric start only, the reg/rectifier or battery charger is quite aggressive in charging the battery if it senses the voltage is low. In theory, if one were to start out with a battery that is low on charge, or is an old battery that is in constant need of a charge that is really going to take away from available power to the accessories, and in an extreme case could lead to voltage decay and shutdown of the bike until such accessories are reduced to the point that the alternator can keep up.
I will forward this thread to a contact I have at HBG NA and see what I get back as far as an answer goes on loading the stator. I'm pretty sure the stator is now a wet design which helps in cooling the stator under big loads.
Faittriecolorado: The TT lights have a low voltage cut off on them, you might want to check into that number, their tech people are usually very helpful. I appreciate your question as I wanted to to put 13 watt helmet lights on my helmet for night riding, a spot and a flood, and run them off the bike. I too have the X2 HID head light. I have not done much testing with it in the dark, how do you find the aim of the X2 using the stock fender pins? It seems to me it points a little too close to the front of the bike, but, like I said I have not tested it yet at night.
Great homework Davo!!!!!!!!!!!,
I would like to point out that when idling I have measured 14.5 volts at the battery.
So, all the wattages will stay the same, the amperages will go down accordingly. I would be cautious about running too close to the maximum output of the stator on a consistent basis. Usually alternators or generators can produce their "rating" for a peak period but not consistently.
Another thing to keep in mind, is the state of charge of the battery. It is my belief that since this bike is an electric start only, the reg/rectifier or battery charger is quite aggressive in charging the battery if it senses the voltage is low. In theory, if one were to start out with a battery that is low on charge, or is an old battery that is in constant need of a charge that is really going to take away from available power to the accessories, and in an extreme case could lead to voltage decay and shutdown of the bike until such accessories are reduced to the point that the alternator can keep up.
I will forward this thread to a contact I have at HBG NA and see what I get back as far as an answer goes on loading the stator. I'm pretty sure the stator is now a wet design which helps in cooling the stator under big loads.
Faittriecolorado: The TT lights have a low voltage cut off on them, you might want to check into that number, their tech people are usually very helpful. I appreciate your question as I wanted to to put 13 watt helmet lights on my helmet for night riding, a spot and a flood, and run them off the bike. I too have the X2 HID head light. I have not done much testing with it in the dark, how do you find the aim of the X2 using the stock fender pins? It seems to me it points a little too close to the front of the bike, but, like I said I have not tested it yet at night.
Re: 09 FE570 What’s the wattage output?
Excellent info guys. My fuel temperature sensor also reads battery voltage. I mounted it between the bar clamps and it's easy to read while riding. I get 14.5 no matter the rpm. 14.1/14.2 with the lights on and I run a 45 watt headlight. Coming home after dark with a tinted goggle lens it's easier to tell if my lights are on by watching voltage than seeing the headlight
Excellent info guys. My fuel temperature sensor also reads battery voltage. I mounted it between the bar clamps and it's easy to read while riding. I get 14.5 no matter the rpm. 14.1/14.2 with the lights on and I run a 45 watt headlight. Coming home after dark with a tinted goggle lens it's easier to tell if my lights are on by watching voltage than seeing the headlight
Re: 09 FE570 What’s the wattage output?
A voltmeter is a very good addition to any bike, especially when you add electrical stuff. As long as you are running about 13 volts or more with load then you will be fine. I forget what my bike shows when running (I have not added a voltmeter yet - it is sitting on my desk in front of me as I type), but I know my battery shows 12.9 volts at rest, before or after a ride, so it is being charged and staying charged.tahoeacr said:Excellent info guys. My fuel temperature sensor also reads battery voltage. I mounted it between the bar clamps and it's easy to read while riding. I get 14.5 no matter the rpm. 14.1/14.2 with the lights on and I run a 45 watt headlight. Coming home after dark with a tinted goggle lens it's easier to tell if my lights are on by watching voltage than seeing the headlight
Great info, homies ... thanks!
BTW, any idea what Dual Star Heated Grips will pull?
I've got them and am ready to mount them up - but am still just a bit freaked about the lack of a kickstarter.
Cheers! E-Ticket
BTW, any idea what Dual Star Heated Grips will pull?
I've got them and am ready to mount them up - but am still just a bit freaked about the lack of a kickstarter.
Cheers! E-Ticket
E-Ticket said:
FWIW
Remember that when the bike is off all electrical power to the fuse box is off. So as long as you tap into a ckt that is fed from the fuse box you will be fine.
And remember the bike will bump start on a dead battery.
Yup, I pulled power for the turnsignals off the plug from the fuse box. At the same time, I ran separate power for the heated hand grips -- they just waiting to be hooked up. Both go dead when the engine is off.DaleEO said:
But that does little for my peace of mind about being stuck at the bottom of the "Canyon From Hell."
We ride some pretty intense places.... (grin)
Thanks, DaleEO!
You will be fine if you monitor the voltage and it stays well above 12.6 V - ideally at least 13 volts, while running.E-Ticket said:
Of course though, as mentioned, you probably don't want to run at the max wattage for the alternator - not sure how long it can put out that wattage, although you would think that they would have tested it and been conservative about its power/thermal budget.
DaleEO said:
are you sure about that ?????
I am real keen to know if anyone has actually done it ??
I got stuck in the Dakar parc ferme after my battery was drained by the ASO GPS & Irritrack after sitting there for 3 days before the ceremonial start at Buenos Aries, no way in hell could I bump start it, no power to the fuel pump = no fuel.
Finally hooked up a spare battery once I checked out of parc ferme and first button away it went, I only just made it to my timeslot for the ceremonial start, all this in 100% humidity and 35C temp, man was I stressed!!!.................................christ I thought I was going to DNF before I even got out of parc ferme..............actually if happend to about 20 riders but only a few of us had EFI the rest on carbs just did a bump start.
So I woudl really like to know if anyone has bump started the new EFI bikes with a dead battery ????
And what is 'dead'?Gazza said:
I've been able to bump start my Ducati with a 'dead' battery, but the battery was still at about 10 volts - apparently enough to work the fuel pump. If a battery is truly 'dead' then I would say it would be well under 10 volts, and if it has gone that far there is a good chance it is ruined and won't hold a charge thereafter. If you *can* get the bike started, then don't count on using the e-start again with that battery.
If the battery is marginal - say in the 11 to 12 volt range, then it may recover with just some loss of lifetime.
The smaller the battery, the more vulnerable it is to having its lifetime shortened by being drained. Motorcycle batteries are very small. They also sit a long time between uses - sometimes with no float/trickle charge. My battery is now one year old. I anticipate that it will last about 3 more years if I am lucky, and at that time, if I still have the bike, I will replace it with something like the Turntech battery.
CodeMonkey said:
no charge, so not a flicker of light or horn or anything...........zipp.............but the battery did re hold a charge again no problem once it was recharged
Re: 09 FE570 What’s the wattage output?
There is two sets of holes on the TT headlight. I used the peg holes closer to the bike to point it upward. The aim is good for me at that position, spot beam seems to be bang on for the road, the flood beam is great for the trails. I still get some glare from the top of the fender with the flood beam.
DaleEO said:
There is two sets of holes on the TT headlight. I used the peg holes closer to the bike to point it upward. The aim is good for me at that position, spot beam seems to be bang on for the road, the flood beam is great for the trails. I still get some glare from the top of the fender with the flood beam.
Oh yeah, no fine adjustments on the TT headlight. But it does have them rubber fork straps, could do some fine tuning there with a little creative engineering.
Thanks for all the help guys, all I want is the HID flood lamp on the bike and helmet. Plus it looks like I got power left for the radiator fans if I run that way.
A temp gage sounds like a good idea, Does anybody know if one is made to display the voltage as well?
Running a ReKluse Pro, Hammer Head Shifter Blue tip, Blue Berg sprocket, blue rotor rock guard, Scott steering damper with riser and other little upgrades for the bike. Got the 70degree gas tank on order that replaces the rear frame of the bike. http://www.70degreeracing.com/
Thanks for all the help guys, all I want is the HID flood lamp on the bike and helmet. Plus it looks like I got power left for the radiator fans if I run that way.
A temp gage sounds like a good idea, Does anybody know if one is made to display the voltage as well?
Running a ReKluse Pro, Hammer Head Shifter Blue tip, Blue Berg sprocket, blue rotor rock guard, Scott steering damper with riser and other little upgrades for the bike. Got the 70degree gas tank on order that replaces the rear frame of the bike. http://www.70degreeracing.com/
"no charge" has no meaning to me; what was the voltage? If the light doesn't come on, that may be because of a relay which requires a certain voltage - the battery may still be alive enough to power the ECU/EFI.Gazza said:
I've had batteries drop down to seven volts and still be able to bump start the bike - granted, the bike was carbed and old tech, but it did have electronic ignition. It depends on the bike.
CodeMonkey said:
ok in this case the bike had no power to the EFI and it WOULD NOT bump start, once it was given a fully charged battery away it went no probs and alos the origional battery re-charged and held a charge over successive days with no issue
and no I didnt measure what the voltage was in the battery, remember this was in parc ferme with NO time and lots of stress to get to the start line, it was just plug in the extra battery and go !
even made it on prime time TV in Buenos Aries while I was trying to fix it :cry: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Perth-Aus ... 5347661288
so what I am keen to know is has anyone actually been able to bump start a '09-'10 EFI berg that has had insufficient charge to make it go on the button or to make the fuel pump actually pump fuel :?:
and no dont care what other bikes may do.............................just want to know re what '09-'10 EFI bergs will or wont do :wink:
I think they will not start with a dead battery. My last battery showed 12.9 volts but had a dead cell(I think). I bump started the bike down a hill I had just rode up. Third gear, about 100 yards and nothing but a 3 mile push home. New battery at home and it fired right up.
If I understand the electrical system, the power relay is what turns everything on. Could you jumper across the relay, then bump start? What voltage does the relay need to see before it switches?
If I understand the electrical system, the power relay is what turns everything on. Could you jumper across the relay, then bump start? What voltage does the relay need to see before it switches?
This does not answer Gazza’s bump start question but the Power Relay clicks in at 4.8Volts. It draws 0.12Amps (120mA) with 12Volts applied. So it should click in well before the EFI Fuel Pump starts spinning because it draws 2.5Amps.
There are 3 types of flat batteries.
1. Gazza’s flat battery that has been completely drained because something has been left switched on. This presents a low resistance when the Alternator try’s to charge and draws a lot of current. That would mean you would have to push hard to overcome that low resistance and get enough power to also spin the Fuel Pump.
2. tahoeacr’s flat battery that has something broken in the cells and presents a high resistance and draws little current from the Alternator. The Alternator would only have to provide enough to spin the Fuel Pump and turn Power Relay on. The Battery takes pretty much no current because it is truly knackered.
3. A flat battery that is just flat enough not to spin the Starter but still OK to spin the Fuel Pump and click a relay in. Maybe that is the type of flat Battery Dale had when he bump started (We call it a clutch start down here is Australia).
Looking at the Australian Wiring Diagram the Ignition Switch does not turn anything on. In the “OFF” position it just sends an Earth to the EFI Computer to stop the engine and in the “ON” position it connects an Earth to the Starter Button so the Starter Motor Relay coil circuit can be connected.
The Power Relay is actually turned on by contacts in the Voltage Regulator. The Contacts Short to Earth and complete the circuit to the Power Relay coil. I am not sure how those contacts in the Voltage Regulator get Switched to Earth. I think the contacts are actually an inbuilt Relay in the Voltage Regulator. That inbuilt Relay must energize when the Alternator starts producing power. This then turns the Power Relay on, which then sends Power to the EFI Computer via Fuse 1 (and sends power to Fuse 3 and Fuse 4)
Fuse 2 which is the Fuel Pump Fuse is not connected to the Power Relay. Fuse 2 gets power direct from the battery via the 20Amp Fuse in the Starter Relay.
I will do some more studying and try and find out why bump start does not work with Flat Batteries. I know it works with a good Battery. I am guessing you just can’t push it quick enough to produce enough power (or if you prefer to call it voltage) to make the Fuel Pump Spin.
There are 3 types of flat batteries.
1. Gazza’s flat battery that has been completely drained because something has been left switched on. This presents a low resistance when the Alternator try’s to charge and draws a lot of current. That would mean you would have to push hard to overcome that low resistance and get enough power to also spin the Fuel Pump.
2. tahoeacr’s flat battery that has something broken in the cells and presents a high resistance and draws little current from the Alternator. The Alternator would only have to provide enough to spin the Fuel Pump and turn Power Relay on. The Battery takes pretty much no current because it is truly knackered.
3. A flat battery that is just flat enough not to spin the Starter but still OK to spin the Fuel Pump and click a relay in. Maybe that is the type of flat Battery Dale had when he bump started (We call it a clutch start down here is Australia).
Looking at the Australian Wiring Diagram the Ignition Switch does not turn anything on. In the “OFF” position it just sends an Earth to the EFI Computer to stop the engine and in the “ON” position it connects an Earth to the Starter Button so the Starter Motor Relay coil circuit can be connected.
The Power Relay is actually turned on by contacts in the Voltage Regulator. The Contacts Short to Earth and complete the circuit to the Power Relay coil. I am not sure how those contacts in the Voltage Regulator get Switched to Earth. I think the contacts are actually an inbuilt Relay in the Voltage Regulator. That inbuilt Relay must energize when the Alternator starts producing power. This then turns the Power Relay on, which then sends Power to the EFI Computer via Fuse 1 (and sends power to Fuse 3 and Fuse 4)
Fuse 2 which is the Fuel Pump Fuse is not connected to the Power Relay. Fuse 2 gets power direct from the battery via the 20Amp Fuse in the Starter Relay.
I will do some more studying and try and find out why bump start does not work with Flat Batteries. I know it works with a good Battery. I am guessing you just can’t push it quick enough to produce enough power (or if you prefer to call it voltage) to make the Fuel Pump Spin.
Joined Aug 2009
1K Posts | 346+
Charters Towers, Australia
I know for sure the fuel line holds pressure so unless the battery is broken it should fire at least once and then struggle into life as the alternator spins faster and faster ? Dunno I break rocks for a living
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